All About Pocket Knives

Some of you folks may have seen my post in the “Pics of your sharpening area” thread. I showed some pictures of my new Wicked Edge sharpener in that thread and I’ve decided to start a new thread documenting my progress (or lack thereof) with the Wicked Edge in case some of you folks want to follow along.

The model that I bought is the Wicked Edge GO. It’s the entry level Wicked Edge product and it is compatible with all of the Wicked Edge stones and most of the other accessories.

I sharpened my first blade with the unit and here are some pics and comments.

The GO model is designed to be portable so it comes with a C-clamp the secure it to a table or workbench. The supplied C-clamp is just a smidgen too small for my workbench. I decided not to buy a bigger clamp and just mount the unit to my workbench with screws. I bought the GO model primarily for the lower cost and I don’t really need the portability anyway. I like this more secure mounting method much better. It’s solid as a rock now and I can always remove it if I want to transport it. This first picture is the blade I chose for my first attempt and was taken before I sharpened it. These two pictures are the end result. I sharpened at 15 degrees per side using a digital Angle Cube to set the angle. In my opinion, an Angle Cube is a must have because the markings on the unit are not precise.

I used 100, 200, and 600 grit stones. Wicked Edge does offer a 400 grit stone but I don’t have one so I had to skip that step.
The edge will cleanly slice through paper. It will shave hair too but not as easily as I would like. It’s also a little rough looking but I think that’s because my stones are new and not broken in yet. I have experience with a Lansky kit and I would say that this edge is about the equivalent of an edge sharpened up to and including the green Lansky Medium stone.

It’s a very good working edge and the average Joe would be quite happy with it. I want a little more refinement in my edges so I might buy the 800/100 grit stones at a later date. I’m going to hold off on that for now because I want to wait and see how much more refined my edges become as the stones gradually break in.

Here are a couple of pics that I copied from the Wicked Edge website. The top picture is a close up of an edge sharpened with a brand new 600 grit stone. The bottom pic is with a well used 600 grit stone. As you can see, there is quite a difference once the stones break in.

So that’s where I’m at right now. I’ll update this thread as I move along. Thanks for reading.

That looks like a really nice set-up Rick!!! Now you have your own private work space. The edge on your blade looks very even and very sharp. I'd say you're catching on quickly.

Now I have one question for you: What's a "Digital Angle Cube"? Is that something that comes with the unit itself or is it something you bought separately? And how does it work?

______________
Mike

Thank you for the kind words, Mike!

Wicked Edge does sell a Digital Angle Cube and it's identical to mine except it's a different color. I bought mine at the local Lowe's Home Improvement Center for a little less.

Once you get the cube zero'd, you simply hold it against the stone while it rests on the blade's edge. Then you move the angle adjustments forward or backward until the Angle Cube reads the angle you want. Then tighten down the adjustments at that setting.

I took this quick pic for an example. If there was a blade in the clamp the angle would be lower because the stone would move back a little to contact the edge.

OK now I get it. I would have never thought of doing that. What an excellent idea. Now you can get precise angles for a super sharp blade. I might have to get me one of those.

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Mike

Rick can you post a pic showing a knife in place for sharpening so i can see the set up ? I don't know if this is manual or set up like a belt sander.
kj

Very cool, Rick. Thanks for sharing!

kootenay joe wrote:Rick can you post a pic showing a knife in place for sharpening so i can see the set up ? I don't know if this is manual or set up like a belt sander.
kj

I'd be happy to, Roland as soon as I can find a knife that I wouldn't mind ruining if I mess up. That's proving to be a lot harder than I expected. Even my kitchen knives all have some reason why I don't want to use them for practice. If I don't find one soon, I'll clamp any ole knife on there and get a pic for you.

The unit is 100% manual. No power whatsoever.

Steve Warden wrote:Very cool, Rick. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks, Steve and you're welcome.

kootenay joe wrote:Rick can you post a pic showing a knife in place for sharpening so i can see the set up ? I don't know if this is manual or set up like a belt sander.
kj

Here you go, Roland.

With this unit you have a stone for each side of the knife so you sharpen both sides at the same time. One pass with the right stone followed by one pass with the left stone until you reach the desired bevel. In this example, I'll start with the 100 grit stones to set the bevel, then turn the stones around to the 200 grit side and continue. Then the 600 grit in the same manner.

Thank you Rick. I can see now that knife blade is held by a clamp and stones are moved across edge. I was thinking of a motorized system designed by Ken Onion. I think the name is similar.
kj

I don't really have an update but I wanted to drop in and demonstrate why the Angle Cube is helpful with this device. I apologize for the poor photography.

In these top two pictures the angle adjuster on the Wicked Edge is locked down at 15.2 degrees according to the Angle Cube. Note that the tick marks on the base of the Wicked Edge are pretty accurate on this side. (left side) Now take a look at the right side. The angle adjuster is locked down at the same 15.2 degrees but the tick marks read a slightly higher angle than the left side. Nothing dramatic here. In this example the difference is only about .5 degrees but I've noticed that the higher the angle, the greater the difference between the left and right tick marks. If the user was going to use the tick marks only, the edge angles on the finished knife would be wider on one side than the other. The Angle Cube helps ensure precisely the same angle on both sides regardless of what the tick marks might imply.

