All About Pocket Knives

OK, I'm pretty sure I know where the four visible pins went, but how did you deal with the two spring pins in the former rear bolster? (I think there's two) And while you're at it, what did you do to the other four pins exactly?

Does hiding the pins reduce the strength of the knife in any way?

I wish you'd done this one for the repair area. $4.00 to $80.00(?) in a few hours?

I have a Buck 500 that's been abused that I can try some of your tricks on. And lastly where did you learn this technique?

Hey Al,
The two spring holer pins that used to be in the rear bolster were removed and replaced with longer ones which I peened heads on. The handle retaining pins were pulled, the rocker pin was peened just as the spring holder pins. I don't think hiding pins hurts the strength of the knife. Good luck on your buck 500, but most of all- have fun! The rear bolster delete is another one of my trademarks, kinda like the brass lanyard hole, so I can't give away every little detail.

BTW, I like what you done with the pictures, very classy

MM, sorry I asked you for trademark processes. Can you tell us how to put handles on with "blind pins". I think that's one of the things done on this knife that most customizers are doing.

Maybe you'll show this on another knife that doesn't require your secret no-bolster conversion.

You did a great job with this 110, what's next?

No problems Al, The pinless construction is easier than pinning the scales. I have a rebuild in order for a Case seahorse whittler shortly with concealed pins (for the KF.com roundtable), so I'll do a pinless tutorial for you fellas (providiing I can remember and don't get carried away ), hows that? It is easier in a sense to do them without pins, but pinning them adds more to the knife and is a longer slower going process, which I don't mind. I'll finish up this elk handled 110 tonight and get started on that seahorsie tommorow