All About Pocket Knives

Are German Eye Brand good quality? I have been looking online for awhil and they seem to be a fair price. What made me start looking is that they have carbon blades and do come in stag.( ithink its european, but still stag) i can not find info on them. A couple of books I have contain conflicting info. I cant find a web site for them. I'm looking at a mini trapper .

Eye Brand is made these days by Olbertz, who also makes Bulldog and some Hen & Rooster knives. The quality is fine for a using knife, but has slipped a little from days gone by.

A Bulldog Brand would be a little more economical, and a Hen & Rooster would be a little better fit / finish. But if you find the model you want in an Eye Brand and the price is right; I'm sure you will be happy with it.

Try looking for info on "Carl Schlieper." That is the name they are listed under in Goin's Encyclopedia of Cutlery Markings.

I have seen some nice older knives in carbon steel made by them.
I don't know anything about any new ones. With all the knives being made in china these days I would really want to be sure where something is made before I buy a brand I am unfamiliar with.

Someone will probably be along soon who can tell you more about them.
Dale

See, someone did come along & typed faster than I did.

Welcome to AAPK EricKY! Got an Eye Brand Smooth Bone MiniTrapper myself and I really like it.

Fit and finish is very good, snaps shut like a bear trap, the carbon steel gets very sharp.

Well worth the price.

Yes, the German Eye pocket knives are made in Solingen, Germany. I have bought a few to resell over the past few months. All of them have had a very nice fit and finish and are very sharp right out of the box. I like 'em.

James

I forgot to include this pic of a nice German Eye Half Congress in my last post.

James

Thanks. I was really curious about the fit and finish. I had read from one dealer that the fit and finish wasnt that great but okay for a work knife. Then I came across some European stag from a dealer I have done business with several times and he is only asking $41.50. Thought it was heck of a deal. He also has that smoothe bone minitrapper that you have in the picture. Thats a nice looking knife also. My problem is even if its a user I want good quality.

EricKy wrote:Thanks. I was really curious about the fit and finish. I had read from one dealer that the fit and finish wasnt that great but okay for a work knife. Then I came across some European stag from a dealer I have done business with several times and he is only asking $41.50. Thought it was heck of a deal. He also has that smoothe bone minitrapper that you have in the picture. Thats a nice looking knife also. My problem is even if its a user I want good quality.

What's wrong with the quality of my brown smooth bone?

I have collected, bought and sold Eye Brands for several years. I got my first one in the mid 1960s and it was well used when I acquired it. I still use it on my occasional deer hunt.
I can say without hesitation that the carbon steel on the old Eyes was some of the best ever. It was a little brittle but was second to almost none in edge holding ability. Just don't try to pry any paint cans open with it. On all but the extermely old knives, brown bone was a sure sign that the steel was stainless. The stainless used on the old or early knives is very good but I have never known or met anyone who knew what the specific stainless might be. I do not know anything about the current stainless steel.
Old in Eye Brand terms is from the 1950s or 1960s up through the 1970s and in some patterns, into the very early 1980s. I have seen only a small handfull of Eyes that actually came from the 1950s.
The group from next few years (later 1980s and 1990s) were poorly tempered and would barely cut a popcicle stick. I am told that the quality of the steel has improved in recent years.
My buddy who does cut tests on cardboard says that the old ones cut right up there with the best of them .
For practical purposes, the 'old' ones will have an etch with two eyes included. The tang stamp will be either a straight line stamp, and I'll try to attach a photo of it, or the eye logo with some wording that can vary. If you can get either of those two tang stamps with a two eye etch, then you will be getting a great knife for the collection or a fine user. They had some great stag and likewise some great bone. I have had only one report of trouble with their cel, and then only in one design which I almost never see these days.
The newer ones will have only one eye in the etch and another stamped on the tang. As I say, I concentrate on the 'older' ones and I have only one or two of the one eye knives in my collection. I believe that the newer knives are priced more reasonably than the older, as would be expected.
There have been almost no articles written on Eyes but if you can get The Best of Knife World 1993, there is a fine article by a man named Joe Dobbs that covers Eye Brands in some detail.

