All About Pocket Knives

I finally decided to stick my neck out and make a whole knife. Up to this time, I have made replacement blades, springs, bolsters, liners, and rehandled a lot. But never all the parts on the same knife. I recently did a rebuild on an old Jaeger Moose that I pictured in this thread. This turned out to be a dress rehearsal for the new knife. I have always like the Moose pattern, and have old ones such as a Wilbert and the Jaeger from the early 20th century, as well as a new GEC which I just got a few months ago. So a 4 1/4" Moose was decided on. The specs are as follows: blades and springs-1095 high carbon 1/8" thick (this is the same thickness blades as the Wilbert), brass liners, nickle silver bolsters 1/8" thick soldered to the bolsters. The blades are the Moose standard large spear, and large clip, both with double swedges and long pulls. I got an assortment of bone from Culpepper to try as I had never used their product before. It is some good stuff and reasonally priced too. This bone is called Ginger Ale Winterbottom. Anyway it has a lot of issues as you can see. There were a many things learned to apply to the next one, if that ever happens. Main thing learned---making a two blade slip joint folder is a lot of work, and I don't have nearly enough power equipment, so most all of it was done by hand. Now I know something of what the old craftsman who made knives 100 years ago mostly by hand were doing.

Template made for drilling the liners, and springs. Stack drilling the liners. Parts all cut out. First test assembly. Finished Top view

Very nice job OLDE CUTLER! Turned out quite nice.

VERY nice....
I need to try one of those.
Beautiful work!!

If that is your first attempt at making an entire knife by hand, then you are well on your way. You mentioned it has "issues". Well, I don't see any. That is a fantastic looking knife, and I'm sure it functions just as well. Wow!!!

This has always been my pet peeve: Handle to Bolster fit. This right here is as good as it gets. Supersize the photo and you can see how tight that fit is. The edge of the handle is right up against the bolster.

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Mike

Great job!

XX Case XX wrote:If that is your first attempt at making an entire knife by hand, then you are well on your way. You mentioned it has "issues". Well, I don't see any. That is a fantastic looking knife, and I'm sure it functions just as well. Wow!!!

This has always been my pet peeve: Handle to Bolster fit. This right here is as good as it gets. Supersize the photo and you can see how tight that fit is. The edge of the handle is right up against the bolster.

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Mike

If you had it in your hand, issues: #1 Pulls are very uneven. I have been cutting those with a Dremel tool with a thin cutoff wheel guided by a straight edge. I need to find a completely different way to do that. #2 Clip blade rubs on frame. I did not bend the liners as I should have to make the "blade well" more open at the top. #3 Both the blade edges touch the spring slightly over the pin boss when allowed to "snap" shut, leaving a blunt mark on the cutting edge. As I carry and use it, subsequent sharpenings will cure this by moving the cutting edge back away from the spring. #4 There is a tiny crack in the bone on one end, not thru the pin hole, but off to the side. May have been a tiny flaw in the bone I didn't see. #5 Back of the blade does not not line up with handle with blade open. I think I added too much to the back edge of the blank and didn't bring this down before assembly. #6 Obvious to all, the pins are visible. I hammered and hammered and hammered the pins after tapering the pinholes, and after finishing they are still visible. This is Jantz 1/8" thick nickle silver bolster material, and Jantz 3/32" nickle silver pin stock. Should be the same spec metals.

OC, that looks great!!
You are your own worst critic. You know all of the issues, but they are not visible in the photos, and with a few months of pocket carry the patina will cover them.
I have had the same problem with Jantz nickel silver, not being able to hide the pin as it is a different color.

Fantastic job on your first knife.
What’s next??

That's amazing OC!!! Did you do your own heat treat on the metals? Is the spring a different heat treat?

Doc B wrote:That's amazing OC!!! Did you do your own heat treat on the metals? Is the spring a different heat treat?

Blades and springs are cut from the same piece of 1095 and I heat treated them with a MAPP gas torch the same.

Tony_Wood wrote:OC, that looks great!!
You are your own worst critic. You know all of the issues, but they are not visible in the photos, and with a few months of pocket carry the patina will cover them.
I have had the same problem with Jantz nickel silver, not being able to hide the pin as it is a different color.

Fantastic job on your first knife.
What’s next??

Working on a Valley Forge jack that needs a new blade made, and this Buck 301 that I am going to use the blades and springs to build a custom something. The Buck must have had some disaster befall it, as it is a mess. Liners and handle material are ruined.

That is superb! You sir are a true craftsman. I see hours of fitting and finishing in that knife and there isn't another like it in existence. You have my respect as an innovator.

Love it! I have a ton of respect for you doing most of it by hand operations. Makes it that much more satisfying,

OC what a fabulous job. Made from scratch. First one. What an impressive knife. Absolutely amazing!!! Wow am I impressed. Does not look like a first knife.

Just plain amazing! That would be quite a handful. OLDE CUTLER offhand I'd say you've got talent!
Treefarmer

That's the best looking bone that has been posted in a while. It suits that knife perfectly. Good job!

That's really nice looking!

That's a great looking USA made knife!