All About Pocket Knives

If one was to disassemble this frame and handle and rebuild it after securing parts needed, what sequence would you suggest in numbered order putting new pins back into handle please?

Once the knife is disassembled you want to put 3 and 4 in and pein them first (if you're putting new covers on) since they hold the handles to the liner. When you assemble it put one and five in first (loose and leave the pins long) to hold everything together, then put the knife in a vise and squeeze the backspring in until the spring holes line up, after which yo can insert the final pin. That's a quick rundown, there are a few little details along the way that can be covered once you get there.

By the way that's a REALLY big hole where the bolster goes, don't make it that big in the bolster, hopefully the other side is smaller and you can use that as a guide, you're going to want to keep it at around the same size as your blade hole, maybe a tad smaller depending on pin size, which might be around .093., I don't think they went as high as .120.

Eric

what eric said i always put the pivot pin in last if i can help it, all but eliminates the chances of cracking the handle during the pin insertion.

ea42 wrote:Once the knife is disassembled you want to put 3 and 4 in and pein them first (if you're putting new covers on) since they hold the handles to the liner. When you assemble it put one and five in first (loose and leave the pins long) to hold everything together, then put the knife in a vise and squeeze the backspring in until the spring holes line up, after which yo can insert the final pin. That's a quick rundown, there are a few little details along the way that can be covered once you get there.

By the way that's a REALLY big hole where the bolster goes, don't make it that big in the bolster, hopefully the other side is smaller and you can use that as a guide, you're going to want to keep it at around the same size as your blade hole, maybe a tad smaller depending on pin size, which might be around .093., I don't think they went as high as .120.

Eric

Good observation #5 blade hole. Interesting what Schrade did back in the days. The Bolster was designed with a round extension 'donut sleeve' on the fitting side that fit in that liner hole with the pin #5 pin hole drilled through it. I guess it took allot of guess work at assembly time.
Now I am starting to get the picture #3 and #4 secures the cover first.
Next put everything in sandwich and put in #1 and #5.
Squeeze the spring and hopefully #2 fits perfect.
It will be interesting to say the least.
thanks

PS I wonder why Schrade illiminated #3 later on in manufacturing?

garyflorida wrote:

ea42 wrote:Once the knife is disassembled you want to put 3 and 4 in and pein them first (if you're putting new covers on) since they hold the handles to the liner. When you assemble it put one and five in first (loose and leave the pins long) to hold everything together, then put the knife in a vise and squeeze the backspring in until the spring holes line up, after which yo can insert the final pin. That's a quick rundown, there are a few little details along the way that can be covered once you get there.

By the way that's a REALLY big hole where the bolster goes, don't make it that big in the bolster, hopefully the other side is smaller and you can use that as a guide, you're going to want to keep it at around the same size as your blade hole, maybe a tad smaller depending on pin size, which might be around .093., I don't think they went as high as .120.

Eric

PS I wonder why Schrade illiminated #3 later on in manufacturing?

cheaper, less materials and time and wasn't entirely neccesary

Gary are both sides bolsterless? How big is your blade tang hole compared to the holes in the liners?

Eric

ea42 wrote:Gary are both sides bolsterless? How big is your blade tang hole compared to the holes in the liners?

Eric

Both sides have bolster removed.Two Schrade frames for example. One newer style but both were machined the same way as far as bolster/liner connection. One pic shows old style bolster connected to another OS liner for example.

OK, when a bolster is formed it's made with a pin that sticks out of the back. This is called a "tommy on" pin. It's inserted through the countersunk hole in the liner and then put in a press and squeezed into place (tommy'd on). This holds the bolster to the liner, a much faster process than soldering. The assembly is then brought to a fixture set up in a drill press that perfectly aligns the liner so that the bolster hole can be drilled in the correct spot. You're going to have a hard time finding that spot now that the bolsters are removed, and it is critical. Luckily you have some spare bolster scales (that's what we called the liners with bolsters attached). I'd clamp one of them to the bolsterless scale and use that as a guide to drill your new hole once you get to that point.

Eric

ea42 wrote:OK, when a bolster is formed it's made with a pin that sticks out of the back. This is called a "tommy on" pin. It's inserted through the countersunk hole in the liner and then put in a press and squeezed into place (tommy'd on). This holds the bolster to the liner, a much faster process than soldering. The assembly is then brought to a fixture set up in a drill press that perfectly aligns the liner so that the bolster hole can be drilled in the correct spot. You're going to have a hard time finding that spot now that the bolsters are removed, and it is critical. Luckily you have some spare bolster scales (that's what we called the liners with bolsters attached). I'd clamp one of them to the bolsterless scale and use that as a guide to drill your new hole once you get to that point.

Eric

I had better tell the rest of the story. This fragment of a schrade cut co rope knife was my Grandfather's. He did not let me use it much because he knew I would break it. At that time I had no respect for tools. He passed away and I broke the knife, whatever it was. Bolsters gone, blade falls off on the floor. Years go by and I decide to figure out what this broken Grandfather's pet was.
That started the rope knife craze, it is incurable.
So I did save a few parts but not all. Two things, I want to fix this Schrade Cut Co....
And I want to make a scratch built imitation in perfect shape so I will have the best of both Worlds.