Jimping a 110
Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 3:45 am
Anyone out there cut jimping into the spine of your 110? I was considering doing it to one of mine and was curious about any positive or negative experiences with this. JB
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Jimping a 110
http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_forum/viewtopic.php?t=52670
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Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 12:36 pm
I have a checkering file after I used it for another project I started on my bucket knives.
Honestly I don't use it on the blade, my thumb just doesn't extend out that far. But on the button! What a difference! It not only helps when pushing the button, but gives a very sure grip when pulling it from the sheath.
It helps so much, that on the 110 I use for work, I jimped the rear bolster, were my index finger is in this photo.
It helps so much, that on the 110 I use for work, I jimped the rear bolster, were my index finger is in this photo.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 3:35 pm
eveled, that is pretty neat work. The checkering file; is that a file one would use for checkering a grip on a gun stock?
Will you explain how you cut this in? Did you use a fence or a guide to keep the tool straight? Very nice work.
I think there are some guys on here that will find this interesting.
Will you explain how you cut this in? Did you use a fence or a guide to keep the tool straight? Very nice work.
I think there are some guys on here that will find this interesting.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 3:52 pm
It's not for checkering wood, rather for checkering metal. Here is the other project.
Same file, used in two directions to get the little diamonds.
I put the knife in a vise wrapped in a business card. Then carefully filed being sure to stay in the grooves. The trick I learned is you really need to commit to the first pass to get a set of nice deep grooves to follow, then you can be gentle. The knife is a lot harder than the gun hammer. The file makes multiple lines with each pass, so spacing is not an issue. It will make aprox 1/2 inch of lines, then you can move over a couple of rows to make the area wider, while riding in the grooves you already made.
Nice thing is, If you do it yourself you can make it as deep as you want it. The file cost more than a new 110, but it was worth it.
Same file, used in two directions to get the little diamonds.
I put the knife in a vise wrapped in a business card. Then carefully filed being sure to stay in the grooves. The trick I learned is you really need to commit to the first pass to get a set of nice deep grooves to follow, then you can be gentle. The knife is a lot harder than the gun hammer. The file makes multiple lines with each pass, so spacing is not an issue. It will make aprox 1/2 inch of lines, then you can move over a couple of rows to make the area wider, while riding in the grooves you already made.
Nice thing is, If you do it yourself you can make it as deep as you want it. The file cost more than a new 110, but it was worth it.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 4:02 pm
Very nice work eveled.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 4:09 pm
I also recently added a single finger groove to one of mine. I like it a lot, think I will probably do more of them. It's going to be interesting the next time I send one back to Buck for a new blade.LOL!
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 9:24 pm
@eveled Great Mods and very practical ... I'm just rebuilding a couple of Schrade LB7's might give one of them your treatment.
Derek
Derek
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 2:03 am
I had to look those files up.
That was a very creative way to use a tool for more than one purpose.
Nice work!
That was a very creative way to use a tool for more than one purpose.
Nice work!
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 2:27 am
eveled, what cut and what size file did you use in your work there?
I'm looking at checkering files.
Thank you.
I'm looking at checkering files.
Thank you.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 12:57 pm
It is a 6 inch grobert swiss pattern 00 cut 20 lines per inch. I found it on Amazon for $31. The fewer lines per inch the better IMHO.
I've found jimping and sharpening choils are better if you do them yourself. The manufacturers go too deep on both.
I liked the subtle effect it has, and did not use a tri corner file to make the cuts deeper, but that is what you will need to get a more aggressive grip.
Be sure to post pictures I'd like to see your results.
I've found jimping and sharpening choils are better if you do them yourself. The manufacturers go too deep on both.
I liked the subtle effect it has, and did not use a tri corner file to make the cuts deeper, but that is what you will need to get a more aggressive grip.
Be sure to post pictures I'd like to see your results.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 3:58 pm
Thank you very much, eveled.
I am looking at those on Amazon.
I am looking at those on Amazon.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 9:21 pm
You are very welcome. Glad to help.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 1:09 pm
Just to follow up, now that I've added the one finger groove , it moves my grip forward just enough to make the jimping on the blade useful.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 5:07 am
Thanks for sharing the technique. That is exactly what I was wanting to know about. I wouldn't even have thought about jimping the bolster too. I've been working on repairing the house after the Hurricane Harvey flood, but I'm going to do some of this when things get back to normal around here. How did you do the finger groove?
