All About Pocket Knives

Guitar, I use my Lansky on smaller blades. However, on some of the smaller ones, like the pen blade on a peanut, I also run into the problem of the hone hitting the clamp. I also really like the Spyderco Sharpmaker.

Dan

Got several different stones none were bought new some were free found in junk boxes at sales--one i used yesterday on a Parker-Imai that stone my mother gave me that came from the stone on her patio in Poplar Bluff Mo.--got a set of smooth sticks another rummage find also have a piece of soap stone that i picked up on a job years ago that will tune a blade up very quick--in the kitchen i've got a old Russell steel that can't be bought for no kinda $$ got that for .50 at a rummage sale. Always wanted to try a Lansky but just can't bring myself to spend the cash on one--worse comes to worse i've been known to spit on the edge of the sidewalk to get put an edge on something

All the mentioned systems work just fine for sharpening. I have a Lansky that I bought 20 years ago, that while the stones are dished, it still works fine. I also use bench stones, diamond hones and even power hones & strops. Japanese water stones are great but are too pricey for me. I like about a 20 degree bevel on most knives and I like to polish the bevel to a mirror. I always finish with an old razor strop charged with green compound. I'd like to bring up a couple of points, though. For one thing, do not use lubricating oil on your stones. Use honing oil or even thread cutting oil or WD 40 to help keep your stone from clogging up. Also, you don't need to test the edge on your arm to see if it will shave, although I do this myself on occasion. Try looking at your edge with a magnifying glass to see how your bevel is progressing. Hold the glass up to your eye instead of near the work to see what your are doing. This will make it quite easy to adjust your angle and you can be sure when to move to the next grit, all the way to final polish. Also, while shaving sharp is cool, it isn't necessarily the best edge to have on a knife, as a steeper bevel will outlast an extremely shallow one, as there is more steel to back up (reinforce) the edge. JMHO

Gunstock Jack wrote:All the mentioned systems work just fine for sharpening. I have a Lansky that I bought 20 years ago, that while the stones are dished, it still works fine. I also use bench stones, diamond hones and even power hones & strops. Japanese water stones are great but are too pricey for me. I like about a 20 degree bevel on most knives and I like to polish the bevel to a mirror. I always finish with an old razor strop charged with green compound. I'd like to bring up a couple of points, though. For one thing, do not use lubricating oil on your stones. Use honing oil or even thread cutting oil or WD 40 to help keep your stone from clogging up. Also, you don't need to test the edge on your arm to see if it will shave, although I do this myself on occasion. Try looking at your edge with a magnifying glass to see how your bevel is progressing. Hold the glass up to your eye instead of near the work to see what your are doing. This will make it quite easy to adjust your angle and you can be sure when to move to the next grit, all the way to final polish. Also, while shaving sharp is cool, it isn't necessarily the best edge to have on a knife, as a steeper bevel will outlast an extremely shallow one, as there is more steel to back up (reinforce) the edge. JMHO

Thanks for the info jack, I check the sharpness on my arms way too much.

Yeah Johnny; it's embarassing goin' around with all those bald spots and stubble on your arm. I wanted to try it on my wife's leg, but she wouldn't stand still for it!!!

Gunstock Jack wrote:Yeah Johnny; it's embarassing goin' around with all those bald spots and stubble on your arm. I wanted to try it on my wife's leg, but she wouldn't stand still for it!!!

"Wouldn't stand still for it!!



Oh God Jack, you kill me. I don't care who you are, that's funny.

Interesting thread!
I'll write something later. Right now I'm actually busy...sharpening!

HOW ABOUT THE OLD CASE MOON STONES AND STICKS? I HAVE ONE OF THE STICKS THAT I CARRY ON HUNTING TRIPS AND I THOUGHT IT WORKED PRETTY GOOD FOR TOUCHING IT UP.

Gunstock Jack wrote:Also, while shaving sharp is cool, it isn't necessarily the best edge to have on a knife, as a steeper bevel will outlast an extremely shallow one, as there is more steel to back up (reinforce) the edge. JMHO

I had a rather lengthy conversation with C. Risner the other day and the subject of sharpening came up, he told the same thing.

Update:

I ended up returning the KME and got a Lansky. I replaced the thumb screw with a smaller hex screw, and am able to put a 20 degree edge on most of my smaller Bucks.

I still plan on getting a smaller flat head screw for it. I don't know why the manufacturer doesn't see the problem with the thumb screw getting in the way for a large number of blades.

One thing I noticed with the clamping systems that I havent heard mentioned. When clamping a small blade at the edge of the clamp, where the indents are, it's very easy to accidentally change the angle of the knife in the clamp if you press on the stone too hard, or bump the knife while youre handling or flipping the clamp ..... and when you first clamp it in, it isn't necessarily always perfectly parallel to the clamp. Exerting a little pressure, even when quite tight, can change the position of the blade in the clamp.

I've been exercising care to eyeball it straight, clamp it tight, and be gentle enough to avoid knocking the blade out of alignment.

Also: Good points about the oils, Jack. I didn't realize WD 40 could be used. Probably would work well to clean the stones too.

Josh P

I've had trouble with the blade slipping around as well. I tried a few different things and found that a small piece of blue painter's tape on the blade under the clamp helps hold it in position. It also keeps the clamp (and any grit on it) from scratching the blade.

I have also had trouble with small blades slipping around. I never thought of using a piece of tape, good idea, I will try it.

Dan

I find myself going back to one of these systems time after time. The Lansky to establish an edge, and the power hone to keep it there.

I wonder how these would do?.....anyone have any experience with these type sharpeners?

Those "stock removal" units work just fine on the steak knives, just before company comes.

I've always been afraid they'd remove too much metal. They do work, though.

I might have to try one.

I have used the carbide "V" type sharpeners.
They are fine for garden tools but I will not use them on good knives.
I saw too many knives that people messed up with those.
Sometimes the knife blade will chatter with that type sharpener.
When that happens the edge looks like a do-it-yourself serrated knife, but very erratic and not at all uniform.
My nephew brought me some knives of his to sharpen and one of them was really messed up from that type sharpener.

I use one in the garden for my hoe & winged weeder (or a machete) but I won't use them on a good knife that I want to keep a nice straight edge on.

Jack is right, IMHO. Even when used properly they remove a lot of metal.


Dale

Hmmmm....maybe I WON'T get one.....thanks for the info guys.

johnnie, I would just as soon use a file as one of those. In my opinion, nothing is quite as refined and advantages as a wide selection of stones.

I use a stone but just wanted to see what everyone thought about these type sharpeners....The first benchmade one looked pretty cool.
But after these bad reviews...NO THANKS!!
Thanks for the info guys...just another reason I love AAPK!!

Has anyone tried a CRKT Slide Sharp?

Loray M190 has served me well.

These aren't the best, but they are what I am using. Spyderco Triangle, Fallkniven DC4, Japanese waterstones, micromesh on leather backing, various strops

Depending on the metal. An average kitchen knife? a fine Arkansas stone and a leather strop or belt. While swishing the blade on the leather, be careful not to cut yourself. Take your time. I have also used two diamond sticks and always the leather last to polish the edge.