All About Pocket Knives

zp4ja wrote:Check this out. First time I heard of this. A double barreled 1911. Touted as being able to stop a bull. With 230 grain loads, you have 4140 grains in the 2 mated magazines. I think I would prefer a extended magazine that hangs a foot out of my 1911 over this personally. Instead, I would want a .50 Action Express if I thought I had to stop a bull with a handgun.
I think the cost like 6000 bucks for the standard model. Not personally interested in one. Just never have seen or heard of one and thought others may not have either.

Look at the links. This is not some photoshop prank.

http://www.arsenalfirearms.com/products ... rel-pistol#

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2hRyaa ... e=youtu.be

Jerry

........."holy mackerel, andy"............... ....................

There's no end to the foolishness people will resort to in terms of the gimmick.
Unfortunately it falls into the realm of firearms too. Too bad.
If ya want to kill a bull get a real gun.

Interesting novelty, but it's not bulls I'm worried about! I'll keep my S&W thank you.

Ken

thanx for showing that Jerry

Pretty much laughed my ass off when I saw that gun. I just thought that was interesting but certainly not my bag. Specs say weighs about 4 pounds on top of the novelty of it. Just bored today so I looked up some odd old and new gun designs.

Seen the new Mossberg Chainsaw? I saw another Mossberg the other day at the hardware store that was a tactical pump with a hand strap on the pump. WHAT???

here is the youtube zombie dude video. Pretty funny if you ask me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyTh4fPCDfI

http://www.mossberg.com/product/shotgun ... nsaw/50460

How about the triple barrel 12 gauge? I think this one runs $1000 plus but I could not find a price.

http://www.chiappafirearms.com/products/135

I will just keep my reliable Mossberg 500 12 gauge pump I have had for years that I bought for $200 and invest the money saved from not buying one of these in extra Double 00 buckshot.

Anyone heard of the Rhino? It is the revolver from the maker of the 3 barrel shotgun above (of course). The barrel fires from the BOTTOM CYLINDER, not the top cylinder.
There is a strict warning that a special grip is required when firing so you don't powder burn the hell out of your fingers when firing.

Like the others I posted, personally, no thanks.

http://www.chiappafirearms.com/products/75

Jerry

Traded into a milled norinco AK the other day and just got around to sighting it in. I've heard guys say these are some of the best shooting AK's out there, now I know why! This this shoots circles around my others. A nice 3 shot open sight group during the sight in procedure, made some final adjustments and I was shooting empty 12 ga hulls every shot rapid fire at 25 yards with the open sights. Needless to say I was impressed because my other AK's had me under the impression they were all 2-3" guns. Thankfully my ailment does not keep me from shooting, if I couldn't shoot OR work on knives I'd probably die LOL.

Disregard that lower hole, I was working on getting the proper elevation dialed in before I shot the group.

Sweet MM! Nice shooting. Been pondering an AK for awhile now myself. Or possibly a 6.8.

For a guy that knows nothing about them besides the fact they have been around forever and still used around the world, looking for something a little more umphh than the .223 AR I already have.

Hope you are doing well/better.

Regards, Jerry

I've got an old norinco sks its as ugly as home made sin, but it sure do shoot good. I don't remember rapid fire or slow fire except with the 45 pistol. We shot pop up silhouettes from 50 to 400 meters and to the best of my memory the targets popped up for a certain amount of time and you had to get as many as you could. That's been 50 yrs ago and I've got a case of CRS.

zp4ja wrote:Sweet MM! Nice shooting. Been pondering an AK for awhile now myself. Or possibly a 6.8.

For a guy that knows nothing about them besides the fact they have been around forever and still used around the world, looking for something a little more umphh than the .223 AR I already have.

Hope you are doing well/better.

Regards, Jerry

AKs are great if you get a good one. They will nearly all run like a top but there are definately differences in accuracy and fit/finish. I love my AK 10x more than the bushmaster I HAD, it just felt akward. The AK feels more like a rifle to me and the sound of one cycling just puts a grin on my face.

I have been wanting to find a SKS-M (the carbine they made that uses AK mags) for a while but just haven't picked one up yet.

Thanks MM!

I will be doing more research on an AK.

When you say Bushmaster, I assume you are referring to the AR-15. If so, to each his own as I love mine. I have the Bushmaster XM-15 with the A3 carry handle. The feel, balance, weight and accuracy is phenomenal, in my opinion. Sight distance provides me a clear sight picture without glasses for the tired eyes. I also find the right hand controls pretty damn easy to use as a left handed shooter.

