All About Pocket Knives

I came across the remnants of a dual bladed pen knife switchblade this weekend. I don't think it's salvagable but correct me if I'm wrong. I was hoping for advice on how to disassemble it to see what made it tick. Its very rusted/corroded. I was thinking on soaking the metal parts in vinegar to get it apart, but I'm open to any suggestions.

Any idea what make/model it was? It's about a 2 1/2" pen knife. Looks like each blade was a opened by pressing a separate button on each side.

tinkerer wrote:I came across the remnants of a dual bladed pen knife switchblade this weekend. I don't think it's salvagable but correct me if I'm wrong. I was hoping for advice on how to disassemble it to see what made it tick. Its very rusted/corroded. I was thinking on soaking the metal parts in vinegar to get it apart, but I'm open to any suggestions.

Any idea what make/model it was? It's about a 2 1/2" pen knife. Looks like each blade was a opened by pressing a separate button on each side.

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I think you are right in saying it is not salvagable. I use a product called Kroil on items like this. The molecules of Kroil will penetrate into spaces as small as one millionth of an inch. I put some into a small plastic bag and let the knife sit in it for 24 hrs.

OLDE CUTLER wrote:I think you are right in saying it is not salvagable. I use a product called Kroil on items like this. The molecules of Kroil will penetrate into spaces as small as one millionth of an inch. I put some into a small plastic bag and let the knife sit in it for 24 hrs.

Thanks! I'll try that.

I also think that one may be gone, but it is still worth taking apart to see how it's put together. I use a product called Evaporust. it does a good job on rust removal, IMO.

How are those covers? They look to be in one piece...

I agree, it's probably not salvageable...but to further answer your question. Now that the covers are off, it's easier to get to the three primary pins, that hold the knife together. They have been "peened" or hammered, to make them wider, on the ends, to originally hold things together. You can cut one side of the pins off and "tap" them out. That may be easier said than done...with the corrosion...so that initial soaking will help either way. Once you remove the three pins..on most traditional folders...it will come apart, in to it's separate components. I confess I don't know what else is within an automatic and someone else may come along and tell you there is more holding things together, than what I've said. Since it would appear you like to "tinker"...I'd probably pull it apart, too. I don't think you've got too much to lose...and you'll learn something in the process.

glennbad wrote:I also think that one may be gone, but it is still worth taking apart to see how it's put together. I use a product called Evaporust. it does a good job on rust removal, IMO.

How are those covers? They look to be in one piece...

Thanks for the Evaporust suggestion. I'll look into that also. The covers are in one piece but severely cracked on one and possible signs of breaking down. I'm not sure about that.

Doc B wrote:I agree, it's probably not salvageable...but to further answer your question. Now that the covers are off, it's easier to get to the three primary pins, that hold the knife together. They have been "peened" or hammered, to make them wider, on the ends, to originally hold things together. You can cut one side of the pins off and "tap" them out. That may be easier said than done...with the corrosion...so that initial soaking will help either way. Once you remove the three pins..on most traditional folders...it will come apart, in to it's separate components. I confess I don't know what else is within an automatic and someone else may come along and tell you there is more holding things together, than what I've said. Since it would appear you like to "tinker"...I'd probably pull it apart, too. I don't think you've got too much to lose...and you'll learn something in the process.

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I am a bit of a tinker, but I don't want to damage something if it's salvagable. Thanks!

tinkerer wrote:

glennbad wrote:I also think that one may be gone, but it is still worth taking apart to see how it's put together. I use a product called Evaporust. it does a good job on rust removal, IMO.

How are those covers? They look to be in one piece...

Thanks for the Evaporust suggestion. I'll look into that also. The covers are in one piece but severely cracked on one and possible signs of breaking down. I'm not sure about that.

Doc B wrote:I agree, it's probably not salvageable...but to further answer your question. Now that the covers are off, it's easier to get to the three primary pins, that hold the knife together. They have been "peened" or hammered, to make them wider, on the ends, to originally hold things together. You can cut one side of the pins off and "tap" them out. That may be easier said than done...with the corrosion...so that initial soaking will help either way. Once you remove the three pins..on most traditional folders...it will come apart, in to it's separate components. I confess I don't know what else is within an automatic and someone else may come along and tell you there is more holding things together, than what I've said. Since it would appear you like to "tinker"...I'd probably pull it apart, too. I don't think you've got too much to lose...and you'll learn something in the process.

.

I am a bit of a tinker, but I don't want to damage something if it's salvagable. Thanks!

I'm with you there!

The blades are not held in by pins- they use bushings that are smaller on the ends-where they go through the liners. You can't remove the blades (properly) without disassembly of the knife body.
There is nothing really inside the knife, other than the kick spring. Everything else is on the outside of the liners.
The knife body is held together with flush pins through what would be called the backspring, or spine.

Thanks Bill.

It does not appear to be salvageable, but don't soak it in vinegar (see thread on rust removal pitfalls)

Thanks muskrat man.