All About Pocket Knives

Probably a discussion wore out. I've just recently become a slipjoint convert. Though I've had a few along the way my collecting has taken a serious jump in the last couple of months. Most of my collection is fairly new to new production with a few exceptions in the mix. I carry a yellow handled Case CV everyday. Most of the knives I purchased were for collecting purposes.

I have knives in Pearl, Stag, Bone, and Delrin. I'm really concerned about the Pearl because I just recently purchase a Cripple Creek limited edition moose in pearl with the back spring and bolster highly decorated.

My concern is storage. How do you recommend care for the handle material mentioned? It has been suggested to me that I wipe them down with a thin coat of mineral oil and let them sit overnight. Then take a clean cloth and removing any excess that is on the knife.

I have the Tuff Cloth that I've been wiping my blades down with. I've actually wiped the blade channels down with a thin coat of oil.

I have some Renaissance wax that I've not tried. Looks to me like it would be a cleaner way of storing the knives but I'm not sure as to how well (long term) it will protect the knives.

Hi Tim welcome to AAPK. You'll find a Great buncha knowledgable guys here who will always help.
Heres a great thread on knife care and storage I find it helpful, hope you do.

http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... php?t=1539

Renaissance wax is great stuff!
It even helps prevent fingerprinting of the blades, so they say. I use it a lot & love it.

Dale

Let me ask you this, I understand the protection of wax, but what about materials such stag or bone. Is there not some need to keep these item treated with something like mineral oil to stop shrinkage?

I think Renaissance wax is recommended for bone & stag. I just finished a stag handled folder this evening and the last thing I did was wipe the stag down with Ren wax. I didn't wipe the blade & bolsters yet because I wanted to get some pics first and it sometime causes a glare on the blades.

I also use carnauba wax on bone, stag & wood. I have a block of it that I apply with a loose buffing wheel and then buff it with another loose buff that has no wax on it. You have be careful as it is easy to get too much carnauba on something and then you have to hand buff it off. Kind of a pain.

Dale

Hi Tim.
Most here reccomend a yearly 24hr soak in food grade mineral oil for bone and stag. Being new to collecting I have not done this yet but plan to soon.
My question on Ren-Wax is how easy is it to remove. I plan on ordering a complete care kit from ilikeknives soon, i'll let you know how it goes.
heres the kit
http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... gory_id=87
Right now I use a tuff cloth on the blades and handles and tuf-glide on the joints.
btw i'm shilohreb on the other forums, we've spoken before.

tank ; In one post you said you are SLOW. But you sure have a good eye for knives man. I do also envy you talent of words and computer stuff.
That MY COLLECTION link is SUPER man.

Sorry if I'm coming off stupid here but I've read so many different ways over the net. Some are saying they simply clean the knife and handle material and coat in the wax. Does the wax itself have some properties that keep the handle material from shrinking? If it does not and you do the 24hr soak, how can you then apply the wax? Looks like the mineral oil would interfere with the wax.

Hi TimW... I would hold off on any cleaning treatment until we get a full report back from justold52 on the effectiveness of his revolutionary mineral oil jacuzzi process .

But seriously, I think you have to fully remove the oil before putting wax on otherwise it will be a mess. I would just gently clean them. You might use the soak on a handle that looks like it is starting to deteriorate. I have never actually tried it myself though. s-k

TimW ; I will help you.
There are many ways and products out their and most of them are good.
You have many different handles too.
This is why so many ways to store your knife.
You have to match the handles or scales to match the storing.

When it comes to leather, think. They spend lots of time and chemicals to remove the oil out of the hide. YES. Some oil will make then turn black. I have not use mineral oil on old ones. This mit work well I have not done this yet. So I would not use oil to help preserve a leather handle. But I sure would oil the joints of steel. On the same knife. If you ever went ice fishing you know any oil on your gloves will make them get cold fast. So mink oil would not be good. Use wax for that. The glove will stay soft and not attract the cold when waxed. If you have an Italian dress coat you can use mink oil to keep it soft. Most dress coats are for looks not to keep warm on the ice.

Celluloid handles should not be stored with other knives. Do not use polish on them.(the handles that is) Just use Ren Wax. Store all cell handles to gather. I use Tuf-Glide oil on the joints first then just Ren Wax them. I also keep them dry out of sun light in a glass case so I can see them. NOT much good to have sexy knives that you can not see. JMO.
Stag handles; If you oil them I fell they well swell up in time and split by the pins. Polish them if you want with a polish (I use FLITZ and SIMICHROME polish) then whip clean and Ren Wax the stage. Again stag was a living thing so oil would not be good. Same with real bone.
Both Flitz and Simichrome work real good on any kind of metal too.

Mother of perl you can polish and oil joints Blow the out clean then Ren Wax.

I know will after I polish a knife then oil it and blow out with an air compressor to remove any left over polish between the scales and bolsters and in the springs. Then Ren Wax. I have not found a thing on a knife yet that Ren Wax will hurt.

I hope this helps you. Many others here have their own way to clean and store knives. It is allways ezer to ask so do not fell bad about asking here.