All About Pocket Knives

Day 7

STEP 17 - Hand Sand Bevel and Flat Of The Blade
Sanding our blades by hand involved using the right type of sandpaper to smooth our metal surfaces, remove imperfections, and prepare it for finishing. We learned it's crucial to select the appropriate sandpaper grit for the task, starting with coarser grits for material removal and progressing to finer grits for polishing. We also learned that proper technique, including even pressure and following the same grain, is important to avoid scratches and achieve a smooth finish.
Step 17A - 120-grit on the bevel
Step 17B - 220-grit on the bevel and on the flat
Step 17C - 400-grit on the bevel and on the flat
Our instructor taught us these key steps to success with hand sanding metal:
• Prepare our blades by cleaning all surfaces thoroughly to remove any dirt, rust, or dykem. To do this I used coarser grit sandpaper (60-grit) to remove these.
• Choose the right sandpaper for the job by using 120-180 grit for smoothing and gradually moving to finer grits like 220-400 for finishing.
• Sand in a grain-following direction by applying even pressure and sand in the direction of the metal's grain to minimize scratching.
• Use a sanding block to help maintain the proper contour which prevents the sandpaper from digging in, especially when sanding edges.
• Work in sections and hand sand the metal in overlapping sections, ensuring even coverage and smooth transitions.
• Use water or a lubricant (like Windex) to keep the metal cool, minimize dust, and improve the sanding process.
• Progress through each grit and change to the next finer grit when the previous grit's scratches are no longer visible.
• We are not after a highly polished finish so the use of very fine grits (e.g., 600-grit or higher) is not needed but we might want to consider using specialized metal polishing compounds.

My takeaways and tips for success are to avoid applying too much pressure which can create deep scratches and make the sanding process more difficult and keep the sandpaper and the metal surface clean to avoid clogging and ensure efficient sanding. I went to the men’s room and washed my blade with soap and water before changing to the next higher grit and the results were simply amazing.
I also learned that metal and wood sandpaper differ primarily in the type of abrasive material used and their durability. Wood sandpaper often uses softer abrasives like garnet or aluminum oxide, while metal sandpaper typically uses harder abrasives like silicon carbide or aluminum oxide, chosen for their ability to withstand the demands of sanding harder materials. Additionally, metal sanding often requires a coarser grit progression to remove rust, paint, or other imperfections, while wood sanding can utilize a wider range of grits, from coarse for shaping to fine for finishing. Lastly, the backing on metal sandpaper is designed to be more durable and withstand the abrasive nature of metal surfaces than the backing on wood sandpaper.
STEP 18 – Attach The Covers To The Blade

Attaching handles to a knife blade is a crucial step in knifemaking, impacting both functionality and aesthetics. The process involves securing the covers that were prepared in Step 11 to the tang of the knife using both pins and epoxy.

Step 18A - Cut and bevel 1-end of 6 pins that are long enough to pass through both covers and the blade tang by 1/8” (0.125”).

Step 18B - Insert 2 pins at opposite end of one of the covers by hand or with a hammer if necessary so they are flush with the “x” side of the cover.

Step 18C - Prepare the 2-part 5-minute epoxy by using an amount approximately 1” in diameter and mixed by hand thoroughly.

Step 18D - Apply the mixed epoxy to the proper tang of the knife and the mating surface of the first cover ensuring thorough coverage.

Step 18E - Mate the tang of the knife and the first cover using the 2 pins that were inserted in Step 18B.

Step 18F - Prepare the 2-part 5-minute epoxy by using an amount approximately 1” in diameter and mixed by hand thoroughly.

Step 18G - Apply the mixed epoxy to the proper tang of the knife and the mating surface of the second cover ensuring thorough coverage.

Step 18H - Mate the tang of the knife and the second cover using the 2 pins that were inserted in Step 18B.

Step 18I - Insert the remaining 4 pins through the first cover, the tang of the knife and the second cover.
Step 18J - Secure and clamp the assembly together using vice-grips to ensure a tight fit and allow the epoxy to cure.

Another great step by step explanation Tom. .

Thanks Floyd, 1 week to go!

Last day of class to finish my 440C sheep foot fixed blade with black canvas micarta. I hope to wrap us my journal in the next few days, stay tuned!

Day 8

Step 19 – Shape The Covers Shaping knife covers involves a multi-step process of grinding, sanding, and polishing to achieve the desired handle shape and smoothness. This includes initial shaping with coarser grits (like 50-grit) to remove material and finer grits (like 220-grit and above) for smoothing and refinement. Hand sanding and potentially polishing with compounds and cloths are also part of the finishing process.

Step 19A – Grind the edges of the cover The edges of the covers were ground to the knife tang thereby revealing the full profile of the blade and installed covers. This was accomplished by starting with a 50-grit belt to remove most of the material and progressed to 120-grit, 220-grit and finally 400-grit for smoothing and refinement. When possible, the grinder with the large wheel was employed but for tighter areas of the profile, the small wheel was used.