Not saying ARs are better, just saying that out of the box, this feels like it was made for me. I think ARs and eventually an AK or two fill tasks/niches and a place in my safe, just like my AR-10.

Question please. Do AKs not hold the bolt open after the last round in the mag is shot? If so, is this on all AKs? Hopefully not as I am not sure I would like that too much personally.

Jerry

I feel like you only with the AK, it feels like it was made for me

I had a 16" XM-15 flat top with a carbine length quad rail. Pretty much set up like a semi auto M4 I hated how tall the scope or flip up sights had to be to avoid jamming your face against the stock to the point of being an annoyance. I also had a tendency to cant the rifle because I had a hard time alining my eye with the sights. I have seen others do this as well I think it may be more of an anatomy thing.

AKs generally do not lock open on the last shot, yugo mags will lock it back on the last shot but once the mag is removed the bolt rides home because the only thing holding it open is the bolt hitting on a flat spot on the follower. If you're set on bolt hold open in the traditional sense you might check out definitive arms they build models that lock open, have a bolt release, etc like an AR. They even build a 5.56 model with a mag well to use AR mags. I wanted one but they are pricey $1500+ but from what I understand they are one of the Cadillacs of modern AKs. They were using Russian receivers but since the sanctions our lovely president put on Russia I think they are using USA made parts now. I opted for a M1a instead because I wanted something with more range anyway. If you're a pistol caliber carbine guy they are even making an AK in 9mm with all those bells and whistles. I hope they bring one out in .45 ACP, then I might have to just grit my teeth and shell out some cash for one of those.

Here's a good watch on the Def. Arms AK that uses AR mags and is built to lock open, has a bolt release etc. I love the idea just not the price, I have gotten used to the operation of a standard AK so I do not find the difference in controls compared to an AR a detriment. Yes AR controls are very ergonomic and handily placed I will give them that. The AK is just a learning curve and with practice you can run one just about as efficiently as someone who is proficient with an AR. Plus yugo mags are cheap and they let you know when you're empty you just have to cycle the action after jamming a fresh mag in. Another 1/2-3/4 second before you're sending more rounds down range and you should be utilizing cover so I don't think less than 1 second will determine whether you live or die.

https://youtu.be/PAjidZr5D7o

muskrat man wrote:I feel like you only with the AK, it feels like it was made for me

I had a 16" XM-15 flat top with a carbine length quad rail. Pretty much set up like a semi auto M4 I hated how tall the scope or flip up sights had to be to avoid jamming your face against the stock to the point of being an annoyance. I also had a tendency to cant the rifle because I had a hard time alining my eye with the sights. I have seen others do this as well I think it may be more of an anatomy thing.

AKs generally do not lock open on the last shot, yugo mags will lock it back on the last shot but once the mag is removed the bolt rides home because the only thing holding it open is the bolt hitting on a flat spot on the follower. If you're set on bolt hold open in the traditional sense you might check out definitive arms they build models that lock open, have a bolt release, etc like an AR. They even build a 5.56 model with a mag well to use AR mags. I wanted one but they are pricey $1500+ but from what I understand they are one of the Cadillacs of modern AKs. They were using Russian receivers but since the sanctions our lovely president put on Russia I think they are using USA made parts now. I opted for a M1a instead because I wanted something with more range anyway. If you're a pistol caliber carbine guy they are even making an AK in 9mm with all those bells and whistles. I hope they bring one out in .45 ACP, then I might have to just grit my teeth and shell out some cash for one of those.

Here's a good watch on the Def. Arms AK that uses AR mags and is built to lock open, has a bolt release etc. I love the idea just not the price, I have gotten used to the operation of a standard AK so I do not find the difference in controls compared to an AR a detriment. Yes AR controls are very ergonomic and handily placed I will give them that. The AK is just a learning curve and with practice you can run one just about as efficiently as someone who is proficient with an AR. Plus yugo mags are cheap and they let you know when you're empty you just have to cycle the action after jamming a fresh mag in. Another 1/2-3/4 second before you're sending more rounds down range and you should be utilizing cover so I don't think less than 1 second will determine whether you live or die.

https://youtu.be/PAjidZr5D7o

Thanks MM. Good info. Not sure I am interested in the "Mutant" as of now. An AK that locks open with the right clip will probably fit the bill. When shooting my AR, the bolt lock open when empty has a different feel than a normal cycle without even having to verify visually. On the AK, just don't want the only indication of an empty mag to be a click instead of a boom next time I pull the trigger.