A most excellent tip

It does not really affect function if one side is say 15 degrees and the other side 20 degrees. As long as both sides meet perfectly with no burr, a blade will cut well. I doubt a user could discern between 15-15 and 15-20.
I bet most who freehand sharpen do not get the same angle on each side.
These are my thoughts. I have not read this in posts by sharpening experts.
kj

Almost every review I've seen of the Wicked Edge whether written or video, recommends the use of an Angle Cube. The designer of the product himself, Clay Allison, recommends it too. That's why I bought one and I'm glad I did.

I posted the angle demonstration so that anyone who might be thinking about getting a Wicked Edge can see an example of what the reviewers are talking about. The reviewers recommend it but I've never seen pictures demonstrating why.

I think any sharpening expert if asked would agree that while not absolutely necessary, a symmetrical edge bevel is better than a non symmetrical edge bevel in most cases.

If the user of any guided sharpening system is getting a 15 degree bevel on one side and a 20 degree bevel on the other side then that user is defeating the purpose of using a guided system.

Quote Rick: "If the user of any guided sharpening system is getting a 15 degree bevel on one side and a 20 degree bevel on the other side then that user is defeating the purpose of using a guided system."
I humbly disagree. A guided system enables you to keep the angle consistent along the edge, every stroke is at the same angle. With freehand i am sure that every stroke is not at the same angle. Experienced sharpeners are likely close, but for beginners some strokes might be more on the 'shoulder' of the edge, and others right on the edge, dulling it slightly.
I would really like to hear from those with lots of free hand sharpening experience: how important is it to match the sharpening angle side to side ?
kj

kootenay joe wrote:Quote Rick: "If the user of any guided sharpening system is getting a 15 degree bevel on one side and a 20 degree bevel on the other side then that user is defeating the purpose of using a guided system."
I humbly disagree. A guided system enables you to keep the angle consistent along the edge, every stroke is at the same angle. With freehand i am sure that every stroke is not at the same angle. Experienced sharpeners are likely close, but for beginners some strokes might be more on the 'shoulder' of the edge, and others right on the edge, dulling it slightly.
I would really like to hear from those with lots of free hand sharpening experience: how important is it to match the sharpening angle side to side ?
kj

Someone with lots of freehand experience might be biased toward their way of sharpening.

It would probably be best to get opinions from those with lots of guided sharpening experience since that's what this thread is about.

Rick the question is not "which system do you prefer." It is: 'how important is it to match edge angles to get a truly sharp blade".
I think those who are able to get a 'hair poppin' edge free hand, might realize their technique does not match angles. The knife is held differently depending on which side you are sharpening, so quite likely there is a difference in angle of a few degrees. I see "5" as a "few degrees".
If the Wicked Edge sharpens one side at 15 degrees and the other at 20 degrees, the blade will cut as well as if both sides are 15 degrees. "Just as well" meaning the user would not perceive a difference in his regular use.
By adjusting one side a couple of degrees because of the angle cube reading will not result in an edge that cuts any better. Your technique of being able to sharpen evenly all the way to the very edge is what gives the very sharp edge, not the matching of angles.
No one even talked about trying to exactly match angles until these guided systems came along (about 30 years ago ?). Matching angles then got promoted as part of marketing a new product.
Let's hear from those with lots of sharpening experience, please, help us out.
kj

Roland, you obviously don't want a Wicked Edge sharpener. Nothing at all wrong with that but let's say that hypothetically, you have a Wicked Edge and an Angle Cube to go with it.

Would you tap into the unit's full potential and strive to produce symmetrical bevels or would you just casually sharpen your knives on it and be happy with whatever results you got?

I wanted to get my stones broken in before I move on to my "good knives" so I asked around at work. Mitch at work loaned me this Gerber with a chip in the blade.

I thought "This is perfect. I'll be helping Mitch and my stones will get a good workout".

This one was a bit of a challenge so I wanted to share. My stones did in fact get a good workout and I'm ready to exit the practice phase and start using this sharpener on my good knives. Next up is the Bob Cargill Cripple Creek knife in my avatar.

First 3 pics are Before. Last 2 pics are After.

Looking good, Rick.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and progress on the
Wicked Edge GO system.

I am sure it took a lot of 'strokes' to re-do the entire edge, both sides, and you certainly got a good result.
I do have a guided system, the EdgePro and it works well especially for rather thick grinds that need to be re-profiled. It is a bit 'over kill' for touch ups on a thinly ground blade.
kj

Steve Warden wrote:Looking good, Rick.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and progress on the
Wicked Edge GO system.

kootenay joe wrote:I am sure it took a lot of 'strokes' to re-do the entire edge, both sides, and you certainly got a good result.
I do have a guided system, the EdgePro and it works well especially for rather thick grinds that need to be re-profiled. It is a bit 'over kill' for touch ups on a thinly ground blade.
kj

Thanks guys!

Thanks Railsplitter, very enjoyable and informative post.

Just for interest and maybe inspiration, about how many hours did it take to get this perfect result ?
kj

doglegg wrote:Thanks Railsplitter, very enjoyable and informative post.

Thanks doglegg and you're welcome.

kootenay joe wrote:Just for interest and maybe inspiration, about how many hours did it take to get this perfect result ?
kj

I'd estimate a total of about 2.75 hours. About 2.25 hours to remove the chip with the 100 grit stones and another half hour to progress through the 200, 600, 800, and 1000 grit stones.