All About Pocket Knives

Hello everyone, I have a question about how to remove some patina on a carbon blade. I was cleaning one of my 2006 GECs and dang if I didn't cut myself. It seems like within minutes the edge of the blade started turning. I tried some Ren Wax and then some Flitz, but it didn't come off. I hate to buff a new knife that I was hoping to 'put back'. Is there any other way, or should I just go ahead and put it into EDC rotation? Thanks for any opinions.
Richard

I don't know how you can stop the patina that has already started without buffing it. If that happens to me, it will probably become my new EDC.

Dale

Thanks Dale. I thought as much.
Oh well, who doesn't need a $75 user?

I recieved my 2006 #73 Chestnut with the nail pull full of rust and some pitting starting to show. I thought about returning it, but decided to make it an EDC. It is an excellent working knife.

The true test of a knife is in the use of it.
They’re a million jewelers in the world capable of making pretty pocket jewelry.
A skilled knife maker is one in a million.

Dale

True.
No doubt about this one being an excellent user. Just hadn't planned on making one of my '06s one.

Guys,

How do you go about buffing the knife blade to remove the patina? I have a couple of older knives that I've used 000 steel wool on, but that only makes a marginal improvement.

Thanks
Keith

Hi Keith,

You'll need a buffer - which is an electric motor, with the buffing wheels sold by all the knifemaker supply houses.

But, you need to understand, the buffer is the most dangerous piece of equipment in the shop. It WILL take that knife away from you, and throw it "somewhere" - hopefully downwards.

I'll be glad to send you a pic, and help you with the info, if you'd like. But, you gotta realize, before you start, it's a dangerous procedure, unless you are experienced.

PM me, if you like.

JR

Ringmaster wrote:Hi Keith,

You'll need a buffer - which is an electric motor, with the buffing wheels sold by all the knifemaker supply houses.

But, you need to understand, the buffer is the most dangerous piece of equipment in the shop. It WILL take that knife away from you, and throw it "somewhere" - hopefully downwards.

JR

I lost a knife backspring off a buffer wheel once. It hit the buffer table, bounced up & hit the ceiling and landed (I thought) in the messiest corner of my shop......the corner where I pile stuff.

It took me two days of cleaning to find it. When I did find it, it was in a pencil can on one of my workbenches.

It is funny now, but could have been deadly, to say nothing of the frustration of having to stop work & clean the shop for two days to find the silly thing.

Dale

Ringmaster wrote:Hi Keith,

You'll need a buffer - which is an electric motor, with the buffing wheels sold by all the knifemaker supply houses.

But, you need to understand, the buffer is the most dangerous piece of equipment in the shop. It WILL take that knife away from you, and throw it "somewhere" - hopefully downwards.

I'll be glad to send you a pic, and help you with the info, if you'd like. But, you gotta realize, before you start, it's a dangerous procedure, unless you are experienced.

PM me, if you like.

JR

YES, JR is correct, I have seen pictures of knives sticking out of the ceiling that had been thrown by a buffer, if it is just clean up, loose muslin wheels are best IMO. I do wear a leather shop apron for a bit of safety, just a bit. Gloves on a buffer are not something I do, I don't feel I need them. There are better places to use them.

Couple things to think about:
Do not buy a cheap 3600 RPM buffer from Harbor Freight or the like. The speed of the motor is 3600 RPM, an 8 inch wheel is covering ~ 7500 RPM.

Get a 10 inch buffer that runs at 1725 RPM made by a good company, Baldor is around $600.00 for a 1 HP and I have a Jet 10 inch at 1 HP. Jet once made in America, then Taiwan is now made in China. I did get it on sale at a local tool store for about $175 and it runs every bit a smooth as the Baldor. A Baldor will last for life, Jet remains to be seen.

By getting a 10 inch at 1725 RPM you change the wheel speed from 1800 RPM on a 4 inch wheel to about 5500 RPM with a 10 inch wheel as measured by the wheel surface by wheel surface area. K&G has a little chart in their catalog.

On a pocket knife a 4 or 6 inch wheel will work fine, 6 inch is much easier to find. I very rarely use a 10 inch wheel, but there are times I find it necessary on large grinds.

You need a different wheel for every buffing compound you use, ALWAYS!

IF you buff that blade that has an etch the ETCH WILL BUFF OFF!

Wow, the buffer sounds like something that I should stay away from for at least the time being. I'm that guy that hits his thumb with the hammer, cuts the hedge trimmer's electrical cord and stabs himself with the screwdriver. I can only imagine what would happen on the buffer. Thanks

Every buffing wheel and stone grinding wheel has a sweet spot where I do all my work. This is about the 4 to 5 o' clock area. Even in this area sharp objects can be thrown, outside the sweet spot, a part is much more easily thrown.