Thanks for the info. Regards and get well! Jerry

Meanwhile, over in the low tech, old school department, this Ruger 44 Carbine has found an accurate load; these carbines are designed around a 240 grain 44 Magnum load - they don't do 180's or 300's well at all. OH

zp4ja wrote:Sweet MM! Nice shooting. Been pondering an AK for awhile now myself. Or possibly a 6.8.

For a guy that knows nothing about them besides the fact they have been around forever and still used around the world, looking for something a little more umphh than the .223 AR I already have.

Hope you are doing well/better.

Regards, Jerry

Jerry if you get a 6.8 make sure you get the 6.8 SPCii chamber.
I have one made by Rock River Arms, but have also tried out the ones made by Palmetto State Armory. In my humble opinion, the 6.8 SPC is the best performing caliber for the original AR-15 platform. I have an AR-10 in .308, but that thing is too heavy for me to lug around all day. The 6.8 rifle is the same size as the AR in 5.56, but with a heavier bullet.
I am shooting Federal Gold Dot 90 grain bullets, as well as Federal's 115 grain MSR, and I am working on a 130 grain Sierra GameKing hand load. Trying to get it to 2500 fps, but can't quite get there yet.

rangerbluedog wrote: In my humble opinion, the 6.8 SPC is the best performing caliber for the original AR-15 platform. I have an AR-10 in .308, but that thing is too heavy for me to lug around all day. The 6.8 rifle is the same size as the AR in 5.56, but with a heavier bullet.
I am shooting Federal Gold Dot 90 grain bullets, as well as Federal's 115 grain MSR, and I am working on a 130 grain Sierra GameKing hand load. Trying to get it to 2500 fps, but can't quite get there yet.

Try a progressive twist barrel. Pressure is reduced due to the slow starting twist rate thereby allowing you increase propellant loads.

Question for all you modern AR and AK platform shooters - anyone tried CFE-223 propellant yet? If so, what were your results? Did it perform for you as advertised (faster, more accurate loads without an increase in pressure while reducing copper fouling). OH

ken98k wrote:

rangerbluedog wrote: In my humble opinion, the 6.8 SPC is the best performing caliber for the original AR-15 platform. I have an AR-10 in .308, but that thing is too heavy for me to lug around all day. The 6.8 rifle is the same size as the AR in 5.56, but with a heavier bullet.
I am shooting Federal Gold Dot 90 grain bullets, as well as Federal's 115 grain MSR, and I am working on a 130 grain Sierra GameKing hand load. Trying to get it to 2500 fps, but can't quite get there yet.

Try a progressive twist barrel. Pressure is reduced due to the slow starting twist rate thereby allowing you increase propellant loads.

Thanks Ken,
I wasn't aware anyone had a progressive twist in the 6.8 AR barrels yet. The fastest I've seen so far are from ARP, and that is because they use 5R rifling and melonite coating. Also, I'm using a 1 in 10 twist - general consensus is that the new 1 in 11.25 is better. Those two combined might get me an extra 80 fps. That and going from a 16" to an 18" length. it's all such fun!

OH, sorry I am of no help. Using store bought stuff now. Looking forward to reloading again someday as I have all my Dad's old equipment. Single stage old school stuff.

Nice 6.8 Blue. Looked at those. May be a good choice for me and my needs. Been pushed down the priority list for now.

So I have a question. I have a SAVAGE 110E 30-06 that I am trying to date and the internet is less than helpful.
My Dad's old gun that I am breaking out since I just pulled a Pronghorn Antelope tag.
The rifle was made in the Westfield, Mass. plant so I know it is 1960' or newer. I think he got it in the 80s' so I believe between 1960' and the 1980s'.
Serial number is E308XXX. Maybe something like the checkering or something may help determine age. On the barrel top just forward of the receiver there are 2 or 3 small, hard to read stamps. One maybe the number 11 in a circle but hard to tell. Any help is appreciated.

So I picked up quite a few hunting gizmos this last week. I posted a few pages/weeks back asking others about long range shots they have taken. Based on the game, terrain, etc, I may be looking at a 200 to 600 yard shot or farther. Have to hit the range and see what my consistent maximum distance will be.