Paladin wrote:I can say without hesitation that the carbon steel on the old Eyes was some of the best ever. It was a little brittle but was second to almost none in edge holding ability.

I have a couple old Eyes that I picked up in lot buys as parts knives. One in particular has a broken backspring, but the quality of the steel in the blade is amazing. I have been trying to find a frame I can put the blade in ever since.

It seems to me that some of the older carbon steel has a feel to it that is unique. Those that feel that way seem to take a super edge & hold it. That is the feeling I get from the old Eye Brand steel.

Dale

What's wrong with the quality of my brown smooth bone? [/quote]


No nothing is wrong with that knife. I really like it. When I was speaking of quality I wasn't referring to that knife. I just meant that so often I hear its decent for a user. I want my user to be nice. That is a nice knife you have there . By all means I like it and wouldnt have a problem with it.

I read somewhere that the steel in the new ones are 1075??? Is this true? How does that compare to 1095 or Case CV?

1075 has .75% Carbon instead of .95% Carbon in 1095. It's not likely you'll notice the difference in a pocketknife.

Case CV has Chromium, Nickle, and Vanadium added (according to the A. G. Russell website) to improve hardness and offer a little rust resistance.

Bill

EricKy wrote:No nothing is wrong with that knife. I really like it. When I was speaking of quality I wasn't referring to that knife. I just meant that so often I hear its decent for a user. I want my user to be nice. That is a nice knife you have there . By all means I like it and wouldnt have a problem with it.

Sorry EricKy, I over-reacted.

I know what you mean by wanting a "nice" EDC...its a tough thing to decide, though. The 2 of the last 3 knives I have gotten as EDCs have turned out to be "too nice to use" for me.

I can't bring to putting them in my pocket, as much as I'd like to.

Could be that I'm just cheap...

hello to all, my dad (who dont leave the house without his truck keys and his knife) has a German Eye knife with a broke back spring. I think it is a Copperhead.
Is there a place to sent it to for repair?? what would be a fair price to pay. thanks for the help in advance.

Matt D

mattd wrote:hello to all, my dad (who dont leave the house without his truck keys and his knife) has a German Eye knife with a broke back spring. I think it is a Copperhead.
Is there a place to sent it to for repair?? what would be a fair price to pay. thanks for the help in advance.

Matt D

This would require someone to make a backspring or find a backspring that will fit. IMO, if a backspring can't be found a proper repair would require the making of 2 backsprings so that both blades have the same open and closing snap. 1 being very different is I myself can't stand it.
After making the backsprings they would need to be hardened and tempered into the mid 40's Rc. (rockwell hardness C scale) While removing the rocker pin in the center, it's possible the scale will be damaged. This is getting $$$, so consider the options.
Do some filework, new scales, other metals.
Titanium is a good option as it's natural hardness is perfect for a backspring. The 64 alloy, grade 5 or officially the 6AL4V, which is 6% Aluminum, 4% Vanadium will make perfect backsprings as cut.

Best option is to find a spring, it's an expensive repair to make one and a good knife maker can get the rocker pin out MOST of the time.
If you are going to spend the money to make some backsprings, then may as well dress it up fancy for just a little more.
One of the guys here may help you, Muskrat Man, Overt, Agteacher2 and a couple others. I am swamped, backed up due to shoulder surgery and can't even think about doing my own backsprings on a stockman I got dirt cheap until next spring (March+) sometime.

Some very useful insights into knife repair, Hukk.

I'm planning to have some restoration, myself, (on my knife, not me) and your info. is good to know, especially when estimates come up and customers (like me) have no idea what's involved.

Edgewise wrote:Some very useful insights into knife repair, Hukk.

I'm planning to have some restoration, myself, (on my knife, not me) and your info. is good to know, especially when estimates come up and customers (like me) have no idea what's involved.

Your welcome, best to find a backspring, but there is a lot to think about if you can't get the part. Making a part won't be cheap, there is a lot to think about and if a guy has all the equipment to do all of that, then the rates are going to be higher. If you have an oven to heat treat, tank with oil heated to 130F, and temper, there goes 13 amps at 220v, a forge, depends on the fuel but all need to be relined at some point. Now, we haven't even thought about machining (recommend) the part or forming it.