Western Fixed Blade Restoration
Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 2:45 am
I love the carbon steel in Western knives, and they are some of the best that was ever made, IMHO.
I am however, not is excited about their bifurcated tang, other than the fact that their bifurcated tang coupled with the layered leather handle leaves me a good supply of knives with rotten leather handles that can be replaced. The bifurcated tang that is open on each side allows moisture to enter and get underneath the layered leather and cause it to rot. Because I think so highly of the steel I love to replace the handles with bone or stag and then seal them on the inside with glue to keep out the moisture. They look nice when I'm finished and someone gets a knife that will with minimal care last him/her a lifetime!
I thought I took pictures of this one before I started work on it, but I can't find them. Basically all the leather was gone from the handle and the pitting was even worse than it is now. I did not try to regrind the blade, because there would not have been much of it left, but there is plenty of blade left, (in spite of the pits) to use this for a hunting or fishing knife. The steel is awesome and takes a great edge, it is easy to resharpen and I think it makes an attractive knife with a new handle on it. The sheath that comes with this pattern was one Western called a tube sheath. Basically is a piece of leather folded over to make the sheath. The sheath that came with this knife was in pretty rough shape so I made a brand-new sheath and because of a spot on the leather that would have showed through a lighter finish, I used Fiebings USMC Black leather die on the sheath. I asked the guy at the leather store what was the difference between black and USMC Black? He said all of the dark dyes, brown, black and other dark dyes actually have a blue base tint to them, the USMC Black does not, it is completely black. I did notice the difference when I used it. I was pretty impressed with the dye. In the last picture you can see that I covered the snap with a piece of leather so that the snap on the strap would not scratch the bone handle. I also left the strap a little longer to make it easier for someone wearing gloves to open the strap.
On the knife itself, I use three layers of spacers, (white, black, white) next to the tang to raise the handle up a little bit as the bone was not quite thick enough. I thought the spacers looked pretty good. I probably should've replace the horizontal spacers as well. The handle is CSB (carved stag bone ) from Culpepper's. I believe the color was Mossy Oak.
Thanks for looking and please let me know what you think.
I am however, not is excited about their bifurcated tang, other than the fact that their bifurcated tang coupled with the layered leather handle leaves me a good supply of knives with rotten leather handles that can be replaced. The bifurcated tang that is open on each side allows moisture to enter and get underneath the layered leather and cause it to rot. Because I think so highly of the steel I love to replace the handles with bone or stag and then seal them on the inside with glue to keep out the moisture. They look nice when I'm finished and someone gets a knife that will with minimal care last him/her a lifetime!
I thought I took pictures of this one before I started work on it, but I can't find them. Basically all the leather was gone from the handle and the pitting was even worse than it is now. I did not try to regrind the blade, because there would not have been much of it left, but there is plenty of blade left, (in spite of the pits) to use this for a hunting or fishing knife. The steel is awesome and takes a great edge, it is easy to resharpen and I think it makes an attractive knife with a new handle on it. The sheath that comes with this pattern was one Western called a tube sheath. Basically is a piece of leather folded over to make the sheath. The sheath that came with this knife was in pretty rough shape so I made a brand-new sheath and because of a spot on the leather that would have showed through a lighter finish, I used Fiebings USMC Black leather die on the sheath. I asked the guy at the leather store what was the difference between black and USMC Black? He said all of the dark dyes, brown, black and other dark dyes actually have a blue base tint to them, the USMC Black does not, it is completely black. I did notice the difference when I used it. I was pretty impressed with the dye. In the last picture you can see that I covered the snap with a piece of leather so that the snap on the strap would not scratch the bone handle. I also left the strap a little longer to make it easier for someone wearing gloves to open the strap.
On the knife itself, I use three layers of spacers, (white, black, white) next to the tang to raise the handle up a little bit as the bone was not quite thick enough. I thought the spacers looked pretty good. I probably should've replace the horizontal spacers as well. The handle is CSB (carved stag bone ) from Culpepper's. I believe the color was Mossy Oak.
Thanks for looking and please let me know what you think.
