All About Pocket Knives

A fellow member gave me a suggestion to start a new thread for this knife build so people can critique and give suggestions on how I can improve my knife repair techniques. I will explain what I am having trouble with, and hopefully fellow members can give me some advice.
I have had some great advice from members already and have changed some procedures. I am Just looking to get some more opinions.
Knife is a Rough Rider large lock back. I made my own scales from some cherry wood I had. I used my own pin stock. I think that is why the pins are a different shade of brass then the bolsters. I think I have improved the pinning on the scales but am still not a 100 percent happy with the outcome. They did look better when I first installed them. But I had to sand the scales after I tapped them with the hammer while peening the rocker pin. Sanding flattened the pin heads some. Other than that, I think I have improved some.
Thanks for looking
Nev

Hi Nev. The bolsters on most knives are nickel silver (NS) or steel. I try to use pin stock that matches the metal of the bolsters. Probably NS for the knife in your post. Second, I peen and polish the pin heads that will be on the outside the scales while the knife is apart and then peen the pins down from the inside, just tight enough, but not too tight. Be careful, if you peen the pins too tight, the scales may split at some time in the future. Also, file the pin heads on the inside of the liner down flush, so that the blades won't snag. Then reassemble the knife. I hope this helps.

Nev52 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 11, 2022 12:08 am A fellow member gave me a suggestion to start a new thread for this knife build so people can critique and give suggestions on how I can improve my knife repair techniques. I will explain what I am having trouble with, and hopefully fellow members can give me some advice.
I have had some great advice from members already and have changed some procedures. I am Just looking to get some more opinions.
Knife is a Rough Rider large lock back. I made my own scales from some cherry wood I had. I used my own pin stock. I think that is why the pins are a different shade of brass then the bolsters. I think I have improved the pinning on the scales but am still not a 100 percent happy with the outcome. They did look better when I first installed them. But I had to sand the scales after I tapped them with the hammer while peening the rocker pin. Sanding flattened the pin heads some. Other than that, I think I have improved some.
Thanks for looking
Nev
rr lockback kit.jpgrr lockback.jpg

I’ve done a few of these lockback kits. The bolsters are brass but it’s probably a little different composition than the pins you’re using. Your handle pins look good. Like a herb said, if you pre-peen the pins first then you just have to peen them on the back side of the liners. Another thing I do is slightly countersink the holes in the handle material (bone or wood) to allow for a little bit of room for the pin expansion. I use a 3mm ball bur for the countersink. And definitely make sure that you file the pins flush on the backside of the liners. If any pins are sticking up they might interfere with the movement of the blade.
Your knife looks good man, keep it up!
Jeff

You got some excellent advise from Herb and Jeff above Nev, and should you follow it it should prove to be accurate! Regarding your pin heads, I for one like them to be unnoticeable to the feel. I'm holding a knife right now and I'm running my fingers across the cover and 1 pin is sticking up and it's a bit jagged, whereas all the others can't be detected by my fingers, and I think that's how they're suppose to be! Nice work, you should be proud!

Nev, I’m not a knife mechanic. But I can say that I think you’ve done a fine job!

Thanks for the advice, Herb and Jeff.
I did pre peen the handle pins. I also did all the sanding before I put the knife together. It appears when I peen the inner handle pins, I pull the pin into the wood on the outside and flatten it. Then when I sand out the dents in the wood, I sand the pin heads down. Very frustrating.
Jeff what if I countersink the handles with a drill bit Like I do the bolsters? Would that be the same as the 3mm ball bur?

Regards
Nev

Thanks Marco and Colonel.
Very frustrating. Sometimes I have to walk away after taking it back apart numerous times. But I keep plugging at it.
Regards
Nev

Nev52 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 11, 2022 11:47 am Thanks for the advice, Herb and Jeff.
I did pre peen the handle pins. I also did all the sanding before I put the knife together. It appears when I peen the inner handle pins, I pull the pin into the wood on the outside and flatten it. Then when I sand out the dents in the wood, I sand the pin heads down. Very frustrating.
Jeff what if I countersink the handles with a drill bit Like I do the bolsters? Would that be the same as the 3mm ball bur?

Regards
Nev

Hi Nev. A few thoughts in response to the above. I. Regardless of whatever material I am using (bone, micarta, wood, etc,) I like to have all the sanding done completely before I pin the scales to the liners. For me, the easiest way to do this is to epoxy the scales to the liners, then sand. 2. If your pin heads are pulling into the wood when you peen them, I think you may be are over-tightening the pins. As I peen them, I stop periodically and test with my fingernail. If I can move the pin at all from either side with my fingernail, peen a little bit more. When you can't detect any play or movement in the pin at all with the "finger nail test", stop peening that one and move on to the next one. After you have been doing this for a while, you get an instinctive feel for how much peening is needed to just get the pin tight. I usually stop once on each one and it's almost always just about there. 3. I prefer to use a tapered reamer for for tapering bolster holes and scale pin holes (on the inside of the liners). I have an assortment of them that I use for different size holes and different purposes. I'll attach a picture. I remember learning this one years ago from the great master, Dale Orvet. I do use ball burrs for other things, but not this. I hope this helps. Let me know if any of this is confusing. These are just my methods and everyone has their own preferred ways of doing this stuff. Oh, and one other thing about those tapered reamers - turn them by hand, NEVER, NEVER put them in a drill or drill press!

