All About Pocket Knives

I found what I believe to be this one, but I'm only actually able to find minimal info on it like value or correct rarity thanks in advance

Welcome to AAPK Charles, if you could post pics that would help a bunch.

???

Ok I'll have to figure out how thanks

Charles, goto the AAPK tips and tricks forum on the first page it should give you the info how to post pics. Its not hard.

Monte

I've herd of this knife before and believe it to be a miners knife , extremely rare knife .
Definitely pictures please .

Here's a few thanks

Have you placed a magnet against the blade?

Charlie Noyes

No didn't try it, I'll try it when I get home

" . . . a copper blade for working around explosives . . . " That's pretty interesting, thanks for posting.

Shouldn`t it have turned green by now?

Ok passed the magnet tests, so it's definitely a copper blade

It would be interesting to sharpen a copper blade, to see how it reacts to stones and the edge it takes (or doesn't take).

Bunch on Fleabay with the same patent date (9-21-26) but none with a copper hawkbill blade:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ANTIQUE ... SwtZJY-o0n

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GEORGE-SCHRADE- ... xydlFS9EnL

Both Boy and Girl Scouts used these "Wire Jack" knives in their utensil kits. The first Boy Scout kits were available in their October 1932 catalog item #1384 and the three-piece set sold for $1.00. Many of the forks (about 1/2) are stamped "1/72/42" in error; the correct stamp is "1/27/42". However, before the three piece Boy Scout kits, George Schrade had a "Scout Chow Kit" that came in a smaller leather case and did NOT have a spoon. In this older kit, the knife was usually either a "1926 curved Geo Schrade" stamp or a "Wire jack" stamp w/cap lifter slot. The fork looked the same as the other forks and came with one of the older tang stamps.

I don't think the patent applies to the copper blade, but to the knife itself.

Charlie

[attachment=1]IMG_0502.JPG[/attachment][attachment=0]IMG_0504.JPG[/attachment]

Rare, the word, doesn't quite cover it. One of one, IMHO.

I've never seen one before and I've been looking for many years.

Glenn, Guy Card Glenn, the master collector of Wire Jacks wrote that he had seen one. And that one had the same exact tang stamp as this one shown here. Could be the very same knife. Glenn, I sent you photos but haven't heard back from you, hope all is well.

I've preserved the subject of your inquiry for future purposes. I've micro-sealed the cleaned and renewed surface so that it cannot rust or corrode. A real gem.

charlestooterpie wrote:Ok passed the magnet tests, so it's definitely a copper blade

When you say it passed the magnet test, do you mean it was not attracted to the magnet ? Or, was it attracted to the magnet ?

That blade does not look like copper to my eyes. You've got it in hand and I'm just looking at a picture but still, it looks like steel with patina on it from here.

If I may comment here: I acquired the knife from the OP. My photos here are of the same knife shown after preservation. The blade is indeed copper. And it shows no attraction to a magnet. This knife was originally discovered/documented by Glen Davis and you can read his comments on his site Guycard. http://www.guycard.com/wirejack.htm

Is something copper: https://www.leaf.tv/articles/how-do-you ... is-copper/

So, what's with steel blades and explosives being a bad combo? Copper knives for EOD use are still being made today.

oregon wrote: I've micro-sealed the cleaned and renewed surface so that it cannot rust or corrode. A real gem.

I'm wondering if you could describe that process as I'm unfamiliar it. Thank you in advance.

cody6268 wrote:So, what's with steel blades and explosives being a bad combo? Copper knives for EOD use are still being made today.

Less chance of creating a spark when cutting fuse material and working with explosives compared to steel bladed tool. However, this Copper-bladed Wire Jack has a steel frame and steel finger guard which may account for why we don't see more of these.

bestgear wrote:

oregon wrote: I've micro-sealed the cleaned and renewed surface so that it cannot rust or corrode. A real gem.

I'm wondering if you could describe that process as I'm unfamiliar it. Thank you in advance.

My process (working with surgical gloves and lots of ventilation):

1. Remove rust, crust and worst surface issues with naval jelly, fine abrasives, brass brush, steel polish and copper cleaner (ammonia based).

2. Clean with near pure rubbing alcohol.

3. Paint finger guard.

4. Apply liberal tuffglide, let sit, remove excess TG with soft Cotten cloth.

5. Tiny bit of mineral oil to pivot via bent paper clip.


A bit of info on why copper alloy makes sense for explosive tools (no spark & non-magnetic): https://laststandonzombieisland.com/tag/eod-knife/

I'm not an electrician but I work with big electricity when we flake corn to feed cattle. I went out and looked at my fuses and the have two types of ends. Copper or aluminum. Never really paid that much attention. These are fuses for 200-400 hp motors. Every fuse panel has copper clips that the fuse snaps into. I assume there is a reason.

oregon wrote:

bestgear wrote:

oregon wrote: I've micro-sealed the cleaned and renewed surface so that it cannot rust or corrode. A real gem.

I'm wondering if you could describe that process as I'm unfamiliar it. Thank you in advance.

My process (working with surgical gloves and lots of ventilation):

1. Remove rust, crust and worst surface issues with naval jelly, fine abrasives, brass brush, steel polish and copper cleaner (ammonia based).

2. Clean with near pure rubbing alcohol.

3. Paint finger guard.

4. Apply liberal tuffglide, let sit, remove excess TG with soft Cotten cloth.

5. Tiny bit of mineral oil to pivot via bent paper clip.


A bit of info on why copper alloy makes sense for explosive tools (no spark & non-magnetic): https://laststandonzombieisland.com/tag/eod-knife/

Another tuf-glide disciple! Great stuff IMHO.

Thanks Oregon, very helpful and good to know