Step 19B – Draw a cover bevel witness line On the flat of the covers a bevel witness line was drawn to assist in grinding the bevel cover. The technique for drawing the line is known as thumb-scribing and is widely used in the carpentry trade.
Step 19C – Grind the cover bevel We used the grinder with a 50-grit belt to remove most of the bevel material to refine the handle's overall shape, paying attention to ergonomics and how it fit in our hand. My covers are micarta and I learned quickly that this material can be sensitive to heat so I avoided excessive pressure or prolonged contact with the grinder, especially at the higher grits. It took some time, but I also figured out that the grit I chose for the final finish affected the texture and appearance of the micarta. At first, I was using a coarser grit like 240 which left a more textured, grippy surface, while the finer grits like 400 and even 600 created a smoother, more polished look which is what I opted for.
Step 19D – Shape the cover We created smooth curves and transitions mostly with the small wheel attachment on the grinder for tighter areas and the large wheel attachment for more open areas. We were taught a technique called slack-belt sanding where the belt isn't pressed tightly against a platen to blend lines and create smooth transitions. We then finished shaping our covers with hand sanding using progressively finer grits (e.g., 120, 240, 400, 600 grit) for a smooth, even surface. Our instructor taught us to apply even pressure when hand-sanding to avoid uneven surfaces and blending lines and to use water regularly to check for imperfections during the shaping process.
Step 20 – Sharpen The Blade Sharpening a blade on a 2”x72” grinder involves using the abrasive action of the sanding belt to remove material from the blade's edge, creating a sharper angle. This process requires careful control of speed, pressure, and angle to achieve the desired sharpness and avoid damaging the blade. To begin the process, we were taught to securely hold the blade at the desired angle (usually around 20-25 degrees) against the wheel's surface and apply consistent, light pressure while moving the blade along the wheel's surface, maintaining the angle and as always, being mindful of heat buildup to avoid damaging the blade's temper. Our instructor demonstrated how paying attention to the formation of a burr, which is a thin wire edge along the blade's edge indicates that material is being removed evenly. After sharpening with the 120-grit belt we used a 400-grit belt to remove the burr and refine the edge. We tested the sharpness of the blade with a paper test or by cutting through a material to assess its effectiveness.
I have some hand sanding to complete and then polishing with Flitz polishing compound to finish my knife. I will then clean the micarta covers with rubbing alcohol and finish them with Renaissance wax. I will post final images of my knife when it is 100% complete in the next few days! Thank you for taking this journey with me, I hope you got as much out of the process as I did. It was a great life experience and I would encourage anyone with a similar opportunity to take the same path that I did. Peace!

To complete my knife I added the final process, Step 21 – Clean And Polish The Entire Knife. Properly cleaning and polishing a knife ensures its longevity, functionality, and aesthetic appeal. First, I washed the knife with soap and water using warm water and mild dish soap to wash the blade, scrubbing gently with a soft sponge from the spine towards the edge and rinsing the knife under running water to remove all soap residue. I dried the knife immediately and completely which ensured that all moisture was removed. The handles were then cleaned with a clean paper towel soaked in isopropyl alcohol.

The final polish was accomplished by applying a small amount of Flitz metal polish to a clean microfiber cloth and polishing the blade in circular motions to achieve a high sheen. This was done for about 5-minutes to ensure that all polish was removed and that a uniformed look was achieved. Lastly, a thin coat of Renaissance Wax was applied to the handles and wiped clean with a fresh paper towel.

And without further ado, here's my finished knife from my community college knife making experience! Is it without imperfections, no, but it's perfectly balanced in my hand, it feels good and it will function 100% as a knife. My instructor commented that it reminded him of an old mariners knife which is pretty much where I drew my design inspiration from; I'd say mission accomplished!

Looks excellent, Tom! And I'm happy to see the t-shirt you're wearing. Representin' the AAPK!

1967redrider wrote: ↑Wed Jul 23, 2025 2:16 pm Looks excellent, Tom! And I'm happy to see the t-shirt you're wearing. Representin' the AAPK!

always recruiting John

Tom, you done good. Good looking and functional. I bet it cuts! Does it have TOM for a tang stamp?

doglegg wrote: ↑Wed Jul 23, 2025 3:56 pm Tom, you done good. Good looking and functional. I bet it cuts! Does it have TOM for a tang stamp?

lol, no tang stamp Floyd but I’m hoping to see Pakistani knockoffs on the market very soon.

bestgear wrote: ↑Wed Jul 23, 2025 2:05 pm To complete my knife I added the final process, Step 21 – Clean And Polish The Entire Knife. Properly cleaning and polishing a knife ensures its longevity, functionality, and aesthetic appeal. First, I washed the knife with soap and water using warm water and mild dish soap to wash the blade, scrubbing gently with a soft sponge from the spine towards the edge and rinsing the knife under running water to remove all soap residue. I dried the knife immediately and completely which ensured that all moisture was removed. The handles were then cleaned with a clean paper towel soaked in isopropyl alcohol.

