All About Pocket Knives

How much does having the original sheath add to the value? Like new or worn? This would be for average hunters.
Thanks, Bob

For your average hunting knife, a sheath CAN add substantically to the value. Bear in mind a quality custom made leather sheath will run you $50. An aftermarket Kydex sheath maybe $25- 30. But take into consideration something like a USA made Schrade sharpfinger, which you can pick up reasonable on ebay; sheaths are also available at ebay and gun/knife shows for $5.00. Most any current Buck knife you can find a replacement sheath for $9 or ten. It's those older, out of production, or short production run knives that can be tough to find a ready made sheath for.

Prices usually go like this: Knife only: X dollars. Knife and Sheath XX dollars. Knive, sheath, paperwork: XXX dollars.


Something special you need in the way of a sheath?

Phil

I do not curently need a sheath. One knife I picked up has loose or missing threads so I will try to hand sew it in the original holes. Another has initials cut into the sheath, {sloppy} and some wear. Again I did not pay much for either.
Bob

This made me think again...

What is a good thing to put on the sheath to preserve them ?

Saddle Soap ? Or will that make them go soft faster ?

justold52 wrote:This made me think again...

What is a good thing to put on the sheath to preserve them ?

Saddle Soap ? Or will that make them go soft faster ?

Nothing beats neetsfoot oil for preserving leather, if you want to put a sheen on it, then I use Doc Bailey's Tonic (found on EBAY)..if you want to harden the sheath first, submerge it in water, wet mold it around your knife while you're at it, then let it dry out in the sun, make sure it gets good and dry...then apply a coat of neetsfoot oil...
Caution, do not store your knife in the sheath for any extended time...there's moister in the oil and your knife will rust some., or at least blemish.

Hi Rayban,
Welcome to AAPK.

I would caution you on the use of Neetsfoot oil. I would NOT put Neetsfoot oil on a sheath unless it was very dried out. Neetsfoot oil will soften the leather & make it stretch. I have used it with great success in restoring dried out leather ring handles on knives, I do NOT use it on my sheaths.

I have used Lexol on sheaths to preserve them & saddle soap to clean them. I recently found a product I like even better than Lexol for preserving sheaths; it is called Leather Therapy. It is used to restore & condition leather. Often used on high-end saddles. It is available on line at http://www.leathertherapy.com

I recently had occasion to restore a couple dozen mildewed leather sheaths. I brushed them with saddle soap & a wee bit water and an old toothbrush, then rinsed them in warm water. Then after they had dried out good (completely dry) I put a coat of Leather Therapy on them. They are a shade darker (from the saddle soap I think) but do not smell of mildew and are nearly as good as new. In fact I have one I use almost daily.

If you use Neetsfoot oil on a sheath that fits your knife now, it is possible the leather will be softened & stretched enough that the knife will be loose in the sheath. Be very careful with it. It will definitely soften the leather.

Dale

For mildew a mild mixture of oxalic acid works well on leather. Same stuff used as a wood renewer wood decks or wood fences to make them look like new. Plain white vinegar can work also, do not use colored vinegars, they will stain the leather.

Can't find TSP (Ca you can't) oxalic acid or other products, try http://www.chemistrystore.com

Oxalic acid is considered a poison, 2 or 3 tablespoons to a pint of water and wear latex or Nitrile gloves. (I prefer Nitrile as they do perform much better than latex with a wide range of materials).

Oxalic acid is just wood bleach, some claim that vinegar will make the leather smell for a long time. Oxalic acid has worked well for me, and quickly.

I am going to try Olympic Oxy-Deck and Olympic Mildew Check because they are more friendly to the environment.

These are materials that are to be used prior to dyeing.

Neetsfoot oil, as Dale said will make a knife set more loosely in the sheath. The use of Bag-Kote or Tan-Kote will keep the leather tight.

Hukk,
You can pickup some TSP or wood bleach in April when you come up to the OKCA show. It is still available on Oregon.

I learned of the saddle soap and water method of cleaning leather from Paul Long (Sheathmaker). His advice stood me in good stead on the batch I cleaned. I was reluctant to use any chemicals on the leather if I could help it. I was very pleased with the result I got from the saddle soap and happy I didn’t have to buy chemicals.

BTW, if you need a sheath made, Paul is the fellow to make them. His sheaths are works of functional art. He is a heck of a nice guy and a member of AAPK.

Dale

mrwatch wrote:How much does having the original sheath add to the value? Like new or worn? This would be for average hunters.
Thanks, Bob

I would say that has to depend on the shape of the sheath......here's one that came with the knife. This one for sure didn't add to the value of the knife, in my opinion. I couldn't wait to get home to replace it.
Looks like they could have used one more rivet huh??

orvet wrote:Hukk,
You can pickup some TSP or wood bleach in April when you come up to the OKCA show. It is still available on Oregon.
I learned of the saddle soap and water method of cleaning leather from Paul Long (Sheathmaker). His advice stood me in good stead on the batch I cleaned. I was reluctant to use any chemicals on the leather if I could help it. I was very pleased with the result I got from the saddle soap and happy I didn’t have to buy chemicals.
BTW, if you need a sheath made, Paul is the fellow to make them. His sheaths are works of functional art. He is a heck of a nice guy and a member of AAPK.

Dale

I have plenty of TSP, I bought a 40Lb pail. I got a large quantity because TSP is used as an electrolyte when annodizing titanium.
I may check the price of pails of TSP when I come up for the show, shipping is at the hazardous materials rate - $$$.

I will join the Oregon club before the next show, the premium items seemed to have sold out on Friday night, members only night.

I like Paul Long's sheaths and there are a couple others that I watch also on another site. I make sheaths, but only for the knives I make since mine are completely handmade and hand stitched, I do wish I had a sewing machine though. Who would have thought that? I do agree sheathmakers sheaths are amongst the best.

rayban wrote:

justold52 wrote:This made me think again...

What is a good thing to put on the sheath to preserve them ?

Saddle Soap ? Or will that make them go soft faster ?

Nothing beats neetsfoot oil for preserving leather, if you want to put a sheen on it, then I use Doc Bailey's Tonic (found on EBAY)..if you want to harden the sheath first, submerge it in water, wet mold it around your knife while you're at it, then let it dry out in the sun, make sure it gets good and dry...then apply a coat of neetsfoot oil...
Caution, do not store your knife in the sheath for any extended time...there's moister in the oil and your knife will rust some., or at least blemish.

Doc Bailey's Tonic You said.

I was told that a 2 step one cleaner and one sealer application was better ? Whats your opinion on that.

justold52 wrote:

rayban wrote:

justold52 wrote:This made me think again...

What is a good thing to put on the sheath to preserve them ?

Saddle Soap ? Or will that make them go soft faster ?

Nothing beats neetsfoot oil for preserving leather, if you want to put a sheen on it, then I use Doc Bailey's Tonic (found on EBAY)..if you want to harden the sheath first, submerge it in water, wet mold it around your knife while you're at it, then let it dry out in the sun, make sure it gets good and dry...then apply a coat of neetsfoot oil...
Caution, do not store your knife in the sheath for any extended time...there's moister in the oil and your knife will rust some., or at least blemish.

Doc Bailey's Tonic You said.

I was told that a 2 step one cleaner and one sealer application was better ? Whats your opinion on that.

It's always a good idea to clean up your leather b4 you seal it...on new leather, I use Doc Baileys. To re-condition, yes, saddle soap first, then I go to DB....everyone has their favorites, right?
If you want to soften leather, I would use neetsfoot oil.
I don't use it on sheaths since I like to keep my sheaths hardened, again, that's my preference.