Help!! Who made and today's value.

[monterray]

I purchased this switchblade new in 1992 and was told it was a Navy Seal knife. Been in drawer all this time. Like new. Any help with information on it will be greatly appreciated. It looks like a early Dalton.

[espn77]

Your knife looks very similar to a knife I have. Here is a link to the discussion on mine.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=50584&p=589749&hili ... fe#p589749

[monterray]

Thanks for the info.

[sam eib]

Could be Paragon but just a guess. I had one years ago and seemed to me it was a Paragon.

[americanedgetech]

I was thinking it was an older Boker, (based on the button design, and location) and tried to look it up but came up empty handed.

Perhaps it is a prototype?

[Bill DeShivs]

It's possibly a Charles Ochs (Ox Forge) "black knife."
It's not a Boker.

[Brian_R170]

I agree with Bill, it could be a genuine Miller/Ochs "Black Knife" aka "Seal Knife" etc.

I'm pretty sure it's not a Paragon or a Boker as their shape was slightly different.

Rob Dalton made a clone of it but there is a dead giveaway to Rob's knives which is a "bump" in the recess above the button. I don't see it on your knife, but the pictures aren't too clear. If you post a closeup of the button, it would be easy to tell if it's a Dalton.

The Miller/Ochs knives had a small hex screw where a blade stop pin would normally be on modern button-lock automatics. This screw served to adjust the vertical blade play. The screw is hard to see if you don't know where to look, but you can see it with the blade closed.

[americanedgetech]

Isn't this it?

viewtopic.php?t=50584

[Brian_R170]

Isn't this it?

viewtopic.php?t=50584

No, that one is a Dalton Baby Seal. It's much smaller than the knife in this thread.

[Brian_R170]

I just was able to open the full-sized photos (didn't work for me before) and I can see that the knife is missing the ridge in the button recess, so it's not a Dalton. I think there's a good chance it's a Miller/Ochs Black Knife made between 1990 and 1994.

Minimum value around $200. If you can get an expert to authenticate it, probably $300 or more. Back in 2010 I read that Charles Ochs (Ox Forge) would do a tune-up for a nominal fee, but if you sent him a fake, he'd send it back in broken pieces. That'd be one way to authenticate it.