All About Pocket Knives

I recently discussed this with a regular client and got to thinking that others may find value in this as well. Many people don't understand how the various qualities of a set of stag handle slabs can affect the outcome of the finished product. Generally the wider and flatter the better. I see so many knives with the majority of the stag's "bark" or "texture" obliterated because of lack of knowledge of thinning these slabs to the fullest extent from the bottom and preserving all the natural aspects of the stag and they end up with a handle 3-4 times thicker than that of the bolster thickness.

I owe thanks to Charlie Campagna (AAPK member "upnorth") for opening my eyes early on in my career to the superior look, feel, and pocket friendlyness of what he calls "Sheffield stag". The old time Sheffield cutlers used to thin their stag from the bottom allowing the texture and "bark" to run from end to end with little molestation to the stag's original look and texture. These comparison photos and captions will help to explain my point. If you have any questions regarding this, feel free to ask.

If you have knives customized or even customize knives yourself and are considering stag for your next project; take into consideration what you want that knife's handle to look and feel like after the work is complete. Choosing proper stag is a key choice in making the most of your knife and your money. Not only does it make a nicer looking knife in your pocket or collection but being clear on handle preference makes the work much easier on the cutler who is doing it.

We have 3 pieces of stag A, B and C all look good, right?


Here are the same pieces turned on edge. A) The best slab to have. It has uniform thickness throughout it's length. B) what I call "swayed stag". C) What I call bulged stag.


Now providing thickness and width is correct and suitable, slab (A) will be fit from the bottom side to lose as little texture as possible and a nice uniform thickness set of handles will result. Although (B) will have to be cut from one end (on the bark side) to fit the bolster ending in a highly tapered handle with general loss of 1/3 to 1/2 of the texture. If the knife hans bolsters on either end you will end up with a flat handle but a very small amount of texture in the very center surrounded by hafted smooth white areas where all the bark had to be removed to fit the thickness of the bolsters. Lastly, (C) will also be fit from the bottom until the ends meet the thickness of the bolsters (providing thickness and width is correct) but the center of the handle will be MUCH thicker creating a "bulged" handle.



In the end this is what you'll have at the butt end of your knife if it is of a barehead design.

Great info Kaleb, thanks for posting this! Are you starting with stag rounds or buying slabs?
The reason I ask is, the rounds i've worked with tend to yield 2 fairly straight and uniform pieces from the sides and 1 swayed piece (inside) and 1 bulged piece (outside) from each round. In any case, the straighter the piece I start with, the better the slabs turn out. The problem i've run into, is that some rounds just don't seem to yield well at all. Any advice on reading difficult rounds before cutting? In the past, i've resorted to cutting these rounds into shorter pieces and using the resulting slabs as channel inlays. Also, any advice on making a good first cut? That always seems to be the hardest one for me.
Thanks, WB

Very nice work!! I've been working with stag ever since i made my first custom for myself. The natural bends, curves and roundness is very challenging. The material is foremost to the knife at hand....in my case. I have been working elk as the hafting reveals an almost ivory appearence still holding to the natual aspect ...if you do it right....then the other side....?
Been wanting to refurbish some grips on my Ruger, but the wide and thin comes into play....Have you ever worked moose.....seems there is some ample material to work with....? OK .....you did ask for questions... thanks

Craig

whitebuffalo58 wrote:Great info Kaleb, thanks for posting this! Are you starting with stag rounds or buying slabs?
The reason I ask is, the rounds i've worked with tend to yield 2 fairly straight and uniform pieces from the sides and 1 swayed piece (inside) and 1 bulged piece (outside) from each round. In any case, the straighter the piece I start with, the better the slabs turn out. The problem i've run into, is that some rounds just don't seem to yield well at all. Any advice on reading difficult rounds before cutting? In the past, i've resorted to cutting these rounds into shorter pieces and using the resulting slabs as channel inlays. Also, any advice on making a good first cut? That always seems to be the hardest one for me.
Thanks, WB

WB, I've worked from both it just depends on the job. I have an elk rack I need to cut up, I can do a pictorial on reading stag and getting the most from your rack and the right cuts to make if it is of interest to anyone.

Normally when you center click a round if it's from the main beam youll get a "bulge" slab and a "swayed" slab then the next piece you slice you can match up the two. On ideal elk racks the larger flatter times make the nicest slabs becuase they are large, straight and flat. I can cover more on this in the pictorial.

Maybe some you tube videos will be in order to fully explain things?

blademaker wrote:Very nice work!! I've been working with stag ever since i made my first custom for myself. The natural bends, curves and roundness is very challenging. The material is foremost to the knife at hand....in my case. I have been working elk as the hafting reveals an almost ivory appearence still holding to the natual aspect ...if you do it right....then the other side....?
Been wanting to refurbish some grips on my Ruger, but the wide and thin comes into play....Have you ever worked moose.....seems there is some ample material to work with....? OK .....you did ask for questions... thanks

Craig

Craig, I have limited experience with moose but I can show you how to get suitable slabs of elk for single action pistol grips if you have a full rack to cut from. I have made a set for my Ruger single six out of weathered sheds that look almost like fissured elephant ivory.

Good info Kaleb!
I like that “Sheffield stag” look especially on smaller knives.
Henckels was also a master of this type of stag cutting.

However, I have customers, (as I am sure you do as well), who like very thick stag handles. This brings a different set of challenges especially when installing “swayed” stag.

Great info.
Thanks for posting.

orvet wrote:Good info Kaleb!
I like that “Sheffield stag” look especially on smaller knives.
Henckels was also a master of this type of stag cutting.

However, I have customers, (as I am sure you do as well), who like very thick stag handles. This brings a different set of challenges especially when installing “swayed” stag.

Great info.
Thanks for posting.

Absolutely right Dale, I've had several customers who have arthritus ect that require a much thicker handle to use comfortably. If they don't send bulge stag, well then you've just got to bite the bullet and just haft away some of that bark to satisfy the customer. Each client is different, that's what keeps you on your toes

Quote: Maybe some you tube videos will be in order to fully explain things?

That'd be outstanding, Kaleb! I'd dang sure watch it! And, any other video you'd care to put together!
Thanks for the additional info, WB

muskrat man wrote: I have an elk rack I need to cut up, I can do a pictorial on reading stag and getting the most from your rack and the right cuts to make if it is of interest to anyone.


Maybe some you tube videos will be in order to fully explain things?

Mark

Stag cutting pictorial
http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... 38&t=27586