All About Pocket Knives

orvet wrote:

Gunsil wrote: Some guys may like 'em thataway but I am not one of them.

I believe what you said is absolutely true, some people like shiny knives and some people don't.
I appreciate and respect both views as valid opinions when collecting old knives. There are knives I won't let anywhere near a buffer or any other powered equipment! But there are other knives which are more valuable if they are shined up, especially after being repaired.

However, I was actually answering the OP’s question on how to make dull bone shiny.
I was expressly trying not to make a judgment as to which procedure is best.
I believe both schools of thought have validity.

Very well stated Dale.
I take a lot of flack for cleaning up the knives that I sell. I’m not pitching my knives as collector knives, I’m selling them as reconditioned EDC knives. To each their own.
If you’re cleaning up a knife to keep in your collection as a near mint specimen then stay away from polishing the bone. If you’re cleaning up the knife to use as your own, polish it until you’re happy with it.
The bottom line is the knife is yours to do with as you feel. The guys here can give you some advice on how to accomplish what you want. But what you decide to do is entirely up to you.
There are those who will tell you you’ve ruined the knife by polishing it. But you should feel free to do what you want to the knives that you purchase. As long as you like it, that’s all that matters.
Have fun!

I agree, your knife, do as you wish.
I just always have gone by "using the smallest/ lightest hammer first" in most things in life. Just personally think you don't pull out the 20# sledgehammer as a first choice in dealing with things. The 20# pound sledge may get you there faster but may be overkill/ damaging caused by more action used then required. To each his own.
Personally, besides mineral oil use, never personally have had to use a power tool on my knives, collection or EDCs Likely never will on my collection knives. I maintain those and keep as is. Elbow grease and/ or the right compound/ product or oil goes a long way. I sharpen with a stone (on EDC only knives of course, not any collection knives) so I am old school when it comes to knife maintenance. BUT, I am not a knife mechanic either where power tools have their place when discretion dictates. As I said, your knife to each his own. Just the way I do it.
Along the same vein of the power tool conversation...
My stepson had high school shop and of course paid no attention to the safety lectures. He was using a table saw incorrectly and took a 90mph wooden plank fastball to the nether regions. ER trip, true story.

Jerry

Hand polishing has its place as does polishing with buffer wheels and compounds. It’s not about using a 20 lb. sledgehammer it’s about using the best methods and tools to accomplish what you want to get done. The original OP was asking about ways to bring some shine back to his bone handles. Oiling might help, ren wax or others might help, having a knowledgeable knife mechanic polish the bone handles with compound and power tools will definitely help. To each their own.
As far as using power tools safely, I think we can all agree on that. Anyone who’s used power tools for any length of time will have stories about injuries. But that doesn’t mean we should stop using them. Power tools are quite often the best approach to accomplishing what we want.
I’ll leave it up to the rest of you to argue about whether polishing bone handles is an abomination, or whether it’s repulsive or whether it offends you personally, or whether it depreciates the value of any given knife. To me all of those arguments are nothing more than one individual pushing his or her personal preferences on another uninformed individual.
Knives are meant to be used and enjoyed.

Statement of the year Jeff!
Totally applies to life in general.

Guess I'll throw my twopence here FWIW.
I have never had any trouble polishing bone(or just about any other substance that has been used to handle knives)using Mother's Mag Wheel Polish and some serious rubbing with a soft cloth.I've even used it in conjunction with a denture brush(stiffer bristles than a regular toothbrush)to polish stag or deeply jigged bone.
In all truth I've never bone get dull unless possibly it has been subjected to some type of chemical or prolonged exposure to sunlight.In the latter case it would have changed the color of the bone(assuming it was colored)as well.
As to the use of a buffing wheel;I use them on occasion but only to speed up the smoothing of Lexan(if I am making something from that)or on steel blades.This is usually after I have done some re-profiling or other modification to them.I have a VERY healthy respect for buffing wheels and use gloves to hold any items(steel DOES get hot when buffed as do other metals and most plastics);eye protection and usually a fairly heavy canvas apron.Most knifemakers I have seen use a heavy leather apron and steel toed boots as well.I like to wear them as I have had a blade catch in a rag wheel and stick in the floor way too close to my feet.I also concentrate solely on what I am doing;I do not have a radio going and I lock the shop door so I don't get interrupted. You DO NOT NEED DISTRACTION OF ANY KIND WHILE BUFFING!
Anyway the rant is over;buy some Mother's(at your local auto supply store) and get your old holey event T-shirts and polish away!

cudgee wrote:

Lansky1 wrote:i use a buffing wheel - makes bone gleam. Seems to me you need a high speed buffing application to really get that sheen ... here's a way to get it on the cheap - if you have a dremel tool (if not, they're cheap and everyone should have one anyways ... incredibly useful tool), they make little buffing wheels for it & you can buy little containers of dremel buffing compound ... that's what I would do if you don't have access to a stationary buffer.

I have never heard of Dremel Tool. Just googled it, but there are several, is there one you would recommend?

I would just make sure to get a Dremel with variable speed - that way you can slow it down if you feel like you might have an issue with heat build up so you don't burn the bone (I've never had that problem, and I've buffed a whole lot of bone handles with a stationary buffer). I did have one scary incident while buffing a knife with a small pen blade recently ... that rag "wheel" ripped the knife out of my hand and it took me 15 minutes to find it - it was resting on my window sill above my work bench (amazing that it didn't break the window - I think it hit the upper window sill frame). Going forward, I'm only going to buff blades when absolutely necessary and stay away from buffing the small blades entirely ... buffing bolsters and sides is really what brings a knife back anyways (bone and acrylic corelon seem to respond equally well).