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Mike nothing really special about a 72 scout but for the fact it is such a special little knife. Got one myself. Good find.Meridian_Mike wrote:Just got this here Scout.
It needs some clean-up and oil. I might have to slip off to my shop after work.
Camillus Whittler 72 Scout 2.jpg
Camillus Whittler 72 Scout 4.jpg
Mike
LOL..... Magpie huh?jerryd6818 wrote:That's a good'ern Mike. Shine it up and the Magpie in me will come out.
Yep, I sorta knew that.... just poking at ya'.jerryd6818 wrote:You must have been out of town. I thought that was common knowledge.
Consider me poked.Meridian_Mike wrote:Yep, I sorta knew that.... just poking at ya'.jerryd6818 wrote:You must have been out of town. I thought that was common knowledge.
Mike
Thank you Greg. Looks about the same as the mark side except it has a crack that hasnt seperated yet. I didnt see the crack in the pics. The BIN was low enough I'd have bought it any way. I can take a pic of the pile side if you'd like.gsmith7158 wrote:David that's a pretty good looking first generation on the bottom there. Is the bone good on the pile side?
If I may, what is “zap a gap”? My first thought is super glue but I might be way off base! LOLgsmith7158 wrote:I'd put a drop of zap a gap in there and stabilize that crack.
It's pretty much the same thing but flows as little better than super glue. It gets down in that crack before it sets.WV Papaw wrote:If I may, what is “zap a gap”? My first thought is super glue but I might be way off base! LOLgsmith7158 wrote:I'd put a drop of zap a gap in there and stabilize that crack.
Thank you, sir. If I’d been a little more awake I’d probably thought of Googling it last nightgsmith7158 wrote:It's pretty much the same thing but flows as little better than super glue. It gets down in that crack before it sets.WV Papaw wrote:If I may, what is “zap a gap”? My first thought is super glue but I might be way off base! LOLgsmith7158 wrote:I'd put a drop of zap a gap in there and stabilize that crack.
David, I wasn't aware that it came in different viscosities. I'll have to check mine when I get home. By definition as viscosity pertains to a liquid, the higher the number the thicker it is so I would go with a low number.DM11 wrote:Greg I went to order some zap a gap and noticed their were several different viscosities available. Which one would you recommend?
You want the “pink” zap a gap. Sometimes it will be listed as thin. This is the one to use on those hairline or tight handle cracks. It is as thin as water and will wick into the crack.DM11 wrote:Greg I went to order some zap a gap and noticed their were several different viscosities available. Which one would you recommend?
Wade, I didn't know about the pink zap-a-gap. That's good info!Colonel26 wrote:You want the “pink” zap a gap. Sometimes it will be listed as thin. This is the one to use on those hairline or tight handle cracks. It is as thin as water and will wick into the crack.DM11 wrote:Greg I went to order some zap a gap and noticed their were several different viscosities available. Which one would you recommend?
Often I’ll squirt a few drops in to a 20 oz coke bottle top and use a tooth pick to brush tiny amounts at a time along the crack. It will wick right down to the bottom. Keep going until the crack is filled.
On a side note I used it one time in refinishing a rifle stock too. Instead of using water to raise the grain and then resanding, I brushed on a layer of the thin zap a gap, let it dry, sanded off what was on top of the wood and repeated. It worked great. Then I finished it off with an oil finish. It’s good stuff.
Gotta go hunt some up.Thank you Wade! I'll get some ordered.Colonel26 wrote:You want the “pink” zap a gap. Sometimes it will be listed as thin. This is the one to use on those hairline or tight handle cracks. It is as thin as water and will wick into the crack.DM11 wrote:Greg I went to order some zap a gap and noticed their were several different viscosities available. Which one would you recommend?
Often I’ll squirt a few drops in to a 20 oz coke bottle top and use a tooth pick to brush tiny amounts at a time along the crack. It will wick right down to the bottom. Keep going until the crack is filled.
On a side note I used it one time in refinishing a rifle stock too. Instead of using water to raise the grain and then resanding, I brushed on a layer of the thin zap a gap, let it dry, sanded off what was on top of the wood and repeated. It worked great. Then I finished it off with an oil finish. It’s good stuff.
Wow!! That is a nice one!!doglegg wrote:I know it says Remington, and I know it says R14 but we all know what it really is. And an advertiser to boot. Was able to get it for a $20 bill and am glad I did.DSCN4688.JPGDSCN4689.JPGDSCN4690.JPGDSCN4691.JPGDSCN4692.JPG
doglegg wrote:I know it says Remington, and I know it says R14 but we all know what it really is. And an advertiser to boot. Was able to get it for a $20 bill and am glad I did.DSCN4688.JPGDSCN4689.JPGDSCN4690.JPGDSCN4691.JPGDSCN4692.JPG
one down and 2 to go, But by then you will have found 3 more variations.jerryd6818 wrote:Floyd, for your hunting enjoyment, there are at least three variations of the R-14. Look for them. Collect all three.