The final polish was accomplished by applying a small amount of Flitz metal polish to a clean microfiber cloth and polishing the blade in circular motions to achieve a high sheen. This was done for about 5-minutes to ensure that all polish was removed and that a uniformed look was achieved. Lastly, a thin coat of Renaissance Wax was applied to the handles and wiped clean with a fresh paper towel.

And without further ado, here's my finished knife from my community college knife making experience! Is it without imperfections, no, but it's perfectly balanced in my hand, it feels good and it will function 100% as a knife. My instructor commented that it reminded him of an old mariners knife which is pretty much where I drew my design inspiration from; I'd say mission accomplished!

My BCC Finished Knife 1.JPG

My BCC Finished Knife 2.JPG

My BCC Finished Knife 3.JPG

My BCC Finished Knife 4.JPG

That turned out great!
Jeff

Jeffinn wrote: ↑Fri Jul 25, 2025 1:58 pmThat turned out great

thank you, Jeff. For the 1st ever knife, I’m pleased with the outcome.

My negative observations:
- jimping could be more symmetrical
- horizontal control line could be straighter
- ricasso control line could be sharper
- edge should be flatter

My positive observations:
- the covers match perfectly including pins
- it is the sharpest knife I own hands down
- it matches the design from step 1
- it feels balanced and comfortable in my hand

I’ve got the bug, more to come.

bestgear wrote: ↑Wed Jul 23, 2025 4:02 pm

doglegg wrote: ↑Wed Jul 23, 2025 3:56 pm Tom, you done good. Good looking and functional. I bet it cuts! Does it have TOM for a tang stamp?

lol, no tang stamp Floyd but I’m hoping to see Pakistani knockoffs on the market very soon.

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

1967redrider wrote: ↑Fri Jul 25, 2025 9:41 pm

bestgear wrote: ↑Wed Jul 23, 2025 4:02 pm

doglegg wrote: ↑Wed Jul 23, 2025 3:56 pm Tom, you done good. Good looking and functional. I bet it cuts! Does it have TOM for a tang stamp?

lol, no tang stamp Floyd but I’m hoping to see Pakistani knockoffs on the market very soon.

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

X2

How did I miss this until now? This is excellent Tom, thank you so much for taking us along on your adventure.

I'd probably not do well in that environment, as I'd want to do things they way I taught myself (which is probably wrong).

Your knife looks great, can't wait to see what you do moving forward!

glennbad wrote: ↑Sat Aug 30, 2025 8:29 pm How did I miss this until now? This is excellent Tom, thank you so much for taking us along on your adventure.

I'd probably not do well in that environment, as I'd want to do things they way I taught myself (which is probably wrong).

Your knife looks great, can't wait to see what you do moving forward!

thanks Glenn, I’m working on a couple of paring knives right now

bestgear wrote: ↑Sat Aug 30, 2025 8:49 pm

glennbad wrote: ↑Sat Aug 30, 2025 8:29 pm How did I miss this until now? This is excellent Tom, thank you so much for taking us along on your adventure.

I'd probably not do well in that environment, as I'd want to do things they way I taught myself (which is probably wrong).

Your knife looks great, can't wait to see what you do moving forward!

thanks Glenn, I’m working on a couple of paring knives right now

A couple or a pare?

Good show all around

bestgear wrote: ↑Sat Aug 30, 2025 8:49 pm

glennbad wrote: ↑Sat Aug 30, 2025 8:29 pm How did I miss this until now? This is excellent Tom, thank you so much for taking us along on your adventure.

I'd probably not do well in that environment, as I'd want to do things they way I taught myself (which is probably wrong).

Your knife looks great, can't wait to see what you do moving forward!

thanks Glenn, I’m working on a couple of paring knives right now

Good looking knives Tom.

#7 and #8 - still very much learning and I’m starting to sense that a perfect factory production finish probably isn’t within my patience level but I’m pleased with my results. The push dagger was cut from 1/4” 8670 steel and is stout and heavy. The Santoku was commissioned by my wife and is light and well balanced crafted with 80CRV2 steel. Both have white camel shin bone and 1/4” pins. Onto #9!

Excellent combo, Tom.

They both look good Tom. You need to get a Cosgrove stamp to mark them with

doglegg wrote: ↑Sat Oct 25, 2025 11:23 pmYou need to get a Cosgrove stamp to mark them with

Thanks John & Floyd - a fellow student does laser engraving so they’ll be embellished with something soon.

All of your knives look Great!

After 2 semesters (24 weeks or 96 hours) I have produced 16 tools with increasing level of efficiency, quality and satisfaction. Thirteen of these are destined to be sheathed when I learn leather crafting starting in January. Enjoy!

Pretty impressive, Tom....you seem to be a natural