All About Pocket Knives

hey guys i just recieved my new stag canoe. the 70' 10 dot model. it was nasty and i got it for 80$!!! the handles and everything cleaned up to perfection! i mean theyre nice. the blades wouldnt open at first but now theyre snappin hard, all the rust came off blades with no pits at all. but theyre discolored, how can a shine them without remeving metal? it looks to never be sharpened!!! pics tomorrow, before and after!

A whole lot depends on what you mean by discolored.
Are there stains? Are there spider webs or pepper spots? Is it just patina?

If you really want a little help...show us a picture or two BEFORE you do any cleaning.

Usually, with older knives, I go with a mineral oil bath, as it is harmless, to slough off the surface stuff, rejuvenate the scales, and lube it a bit...blow the excess out of nooks and crannies with canned air, wipe it off with a soft cotton or microfiber cloth...and then decide if there are more aggressive steps to go with after that.

JMO, of course. Others may feel differently.

Bill

i really had trouble with the camera! but i tried to get a few good ones. all of it looks to be a patina. just dark areas on the blades that are smooth, np pits at all. cleaned the handles and bolsters already. i have a before pic too. it had never been sharpened and has an original factory shine to the parts thats arent darkened, looks like its never been used. to rubs from openeing blades. im pretty new collector but i might have done good on this one.

more...

couple more...first one is the before pic...after wiping the surface rust and grime off it only has a dark coloring to some of the blade. none of it is pitted it dont show in the pic too good but the brown looking spots in the pics are really just the discoloration and its alot better then the pics show.

There's a product called Metal-Glo I've been using for about 15 years or more and will be just what you need to make that knife look brand new again. After using that I use another product that's 100% pure silicone and I completly soak it and give it a good bath with that stuff, although the silicone I use can't be found at any store or bought from the shelf. I have to buy it by the case.

I've been cleaning , sharpening and restoring knives professionally now for over 15 years and what i've mentioned her should do just what you're needing. Also if you're experienced with a buffer, that would be the best way, but do not attempt to use the buffer it if you're not, you will do more harm than good.

I hope this will be of some help to you.

bigben

Hey,
I sell many different products at my AAPK store, but after looking at your knife, I really don't think any polish will help your knife until the very last stage of rerpairing the scratches and scrapes shown in your pics. I also have a product called "buff sticks" that are used by professional conservators for just such problems. I too was skeptical of them until I tried actually USING them, and here it what they will and won't do. Let me further say that the condition of the dasmage directly relates to the amount of time you'll need to spend repairing the damage, and NO product will repair deep gouges and abuse, period.
The buff sticks however, have three different "grits" and one uses them "backwards to frowards" as it were. That is to say, you use them with the LEAST amount of grit poissible to remove and repair scrapes and damage. A complete set of instructions come with them and if you want more pricing info, email me at [email protected] and I will fwd more info on price per, shipping etc. They are re;latively inexpensive, that is to say I know they are much less than $5.00 each. I and others have used them to satisfaction when NO POLISH or any other product will do. I hope this helps.-Glenn
PS, I will be listing this product any many other care and cleaning products and many more collectible knives in June, right after my move toi my new house. Appx June 15th, keep your eyes open !!!-GL