All About Pocket Knives

A few months ago, I was browsing around looking to get an old knife of my grandfathers cleaned up. I stumbled across this place and basked in awe with what I had found. Some quick decisions and a package to MuskratMan later, I was staring at one of the most beautiful tools I had ever seen. I kept staring. And fondling. and thinking. I'm a handy person. I've worked with some knives before, mostly kit type stuff, but I'd never really thought about working on factory knives. It was absolute genius... take something, not that expensive, but well made, and make it something one of a kind.

That is when the problem started. I came back to AAPK and started reading. Then I came back again, and again, and again. I bought a few knives here and there.

First, there was the Case CV peanut, Amboyna Burl, somewhat sloppy filework and crappy photography. Tiny tiny back springs are the devil



I thought I was fine, no problems. I learned alot. Then my father saw it. He wanted one too. A trip to Ebay, a Schrade 12OT and some AAPK research on the fabulous Swinden Key later...

some really nice light curly Koa, and slightly less crappy filework and photography



But, my problem didn't go away. I found a great looking older case knife with some dried out, cracked up handles, perfect for my purposes. Some more burl, a bit of filework and off goes a Christmas gift for an old fiend of mine.





It's because of the talent and skill of everyone here that I keep coming back to see what's new, and learn new things. I'm kind of addicted now, and I don't think I'll be finished any time soon. I was debating if I should bother to post anything, but since your all responsible for killing all of my free time, I thought you should at least see what you've done.

looks like you did a very nice job. . welcome to the site.

They look good to me Adam Wish I had the talent to do that.

cool, got another one hooked!hahahahahahahahaha

looks like your coming along well!

I believe you have learned well Grasshopper. Nice Knives! Wish I could do that! Thanks for posting.

Hey that looks really nice and thanks a million for taking the time to share with us your love and addiction...Just remember that the sickness only gets worse..

Sunburst

Just absolutely excellent!

How did you get such a nice shiny finish on the scales? Just oil and wax or is that a cryanoacrylate?

D

Great lookin' knives.....nice filework, too.

Very nice Darksev...........................

When you get those filings perfectly aligned, you'll have her whipped! After only three knives, holly cow, your coming along well.

Drop into the new members forum and introduce yourself........................I think you have a great start.

Thanks guys I'm having a blast working on these. right now I just have to work on taking it s l o w when I'm filing. I get carried away and things don't quite line up right when I'm done, but such is learning.

the scales get nice and shiny pretty easily because most of what I use is stabilized wood. The Koa I ended up having to soak in CA for a while, it had some soft spots in it still. After that it's just down to 2500 grit and white rouge on a soft wheel. with no grinder or buffer I use a drill with a mandrel on it. it's a bit slow, but it works alright.

I'm going to have to try that. I'm not using a real buffer either. In fact, my first time buffing something this past Friday night. I only have a hard wheel (I think it's for sharpening) and some Green and some Brown compound. Not sure what either is.

I've got to learn about those buffers - the results are really nice.

Jaye

Slow is good when buffing! 1800 rpm or less..................

Gary,

I've seen a few kits that offer different sets of wheels, and different sets of compounds.

Which wheels and which compounds are the most useful? I'm going to pick some up for myself, but I'd hate to get sucked into buying something I don't need, just because of good marketing. (ie Koval's kits)

Maybe this should be a thread in Knife Repair?....Yes, I'm going to create one there.

Thanks,
D

I like loose muslin with jackson 51 for an overall compound. If I could only have one compound and wheel that would be it, great for polishing blades, bolsters, springs and handles and leave a nice finish without scratches. if possible I like to finish off with a loose hweel with scratchless pink. I also use a black grease based compound on a hard wheel for starting off on blades to get the finish started on a sanded down blade.

also on some woods I use wax on a VERY loose wheel to leave a nice smooth shiney finish.

MM, Hukk, Orvet, those guys are better qualified to answer that question than myself. I'm a novice with the knife work.

