All About Pocket Knives

Do you guys polish the stag handles that you put on your knives or leave them in their natural state?
I’m working on a knife for a customer and I’m leaning towards the natural finish but it seems like the white sections where there was hafting done would need to be polished.
Let me know what you guys do.
Thanks.
Jeff

I have always polished mine BUT I haven't been doing this long enough to try anything else.
I can sure 'nuff see how a natural finish sure would look nice.

Anything where I haft material away gets polished. The "bark", I do try to put a little sheen on, but not buff it too much.

glennbad wrote: ↑Tue Oct 06, 2020 2:57 pm Anything where I haft material away gets polished. The "bark", I do try to put a little sheen on, but not buff it too much.

I am with Glenn.
Every place that I haft I sand as fine as I can them polish.
If the bark is smooth I will run it lightly on a fine polish wheel with No Scratch Pink compound, then wax it with bar Carnuba wax on a loose muslin wheel.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the input.
Jeff

I use a pink no scratch as well and polish the entire piece. If the stag is good quality the no scratch should only improve the appearance.

btrwtr wrote: ↑Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:51 pm I use a pink no scratch as well and polish the entire piece. If the stag is good quality the no scratch should only improve the appearance.

Thanks Wayne.
Jeff

Jeffinn wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 11:16 pm

btrwtr wrote: ↑Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:51 pm I use a pink no scratch as well and polish the entire piece. If the stag is good quality the no scratch should only improve the appearance.

Thanks Wayne.
Jeff

I have also used the Case Polishing cream and Flitz with good results, and both of these i have used to buff up wooden scales with great results, hope this helps.

cudgee wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 11:45 pm

Jeffinn wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 11:16 pm

btrwtr wrote: ↑Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:51 pm I use a pink no scratch as well and polish the entire piece. If the stag is good quality the no scratch should only improve the appearance.

Thanks Wayne.
Jeff

I have also used the Case Polishing cream and Flitz with good results, and both of these i have used to buff up wooden scales with great results, hope this helps.

Good to know! I haven’t used either of those products so I’ll have to add them to my supplies.
Thanks.
Jeff

Jeffinn wrote: ↑Fri Oct 09, 2020 10:47 pm

cudgee wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 11:45 pm

Jeffinn wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 11:16 pm

Thanks Wayne.
Jeff

I have also used the Case Polishing cream and Flitz with good results, and both of these i have used to buff up wooden scales with great results, hope this helps.

Good to know! I haven’t used either of those products so I’ll have to add them to my supplies.
Thanks.
Jeff

Yeah, i was just doing some reading on buffing and polishing, mainly wood, and a common theme was the same principle as using a cut and polish cream that you use on your car. I have a friend who has a very successful antique furniture restoring business so went and asked him, he said that the principle is the same, cutting back and polishing with like a very fine grit sand paper. So i gave it a try, and works very well, but if you use a drill or dremel on slower revs you can get a really high gloss finish. He also gave me another tip that you may find useful. if you want to clean up any wooden scales, PH neutral leather cleaner or saddle soap as long as it is PH neutral works really well. It is the same principle as renwax, not acidic nor alkaline, you can use 0000 steel wool if they are really dirty, then a rag, or just a rag if they are not too dirty. You will not need both the case or the flitz cream, i just happen to have both, but my preference would be the flitz if you are going to purchase just one.