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 11:02 pm
It may get interesting when you try for a new blade. They often do not work on any modified model. 300Bucks
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 4:36 am
Metalhead, nice to hear from you! Too often the OP, asked a question, then goes MIA. Dealing with flood damage must be exhausting.
The finger groove was made with a sanding drum in a drill press. I bought a whole set for under $10 at harbor freight. I picked the one that was the diameter I wanted then just pushed the knife into it.
300bucks, I'm not really worried about replacing the blades again, it took 30 years to wear out 2 knives, now I have more 110's in the EDC rotation, I doubt I'll live long enough to wear out another. It is something to think about though.
I paid $35 for my first 110, and $27 for my last one. The $35 was two days pay at the time, the $27 less than an hour's pay now. Crazy to think about.
The finger groove was made with a sanding drum in a drill press. I bought a whole set for under $10 at harbor freight. I picked the one that was the diameter I wanted then just pushed the knife into it.
300bucks, I'm not really worried about replacing the blades again, it took 30 years to wear out 2 knives, now I have more 110's in the EDC rotation, I doubt I'll live long enough to wear out another. It is something to think about though.
I paid $35 for my first 110, and $27 for my last one. The $35 was two days pay at the time, the $27 less than an hour's pay now. Crazy to think about.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 4:03 am
Just curious. It appears that you cut the “hammer spur” off the hammer before you “checkered it”. Is that correct? Most wheel gun hammers have pretty good grip on the spur by default or “stock” factory. My assumption is that you added checkering because you cut the hammer spur off for increased hammer speed or anti snag concealed carry. Mind sharing the details of this?eveled wrote:It's not for checkering wood, rather for checkering metal. Here is the other project.
Same file, used in two directions to get the little diamonds.
I put the knife in a vise wrapped in a business card. Then carefully filed being sure to stay in the grooves. The trick I learned is you really need to commit to the first pass to get a set of nice deep grooves to follow, then you can be gentle. The knife is a lot harder than the gun hammer. The file makes multiple lines with each pass, so spacing is not an issue. It will make aprox 1/2 inch of lines, then you can move over a couple of rows to make the area wider, while riding in the grooves you already made.
Nice thing is, If you do it yourself you can make it as deep as you want it. The file cost more than a new 110, but it was worth it.
IMG_20170129_182854054_zpsl35xsh91.jpg
Jerry
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 5:10 pm
It's an old school trick. A real bobbed hammer, doesn't have a single action notch, so it is DAO Double action only.
Ruger made hammers like mine for the old Six Series revolvers., They called it a speed hammer. The hammer spur is gone, but the single action notch is still functional. The checking allows the hammer to still be cocked for single action shots.
You start the hammer back with the trigger then use your thumb to cock it.
It is a controversial modification. So I can't recommend it.......
Ruger made hammers like mine for the old Six Series revolvers., They called it a speed hammer. The hammer spur is gone, but the single action notch is still functional. The checking allows the hammer to still be cocked for single action shots.
You start the hammer back with the trigger then use your thumb to cock it.
It is a controversial modification. So I can't recommend it.......
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 8:00 pm
Eveled, I had forgotten I posted this; several months must have gone by without a reply. I'm glad you picked up on it. I just ordered one of those checkering files, and maybe a few swigs of bourbon will help give me enough courage to start tearing one up. I like your old school hammer trick too. I've never committed to bobbing the hammer off my snub nose because I like having the option of shooting it slingle action. This looks like a way to have your cake and eat it too. Maybe another project for the list.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 8:49 pm
Metalhead, you are very welcome. Nice to hear from you.
It turned into a fun thread. Be sure to post pictures, and if you do the hammer, be sure to remove it from the revolver, and use a padded vise.
It turned into a fun thread. Be sure to post pictures, and if you do the hammer, be sure to remove it from the revolver, and use a padded vise.
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:11 pm
Hi eveled ,
If I used a mini file for this , how easy do you think it would be ? I would really like to try it on my 112 but I am cautious not having tried it before as to achieving a straight file cut !
If I used a mini file for this , how easy do you think it would be ? I would really like to try it on my 112 but I am cautious not having tried it before as to achieving a straight file cut !
Re: Jimping a 110
Posted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 9:00 pm
I think it would be very difficult with a single file. The checkering file takes care of the spacing and makes sure the rows are parallel.