My Dad's 30-06 had a flaky scope and rings so I went after that first. The rifle itself is solid and a accurate gun.
I bought a Vortex Viper 4X12X40 with "Dead Hold" BDC recticle. I have heard many good things from people whom own and love them. Their warranty is second to none. Fumble your rifle on the cement patio and it lands directly on the scope smashing it. Call them up tell them what happened and they repair or replace for free. Basically one time purchase scope for life and beyond to the heirs.
They have a pretty cool "Vortex Long Range Ballistic Calculator" also. Turret dials feel solid and will go back to zero after adjustment from what I have heard. 1/4' MOA with parallax adjustment. BDC recticle with hash marks. Need to test and calculate but with zero at 200 yards and the ammo i am using, hoping the BDC hash marks will take me to 600 yards without turret elevation adjustments or holdover estimation. As I said, I hope. Have to run the loads I plan on using on it first and see how that relates to the BDC. See thru scope covers with yellow lens filter is also a nice touch. Never a good idea to be cheap when buying scope rings/mounts so I put some low profile Leupold rings on with some loc-tight to keep her there.
For whatever it is worth, I will give a review when I have put it thru it's paces.

Anyway, any help on dating the rifle would be appreciated. Not sure what the difference is between a 110 and an 110E but this is the latter if that matters as to SN and dating.
I think that sling is an oldie also.

Regards, Jerry

Hey Jerry!
Something you said in the 1st paragraph of your last post really got my attention. "Single stage, old school stuff."
Over 40 years ago, 3 of us young bucks, bought a Lyman single stage press and had a whole new world opened to us. I moved from that part of Florida and in the Panhandle decided to buy a reloading outfit for myself. I bought a torrent press thinking it would be better, faster, whatever...but in the end I wish I had gone back to the single stage press. There's something about one step at a time, then doing the next step, etc. This wasn't a big enough issue to go buy another press but when I reload, it is still one step at a time with all the brass, then on to the 2nd step, etc. It just feels safer going old school and besides that I'm tryin' to lose the word "hurry" from my limited vocabulary .
Treefarmer

Old Hunter wrote:Meanwhile, over in the low tech, old school department, this Ruger 44 Carbine has found an accurate load; these carbines are designed around a 240 grain 44 Magnum load - they don't do 180's or 300's well at all. OH

Very cool little Ruger! I bet it's a fun little gun too. I briefly had a Marlin 1894 in .44 mag, but it had a lawyer button and none of my others did, and this feller offered me a profit on it, sooooooo.

Now I wish I had it back. I liked it. I still have the box of cartridges I bought with it, only about 5 gone.

.

So I have a question. I have a SAVAGE 110E 30-06 that I am trying to date and the internet is less than helpful.
My Dad's old gun that I am breaking out since I just pulled a Pronghorn Antelope tag.
The rifle was made in the Westfield, Mass. plant so I know it is 1960' or newer. I think he got it in the 80s' so I believe between 1960' and the 1980s'.
Serial number is E308XXX. Maybe something like the checkering or something may help determine age. On the barrel top just forward of the receiver there are 2 or 3 small, hard to read stamps. One maybe the number 11 in a circle but hard to tell. Any help is appreciated.

Anyway, any help on dating the rifle would be appreciated. Not sure what the difference is between a 110 and an 110E but this is the latter if that matters as to SN and dating.
I think that sling is an oldie also.

Regards, Jerry[/quote]


Jerry --sent you a PM,with some info on your mfg. date --- nice rifle made mid 80's -- matching serial number should be on the bolt too ??? year date on barrel should have a ""letter"" ---J was 1958, K was 1959,L was 1960, ect. ___ good luck,Monk

Thanks Monk. Read PM and replied. I really appreciate the help.

Will try to look at barrel stamp again. Hard to see but at least I have a rough ballpark and that is fine by me. I think he bought new based on the time frame you provided.

Regards, Jerry

Colonel Wade, I'm really enjoying the Ruger Carbine - it's part of the group of old rifles I inherited last year - luckily a buddy told me to stick with 240 grain bullets when I worked up the load - it shoots them good! OH

Jerry, that Savage 110 is a nice old rifle - they based the barrel nut on the M60 machine gun design and created an action that can be quickly barreled and always have perfect headspace with minimal rejection rates - quite smart.

Been reloading since 1978 using equipment borrowed from my first boss; bought this RCBS Rockchuck press in 1979 and have been using it ever since. I have a RCBS progressive set up for 357 MAG and a Redding turret set up for 45 Colt - but do 98% of my loading on the single stage. Here I'm putting together some 308 WIN loads for hunting season several years back.

Your work space is so neat and tidy. It scares me.