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Buffing
Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 2:26 am
by bigden
Can anyone tell me how to properly buff the tang of a used straight knife.
When I buff a hunting knife with a 3 diffrent compounds I have problems blending in the tang due to the wheel not being able to get that close.If I buff sideways it doen not seem to blend in.I am new to buffing,with a new Baldor buffer but,I need help if this makes sense.I am useing greeseless compound 240 -320-400 then green blending rouge then the loose muslin wheel with white rouge.Should I buff longer with green and white and how long to blend in the tang?It has the factory finish with the rest of the knife buffed out a little duller.I hope this makes sense.Thanks Dennis

buffing question
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 4:26 pm
by Mossdancer
Hi Dennis:
As far as I'm concerned(and i'm nobody) you can ask any question you want. real or hypothetical. You have to be prepared to recieve answers you agree with and will in all likelyhood receive some you don't like. That is what makes this a great site, members are not afraid to say what they think.
I am of the opinion a custom made Moran or a prize Price (along with other such examples) should probably not visit the buffer. Not because of damage to them as much as saving the true blade for posterity.
On the other hand should a person own a general run of the mill knife whether it costs fifty cents or five hundred dollars, it is theirs and they can do as they wish with it.
IMO, for buffing I use only hard cakes(be careful of emery or black cake it can really eat up metal) and take off surface rust or paints. I try to keep any patination that I like. As you this is done when it's an EDC or a keeper.
moss
buffing
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:41 pm
by bigden
Thanks mossdancer for your help and honesty.Dennis
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 8:17 pm
by Hukk
Well since this has been already buffed you can look for a razor edge muslin buff and other similar buffing wheels, a tapered spindle will need to be purchased for the wheels
(only need one, unless you really like them for quick changes) at K&G
http://www.knifeandgun.com These will help you get into a tight spot, especially if your buffer is going too fast, IMO anything over 2,000 RPM is too fast, the bigger the wheel, the more surface it covers. As you gain experience, you'll have less problems. I like pink scratchless after my white rouge in many cases.
Last but not least, get
ALL the catalogs you can.
K&G, Texas Knifemakers Supply
http://www.texasknife.com Jantz
http://www.jantzsupply.com Sheffields
http://www.sheffieldsupply.com and I can give you good informational links if you need them.
Good luck!
PS: Exactly my thought moss, but since the knife sounds like it has visited the buffer already, I thought I'd give my 2 cents. I contemplated answering this yesterday, but got very busy.

I have never buffed a used knife, so this is new territory for me. I did look up the razor edge wheels in the K&G catalog, they will get to within 1/8 inch of a tight spot.