All About Pocket Knives

Have a couple Case mini-copperlock CV knives whose blade condition has become slightly rusted to the point oil doesn't adequately remove it. Has anyone used the Case XX Eraser for carbon steel maintenance? If so, is it what I need or is there something better?

My understanding and use is that the eraser would remove rust that is in deep pockets
of a pitted knife. Light sanding of the blade with progressively higher grit sandpaper
should work if the blade just has some rust. For maintenance, consider adding
patina using lemon juice or mustard. ( If you use the blade often, just adding oil
to the blade would not be enough as maintenance unless you re-oil after each use )

Bob

My first choice is the graphite (“lead”) end of a pencil. The graphite is harder than rust but softer than steel so it will remove light rust without harming the metal. For a larger area use a carpenter’s pencil - the “lead” is wider so it won’t have to be sharpened as often. You can get one from your hardware store or lumber yard if you don’t have one already. Another good thing about the pencil lead is you can apply the point precisely to a very small area without damage to the surrounding area, whereas other methods are not as precise.

If that doesn’t do the job, then try an eraser (the eraser on your lead pencil will work). For larger areas the Case eraser, or simply a “Pink Pearl” eraser is good. Be advised erasers will remove the factory finish shine, but if you have more than just a few light rust specs you’re beyond that point already. Next step beyond those methods is probably Case Paste/Semichrome/Flitz, then 0000 steel wool, ultra fine grit sandpaper, and so on.

Try the pencil lead first!

Ken

Any rubber eraser, except an art gum eraser will scratch the steel, ruining a mirror polish.

Use some sandpaper 320 grit or so then sand to 800 and then drop the knife in a glass of coke l(it forces patina) overnight. Then rinse and oil joints. And carry rust free.

Bill DeShivs wrote: ↑Sun Nov 20, 2022 7:33 pm Any rubber eraser, except an art gum eraser will scratch the steel, ruining a mirror polish.

There would likely be no mirror finish if it were rusted as OP stated.

Appreciate the input, thanks to all.

I use Ken's #2 pencil suggestion for cleanup often. Supposedly it won't remove an etch either, if a blade happens to be rusted and etched.

I've used gun bluing on CV blades, seems to work well. ftd

I’ve used the pencil trick for years. Dad taught me that as a kid it works great.

I’d also suggest getting a good patina on those blades. I think some folks try to keep their carbon steel blades too shiny. It doesn’t work well imo.

Colonel26 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 21, 2022 7:03 pm I’ve used the pencil trick for years. Dad taught me that as a kid it works great.

I’d also suggest getting a good patina on those blades. I think some folks try to keep their carbon steel blades too shiny. It doesn’t work well imo.

I have never done anything to “force” a patina on my carbon steel knives. They get it the old fashioned way - they earn it!

I agree some folks obsess over trying to maintain shiny blades - it’s just not natural on a carbon steel EDC, IMHO. But in this age of stainless steel they think all blades should be shiny. Just carry and use the knife, wipe off your blade (on your pants leg if appropriate) after use and occasionally with an oily rag, especially if any light red rust appears. Your blades will start showing grey spots, and eventually those spots all grow together. The result is a nice, uniform rust resistant patina. Doesn’t happen overnight however so maybe that’s why the impatient among us force it. Personally I like the looks of a good natural patina!

Ken

Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Mon Nov 21, 2022 8:12 pm

Colonel26 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 21, 2022 7:03 pm I’ve used the pencil trick for years. Dad taught me that as a kid it works great.

I’d also suggest getting a good patina on those blades. I think some folks try to keep their carbon steel blades too shiny. It doesn’t work well imo.

I have never done anything to “force” a patina on my carbon steel knives. They get it the old fashioned way - they earn it!

I agree some folks obsess over trying to maintain shiny blades - it’s just not natural on a carbon steel EDC, IMHO. But in this age of stainless steel they think all blades should be shiny. Just carry and use the knife, wipe off your blade (on your pants leg if appropriate) after use and occasionally with an oily rag, especially if any light red rust appears. Your blades will start showing grey spots, and eventually those spots all grow together. The result is a nice, uniform rust resistant patina. Doesn’t happen overnight however so maybe that’s why the impatient among us force it. Personally I like the looks of a good natural patina!

Ken

The voice of reason, exactly. They are tools/implements. Let the patina develop naturally, and used on a regular basis and kept dry a carbon blade should never rust, i have knives that i have had for years, never had an issue. Just use 'em. And yes Ken i have worn thin the fabric on my work pants from wiping my blades down before putting them back in my pocket.

I agree that a patina is the way to go. This blade came out of a ruined Camillus Stockman that someone had refinished with a Dremel sanding drum.
I sanded the blade smooth, polished it shiny, then installed it in this knife.
Then I used it. I kept the blade clean and oiled with food-grade mineral oil, and cut a lot of food with it. I used it on apples, tomatoes, and other acidic foods. Within weeks I had this smooth brown patina that protects the metal from rust.
There have been times that I washed it after supper and put it in my pocket wet, and it still has no rust.
I am sure that blueing would work as well or better, but I don't want that on a knife I use on my food.
On other knives I have started a patina by wetting a rag with vinegar, then twisting it around the blade. It begins the process in streaks (sort of tie-dyed pattern), which looks more natural than a solid patina, at first. But it never looks right until the knife has been used a while after that. I only use that to kick-start the process, so to speak.
THIS is what a carbon steel blade should look like on an EDC knife, in my opinion.