Thanks guys - I've started a thread in Knife Repair. Maybe we can create a tutorial.

Jaye

I use a 10 inch buffer that runs at 1725 RPM and I usually use mostly 6 and 8 inch wheels with loose mulin, if I go to a 10 inch it's rare and I use 2 or 3 wheels at once. The main reason for small wheels is control and mostly the surface area that the wheel is covering chages with wheel size. A 10 inch wheel at 1725 RPM covers about 5,500 RPM in the working edge. A small China made buffer 3600 RPM with a 10 inch wheel covers about 11,500 RPM in the working edge. This speed will rip up a loose muslin wheel fairly fast, but some people prefer them. I'll use the slower machine, mines an Industrial 1HP made by Jet and is 1725 RPM. I can change the effective speed merely by changing wheel size.

I use a lot of different wheels, one for each rouge AND one for ferrous metals and another for non ferrous metals. Some say that's overkill, but the first time you scratch a brass bolster with a wheel that was used previously on 416SS, you'll wish you did the same.

I buy a dozen 6 and 8 inch loose muslin wheels at a time and a dozen each of the 6 and 8 inch sewn, because I know I will use them and I get a small price break.

I use the black on sewn for aggressive cutting and use white and pink scratchless on loose muslin for finishing. I also use Tripoli rouges for brass or copper. I also use scotch brite 6 inch wheels, coarse for removing rust, fine for a brush finish. This is where you want to experiment and try different things. What works for one may not be what you want and most folks just use something because someone else does. I never used MM's Jackson 51, but I am going to try it because I want to see if it's a good one for me. Finishing is an area IMO, where you don't want to scrimp, this is where you want to make your product shine or a matte finish, whatever you are after!

I do not use cryanoacrylate, once with an uneven finish was enough. I do send out Koa and Buckeye and will be sending some nice Black Palm to be stabilized. I really like the look of stabilized wood, the palm will all be end grain cut to show the spots.

I use carnuba wax on oily woods like rosewoods, Desert Ironwood, Kingwood and several others. Stabilized wood is great, just buff and you're done.

I keep experimenting, that's my nature to try different methods, even modify some to suit my taste or a customers. Some may want a blade with a mirror finish, some a brushed look, others still may want an aged look. I may not use my buffer to finish a knife, I may use a cork belt with rouge on my buffer. A 100 different ways to do something, you just have to experiment - what works for you and what finished look makes you satisfied.

As far as getting wood goes, I buy a large boards and burls, stabilize, and sell enough so my wood is free. I'll take a picture of my wood storage area and post it, it's all free from selling and bartering.

EDIT: Buffing creates a fine powder in the air. Depending on what your buffing, a respirator is not a bad idea.

Really nice work Darksev I would like to tell you theres a cure, but there isnt Next thing you know, you will be looking for things to have a garage sell with so you can raise knife funds so you can get in even deeper

Really nice work Darksev and keep up the good work, now that you're hooked. I figure you must be, if they look that good already, gotta be hooked.

Here is a picture of my buffer. You can also use sanding drums, mandrels and other attachments as long as the threads match up or you have an adaptor. I think this one weighs about 50 - 75 lbs or so and runs very smooth. A comparable Baldor will run $620, this one was around $175 out the door on sale, normally $250 at Santa Rosa tool where I bought it.

The silver behind the Jet (made in China, but holds it's own ) is 6AL-4V Titanium alloy, I need to put that away.

Hukk wrote: I use a lot of different wheels, one for each rouge AND one for ferrous metals and another for non ferrous metals. Some say that's overkill, but the first time you scratch a brass bolster with a wheel that was used previously on 416SS, you'll wish you did the same.

I buy a dozen 6 and 8 inch loose muslin wheels at a time and a dozen each of the 6 and 8 inch sewn, because I know I will use them and I get a small price break.

I agree, you can't have too many wheels.

Dale