Help Identifying a Case Knife

[Gah444]

I would really appreciate any info on this CaseTested XX Knife. I have searched the internet and can't find any info on it.
It does not have a model number and the shield is blank.

Thanks.

[Steve Warden]

Sorry, I can't help.
But welcome!
Someone smarter than I am will be along soon, I'm sure.

[jerryd6818]

Welcome to AAPK. Glad to have you aboard.

Well, I'm no Case genius but that looks like a Folding Hunter pattern to me. Still available. Your knife made 1920-1940.

Case Folding Knife Tang Stamps 1905-1940-crop.jpg (4.07 KiB) Viewed 2127 times

[btrwtr]

Welcome to AAPK. Sorry to say this is not an old knife but a modern counterfeit made to appear as an old knife.

[Mumbleypeg]

Totally agree. It’s a fake, and a poor one at that. Probably make a good user though.

Ken

[Gunsil]

X3 on fake, those stamps stand out from across a table. Bone not right either. Most tested era knives will not have model numbers but those marks look cold stamped.

[jerryd6818]

Hey! At least I got the pattern correct (didn't I???). Come on fellas, throw me a bone.

[Mumbleypeg]

Hey! At least I got the pattern correct (didn't I???). Come on fellas, throw me a bone.

Well Jerry, it is a folding hunter, I’ll give you that. Just not a Case folding hunter.

To the OP, my advice is to never ever buy a Case from pre-1980 unless you’ve studied up and know for sure what you’re buying is legitimate, or you know the seller to be honest and knows what he is selling. Or it costs less than $20! In general the older it is, the more it is worth, and therefore the higher the possibility that it’s been faked. Especially if it’s in mint or near-mint condition.

Counterfeits are the bane of our hobby and thoroughly despised because they turn off new collectors from our hobby. Don’t feel bad, most of us have been burned at one time (at least). Just hang around here on AAPK, study knives to learn what legitimate ones look like and how to tell them from the fakes. There is a good forum here on counterfeit knives where much can be learned. viewforum.php?f=17 The devil is in the details like pin placement (compare the pins on your knife with the picture Jerry posted above), jigging patterns, placement and size of the blade pulls (nail nicks), blade shapes, shields, and so on. These and other details are unique to different makers, and sometimes to different time periods within a maker’s production. Probably the last thing to look at is the tang stamp - you should be able to tell if it’s a legitimate knife before you get to the stamp. To some this is overwhelming and more than they want to learn, so they shy away from older knives or some more frequently counterfeited brands. To others it’s what makes the hobby interesting for them. Rule of thumb - if a knife (or most any other item) is expensive, some crook will try to counterfeit it.

Welcome to AAPK.

Ken

[Modern Slip Joints]

It's a good thing I like excellent condition knives that do not cost a fortune. I only have to be able to identify them as made by the original factory or a replica from a U.S. manufacturer that I respect. To keep sellers from making a fool of me my only TESTED Case is going to remain my only old Case. They all ready get their greedy mitts too deep in my wallet too often.

[Gah444]

Well, just my luck, first Case knife I have ever bought and it is a fake. Just have to live and learn.
Thanks to all of you for replying and stay safe.

George

[OLDE CUTLER]

Well, just my luck, first Case knife I have ever bought and it is a fake. Just have to live and learn.
Thanks to all of you for replying and stay safe.

George

Where did you get it?

[1967redrider]

Sorry to be reading this but to AAPK, George. Lots of great info here, on true Case folding Hunters and what to avoid with counterfeits.

John

[Gah444]

Bought it at Smiley's Flea Market here in Macon Georgia.

George