All About Pocket Knives

I've got lots of different gadgets and stones to sharpen knives. I've also got knives of every different material. I will use different things, for different knives and different objectives. I do agree with your friend on learning to use a "stone". Also, I agree with doing it on cheaper knives, first. But...if I were to say, which one gives "the most bang for the buck"...I'd have to go with this 4 sided diamond sharpening block. I have one down at the ranch and one, here at the house. I find the diamonds help cut harder blade materials...especially like your D2.
https://www.amazon.com/Sharpening-Diamo ... 475&sr=8-3
As a side note...don't get too frustrated at first. I find, the first time I sharpen a knife almost always takes longer. I'm guessing my angle of sharpening rarely coincides exactly with the angle it was originally sharpened. After it gets sharpened to "my angle" touch-ups are pretty easy. Have fun...I find sharpening knives to be somewhat Zen-like and therapeutic. Welcome to AAPK!

This is all you need. Similar to the one doc posted. But longer and just two grits and it stores in it’s handle. I really like the diamond stones because they stay flat.

Hold it like a stick and try to shave off a thin curly Q. Try to keep the angle consistent. Color the edge with a sharpie to see were you are contacting the stone. Count the strokes to keep both sides the same.

Unlike Doc and eviled above, I just can't keep a consistent angle trying to freehand. Many do it well and say it takes practice. Me, I just want a sharp knife and an easy way to get there. I use a Lasky Turnbox TB-2D2C. Gives me the option of consistent 20° or 25° angles. $26 on Amazon. Extremely happy with it.

Hope you find something that works for you.
And welcome aboard!!

You can spend anywhere from $5 for a simple used carborundum (man made) stone to hundreds of dollars for complex angle-guided “foolproof” contraptions with clamps and diamond stones. All of them will work assuming you have the will and patience to learn how to use them. For beginners, regardless what you choose start with a carbon steel blade to learn on - they’re easier to sharpen than stainless steel.

Freehand sharpening takes some patience and practice to learn. Even better (but not necessary) if you have an experienced person to teach you. Once learned, it’s like riding a bicycle - you’ll have a useful skill for life. Sharpening “systems” have guides, clamps, levers or similar, but you still have to read and follow the instructions to learn how to use them, and be willing to spend the time to set them up. They’re generally more expensive. The diamond “stick” recommended above by eveled looks like a good buy to me for a starting place, but it’s a freehand solution. The Lansky System is the choice of many. The Work Sharp Guided Sharpening System is more expensive (~$50) but offers a combination of diamond stones, ceramic rods, and simple angle guides that help take the guesswork out of freehand sharpening.

Unless you have a lot of knives to sharpen and/or lack the patience required, you’re probably better off to pay someone to sharpen your knife. JMO

Ken

I use the basic Lansky three Stone system that I purchased years ago. It’s quick and easy and helps get the angles right.
Jeff

Welcome here, Beinglis23.

In my opinion a stone is the best bang for your buck. And if you can buy one you can buy 10. Used stones are inexpensive.
Comparatively, so are new ones.
They do require some set up though. You must set them flat.
If you decide on using a stone I recommend the two sided, 8 inch, Norton Crystolon, as your first stone.
If you want to do your self a real favor, treat your self to the 800 grit water stone.
I hope you give stones a try. I recommend water on both stones. You can learn this skill.

I sharpen my knives over an Arkansas stone and then polish on a leather strop. It doesn't cost much to get these items, but just know that those S30V and S35V steels take a lot more hand work. So you gotta be patient and take your time.

My advice: try to learn free-hand using a carborundum stone. You can even get an ultra-cheap two-sided stone from the Dollar Tree for one buck. Experiment on some cheap knives that you don't mind ruining. Perhaps even buy some of those cheap wedges to get started.
If you can learn it, you have acquired a valuable skill. Buy some better stones and use them. If you just cannot get the hang of it, then buy a Lansky or other guided system.

I have used cheap carborundum stones for most of my life. My Dad showed me how to sharpen free-hand using some cheap import knives from Trade-Day. Once I could sharpen one of those, I was trusted to sharpen good knives.

I still use these stones at times, but recently I bought a used diamond stone and I do love using it. I will probably get some in different grits at some point.

