Howdy Ken,
I know what you mean about the SS blades, they can be troublesome to hold an edge for whittlin', IMO. ... I prefer the carbon steel blades but do and have used SS blades to carve with, and as Gino's neighbor stated, the thinner the blade the better for whittlin'.Thinner = less resistance for the blade to cut through the wood...of course, thinner means more brittle too, and if yer carvin' some hard woods, you can chip or break the blade easily.
Bevels play an important role in how well a knife will carve... TJ, that may be why your knife won't whittle well, it can be razor sharp, but has too much resistance, short bevel, and can't slice easily through the wood for the angle you're holding it at. Removing the factory bevel completely, or laying the blade flat when sharping it, makes for smooth, easy slicing through the wood. Try taking a pocketknife you don't mind messin' up a bit, just in case you over do it

and keep one blade with the factory type bevel and sharpen another blade by laying it flat to the stone or grinding wheel, and remove the bevel. You will see a world of difference in how easily the blade with "no bevel" or elongated bevel carves in comparison to the blade with the short, factory bevel. There is far less resistance for the blade to slice through the wood.
There are as many ways to sharpen as their are people who own knives...try different methods, pick one you like and stick with it. And as was taught to me, there are two criteria that need to be met to get a razor sharp edge, "first, create a wire burr, then remove it." Basically, you create the burr by using a stone or grinding wheel, and you remove it, by stropping. Always, trying to match the exact angle (bevel) on both sides. ANd if you do use power, such as a grinding wheel, remember, HEAT is your enemy. You do not want to BLUE the blade, or you have altered (ruined) the temper of the blade. Power is much faster, but can also mess a knife up faster. Hand sharpening can take a long while to get results, but you won't burn up a blade.
One old 'lil trick is to take a marker and mark the bevel you desire. You just remove all the metal you marked, on both sides, works pretty good.
I'm no expert sharpener by any means, and have ruined, or altered

many a knife by trial and error. In the end, like anything else, practice , practice, practice, and you will fall into a comfortable method for sharpening your knives that suits you best.
Best of luck to you