Nev52 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 11, 2022 11:47 am Thanks for the advice, Herb and Jeff.
Jeff what if I countersink the handles with a drill bit Like I do the bolsters? Would that be the same as the 3mm ball bur?
Regards
Nev

You can use a drill bit if that’s what you have available. Like Herb said, for handle pins you only need to peen them enough to secure them in place. Light taps with a light hammer.
Jeff

And here’s a cool technique for getting the handles fitted to the liners. Dale sent me this info a while ago and I still use it from time to time.
https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/k ... es#p336081
(Scroll to the top of the page)
Jeff

Herb,
Thanks for the idea. What type of reamer is that?? Are they for a Dremel tool? Can you tell me where I can purchase them?

Thanks
Nev

Jeffinn wrote: ↑Fri Feb 11, 2022 1:46 pm And here’s a cool technique for getting the handles fitted to the liners. Dale sent me this info a while ago and I still use it from time to time.
https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/k ... es#p336081
(Scroll to the top of the page)
Jeff

Jeff,
Thanks for that information. After screwing up several times I got the idea of laying the old scale on my disc sander table to get the angle. Then I clamped a Stright edge to the table at that angle. I moved the new scale into the sander and took off wood to the line then flipped the scale and did the other side. I did that method years ago with expensive molding on a home renovation with some friends. Why didn't I remember that before I screwed up a lot of good maple I had? I will use your method when I don't have scales to use for the template.
Regards
Nev

Nice work!

Doesn't it feel GOOD to make (or repair) the knife you carry!
That is one that will be great to show off to other people!

Keep up the good work!

Nev52 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 11, 2022 2:09 pm Herb,
Thanks for the idea. What type of reamer is that?? Are they for a Dremel tool? Can you tell me where I can purchase them?

Thanks
Nev

Nev, I think one or two of them came with a set of burrs and I probably purchased that long skinny one by itself on ebay. Here's a link to one like it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/163021665949?_ ... %7Ciid%3A1

I bought some cheap, small drill chucks (from China) and I just leave the tapered burrs in the chuck. I called them reamers, but in searching on ebay just now, I got better results with "tapered fluted burr". For one of them, I had an old, worn out phillips head screwdriver that I was going to throw out, but I got the idea to grind the what remained of the head down to a point, jammed it into the hole in the back of one of the cheap chucks and its held up as a nice turning handle for a long time. Now I just need to find 2 more worn out screwdrivers to sacrifice.

Jeffinn wrote: ↑Fri Feb 11, 2022 1:46 pm And here’s a cool technique for getting the handles fitted to the liners. Dale sent me this info a while ago and I still use it from time to time.
https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/k ... es#p336081
(Scroll to the top of the page)
Jeff

Jeff, that "card trick" from Bob is fantastic! Thanks for sharing. I think it might also work with some of those fancy bolsters that are curved on the back.

Thanks Mike.

herbva wrote: ↑Fri Feb 11, 2022 4:10 pm

Nev52 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 11, 2022 2:09 pm Herb,
Thanks for the idea. What type of reamer is that?? Are they for a Dremel tool? Can you tell me where I can purchase them?

Thanks
Nev

Nev, I think one or two of them came with a set of burrs and I probably purchased that long skinny one by itself on ebay. Here's a link to one like it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/163021665949?_ ... %7Ciid%3A1

I bought some cheap, small drill chucks (from China) and I just leave the tapered burrs in the chuck. I called them reamers, but in searching on ebay just now, I got better results with "tapered fluted burr". For one of them, I had an old, worn out phillips head screwdriver that I was going to throw out, but I got the idea to grind the what remained of the head down to a point, jammed it into the hole in the back of one of the cheap chucks and its held up as a nice turning handle for a long time. Now I just need to find 2 more worn out screwdrivers to sacrifice.

Herb,
I ordered the burr from ebay. I have a pin vise somewhere and I think I have a lot of bits for my Dremel somewhere. Everything is in boxes in my barn. I hate having so much stuff packed away Once I get our house built, I will be able to locate all my tools.
Thanks for the help.
Nev

As far as the pins in the bolsters, that is fairly common with brass. If you look at Buck 110's, Schrade LB7's, and other similar knives you will often see that the brass pins don't match the bolsters. Yours look as good as most factory production knives with brass!
I have tried to make my handle pins artfully domed on some knives, and I love the way that they look, but they do feel strange in the hand. They feel best when they are sanded flush with the handles. I am still trying to get the hang of this too, and found that I had been trying to peen the pins too much. With the hole barely countersunk, the pin only needs to flare a tiny bit to hold firmly. Especially with brittle handle material like bone. Basically I let the epoxy hold the handles in place, with the pins being mostly for looks. They will help hold the scales some, but the epoxy does most of the work.
You have already shown a lot of resourcefulness, and improvement. Keep trying new techniques, and experimenting with it. You are on the right track.
And keep those pictures coming. I am loving them!

Thanks, Reverand, I will keep plugging at it until I get it right.
Nev

I took the advice from Jeff and Herb on countersinking the handles and peening. I just did this trapper and I think it is a big improvement in how the pins look. Also, I did not split the oak handles.
Thanks everyone for the advice on knife repair.

Nev

Fine work Nev!

Thanks Marco.

Nev

Lookin great!