Sharpening is great, but what everyone should really have is a good leather strop. I've found that often when I would've otherwise gone to sharpen, all the knife really needed was a strop. It's FAR more effective than I thought it would be and you don't shorten the life of your knife by sharpening too often.
Plus, you can find good ones cheap, no need to spend a lot unless you just want to for something special. I've been using this one with excellent results. I leave it clamped down and covered for when I need it, but you can use it held in hand, resting the end on a table.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWMRC15/re ... =UTF8&th=1

Jeffinn wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 3:39 pm I use the basic Lansky three Stone system that I purchased years ago. It’s quick and easy and helps get the angles right.
Jeff

Yep - easiest system I've used. It's failsafe - can't mess up an angle.

I purchased an Idahone ceramic rod angled sharpening set last year, i am very happy with it, a good entry level sharpener. Look up there website, they have a couple of good instructional videos.

Lansky1 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 1:44 am

Jeffinn wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 3:39 pm I use the basic Lansky three Stone system that I purchased years ago. It’s quick and easy and helps get the angles right.
Jeff

Yep - easiest system I've used. It's failsafe - can't mess up an angle.

I've tried those. Can never seem to get it clamped just right. Hate it.

But that's me. Jeff, Lansky1, you're not the only one who likes those systems, so it has to be my incompetence

I like the Lansky system, but it doesn't work as well with some blades sizes and shapes. Lately I've been using a Sharpmaker and find it's pretty easy to use.

From my experience (I think I've worn out 6 or 7 sets of Lansky stones) ... I've found the only blades the Lansky won't work on are super duper thin dainty pen blades and anything with a really aggressive swedge grind on the top edge (if the blade is wide enough, can work around that too). Otherwise, it works perfectly (for me).

Steve Warden wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 1:01 pm Unlike Doc and eviled above, I just can't keep a consistent angle trying to freehand. Many do it well and say it takes practice. Me, I just want a sharp knife and an easy way to get there. I use a Lasky Turnbox TB-2D2C. Gives me the option of consistent 20° or 25° angles. $26 on Amazon. Extremely happy with it.

Hope you find something that works for you.
And welcome aboard!!

Same here! I am very happy with my Lansky Turnbox. I don't really understand the different models. but I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Tur ... B000B8FW0E
Also, I have an old wide leather belt that I use for a strop. I put some green polishing compound from Harbor Freight on the rough (unfinished) side of the belt, and I attach the belt to a drawer pull or a door knob.

TwoFlowersLuggage wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 6:10 pm

Steve Warden wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 1:01 pm Unlike Doc and eviled above, I just can't keep a consistent angle trying to freehand. Many do it well and say it takes practice. Me, I just want a sharp knife and an easy way to get there. I use a Lasky Turnbox TB-2D2C. Gives me the option of consistent 20° or 25° angles. $26 on Amazon. Extremely happy with it.

Hope you find something that works for you.
And welcome aboard!!

Same here! I am very happy with my Lansky Turnbox. I don't really understand the different models. but I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Tur ... B000B8FW0E
Also, I have an old wide leather belt that I use for a strop. I put some green polishing compound from Harbor Freight on the rough (unfinished) side of the belt, and I attach the belt to a drawer pull or a door knob.

And only $20 on Amazon. Great deal!

I’ve tried about everything. Some like Lansky systems as mentioned already, I don’t, too many variables and for me at least it’s too easy to round over the end of a clip blade.

I prefer and recommend what I learned in as a kid, a stone of some sort. If you’re not establishing a bevel, get a medium stone, sharpen, and then straight to a strop or steel. I have Arkansas stones but the one that I use more than anything is this little medium grit diamond hone. It’s got enough grit that I can make a bevel, but Is fine enough it leaves a good edge. I don’t remember how much it cost, but not much.

I touch up a blade on it and then strop. It doesn’t take bout two or three passes.

Steve Warden wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 7:44 pm

TwoFlowersLuggage wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 6:10 pm

Steve Warden wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 1:01 pm Unlike Doc and eviled above, I just can't keep a consistent angle trying to freehand. Many do it well and say it takes practice. Me, I just want a sharp knife and an easy way to get there. I use a Lasky Turnbox TB-2D2C. Gives me the option of consistent 20° or 25° angles. $26 on Amazon. Extremely happy with it.

Hope you find something that works for you.
And welcome aboard!!

Same here! I am very happy with my Lansky Turnbox. I don't really understand the different models. but I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Tur ... B000B8FW0E
Also, I have an old wide leather belt that I use for a strop. I put some green polishing compound from Harbor Freight on the rough (unfinished) side of the belt, and I attach the belt to a drawer pull or a door knob.

And only $20 on Amazon. Great deal!

I like the looks of those. I had one called a SteamBoat sharpener that was similar. They were great for a quick touch up, although I use more like. 15° angle, they worked great.

The more I use my Work Sharp Guided Sharpening System, the better I like it. Quick, easy, no complicated set up or clamps. https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/sha ... ng-system/ The angle guides are built in (different angle guides can be used - they just drop in place and are held by strong magnets).

I found one for less than the Work Sharp site sells them.

Ken

Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 11:22 pm The more I use my Work Sharp Guided Sharpening System, the better I like it. Quick, easy, no complicated set up or clamps. https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/sha ... ng-system/ The angle guides are built in (different angle guides can be used - they just drop in place and are held by strong magnets).

I found one for less than the Work Sharp site sells them.

Ken

I have one of those too and I like it. The pivoting stone mount is not just a gimmick. It actually works with some very brief practice. One thing that I always had problems with was getting the tip sharp on a blade that curves near the tip. Like a Clip or Spear blade.

This little apparatus solved that problem for me. It's a good product.

Railsplitter wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 11:44 pm

Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 11:22 pm The more I use my Work Sharp Guided Sharpening System, the better I like it. Quick, easy, no complicated set up or clamps. https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/sha ... ng-system/ The angle guides are built in (different angle guides can be used - they just drop in place and are held by strong magnets).

I found one for less than the Work Sharp site sells them.

Ken

I have one of those too and I like it. The pivoting stone mount is not just a gimmick. It actually works with some very brief practice. One thing that I always had problems with was getting the tip sharp on a blade that curves near the tip. Like a Clip or Spear blade.

This little apparatus solved that problem for me. It's a good product.

I had trouble with the curve on spay blades when freehand sharpening, but finally mastered it. The pivoting stone capability on this makes it easy - would have saved a lot of blades I ruined while learning to freehand. And you can just lock it in place if you want for straight edges, like a sheepsfoot or wharncliffe blade. Pretty much foolproof for those who haven’t mastered freehand.

The angle guides take the guesswork out of that too. Here’s a picture with the 17 degree angle guides in place.

Ken

Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Mon Aug 03, 2020 12:29 am [quote=Railsplitter post_id=836957 time=<a href="tel:1596411862">1596411862</a> user_id=3453]
[quote=Mumbleypeg post_id=836952 time=<a href="tel:1596410562">1596410562</a> user_id=18569]
The more I use my Work Sharp Guided Sharpening System, the better I like it. Quick, easy, no complicated set up or clamps. https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/sha ... ng-system/ The angle guides are built in (different angle guides can be used - they just drop in place and are held by strong magnets).

I found one for less than the Work Sharp site sells them.

Ken

I have one of those too and I like it. The pivoting stone mount is not just a gimmick. It actually works with some very brief practice. One thing that I always had problems with was getting the tip sharp on a blade that curves near the tip. Like a Clip or Spear blade.

This little apparatus solved that problem for me. It's a good product.
[/quote]

I had trouble with the curve on spay blades when freehand sharpening, but finally mastered it. The pivoting stone capability on this makes it easy - would have saved a lot of blades I ruined while learning to freehand. And you can just lock it in place if you want for straight edges, like a sheepsfoot or wharncliffe blade. Pretty much foolproof for those who haven’t mastered freehand.

The angle guides take the guesswork out of that too. Here’s a picture with the 17 degree angle guides in place.

Ken
[/quote]

I agree Ken. That’s why I like smaller hand held hones so I can pívot them to match the curve of the blade. I can see how this system would make it easier.

Seems like a consensus is forming. I was a water and oil stone guy until this arrived and the field unit is a great back up.
Bill

What about something to sharpen recurves? I'm having a ton of trouble not only with hawkbills/pruning knives, but also some tactical designs with recurve blade profiles, like the Kershaw Chive for example. The round ceramic stone on the Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener will do great if the edge is in good shape, and not blunt, but if the edge is blunt, or in rough shape, it's not aggressive enough?

Something like the DMT diamond tapered rods?

cody6268 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 09, 2020 12:40 am What about something to sharpen recurves? I'm having a ton of trouble not only with hawkbills/pruning knives, but also some tactical designs with recurve blade profiles, like the Kershaw Chive for example. The round ceramic stone on the Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener will do great if the edge is in good shape, and not blunt, but if the edge is blunt, or in rough shape, it's not aggressive enough?

Something like the DMT diamond tapered rods?

I don't have a recurve but for hoof knives I use a fine chain saw file for course and then a ceramic rod. The Oregon chain saw files are all right for hoof knives but I would look for something higher quality for your Kershaw. The course side of the Worksharp Field always surprises me though. I rarely go to the plates once I have my edge.
Bill