I bought three Kershaws from a guy who'd split from eBay to start his own website specializing in used knives. Well, a few minutes ago, I got an email that the Leek was out of stock, and I decided to start looking at American Schrades. I almost bought an 897UH, but found the Copenhagen version of the 93OT, which has the wickedly aggressive serrations that are featured on some of Schrade's newer patterns from the '90s. This one's used, so I can EDC it, occasionally. I'd been looking at getting these, but absurd prices for my budget put me off.
Were these carbon steel? Becuase it sure looks like it.
$28, 50% off discount, meaning $14.
Copenhagen Score.
Re: Copenhagen Score.
The 93OT and the 98OT were only made with Schrade + steel. Schrade+ steel is Schrade's proprietary version of 440C stainless steel.
Dale
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- bladecollectorr
- Posts: 620
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2019 1:11 am
- Location: Canada
Re: Copenhagen Score.
...but, the 1995 edition COPE33 was 1095 carbon.
COPE33 - Black Sawcut Delrin handle, brass bolsters, special scalloped high carbon sheepfoot blade with can opening tip, "Copenhagen Snuff" etched high carbon clip blade, antiqued brass copenhagen shield, Schrade/Cope USA tangstamp COPE33, Ship Start Jan. 1995 - 100,000 pcs.
viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23377&p=201090&hilit=ust#p201090
I don't always respond to great posts but I always appreciate seeing them. Thanks for posting!
- tongueriver
- Posts: 6834
- Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:01 pm
Re: Copenhagen Score.
I have no reason to disbelieve you but I don't know how to tell on these latter-day Schrades. In the advertising, 'high carbon' meant nothing more than a steel knife blade, and rightly so, as stainless steel blades are indeed high carbon. We know that they switched the formerly non-stainless steel supply without telling anyone and without adding a 'plus' sign to the tang stamp in many cases. I have one of these Cope jacks myself, mint and I did have it for sale with no takers. I always wonder about the steel, myself. Dale has used a Birchwood Casey pen of some sort to tell the difference but I have not tried that. Anyway, these little jacks are really nice knives.bladecollectorr wrote: ↑Fri Dec 27, 2019 12:48 am...but, the 1995 edition COPE33 was 1095 carbon.
COPE33 - Black Sawcut Delrin handle, brass bolsters, special scalloped high carbon sheepfoot blade with can opening tip, "Copenhagen Snuff" etched high carbon clip blade, antiqued brass copenhagen shield, Schrade/Cope USA tangstamp COPE33, Ship Start Jan. 1995 - 100,000 pcs.
viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23377&p=201090&hilit=ust#p201090
- bladecollectorr
- Posts: 620
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2019 1:11 am
- Location: Canada
Re: Copenhagen Score.
I agree that Schrade took some liberties when describing blade steel. The stainless steel 'high carbon" Big Timer comes to mind.tongueriver wrote: ↑Fri Dec 27, 2019 1:12 amI have no reason to disbelieve you but I don't know how to tell on these latter-day Schrades. In the advertising, 'high carbon' meant nothing more than a steel knife blade, and rightly so, as stainless steel blades are indeed high carbon. We know that they switched the formerly non-stainless steel supply without telling anyone and without adding a 'plus' sign to the tang stamp in many cases. I have one of these Cope jacks myself, mint and I did have it for sale with no takers. I always wonder about the steel, myself. Dale has used a Birchwood Casey pen of some sort to tell the difference but I have not tried that. Anyway, these little jacks are really nice knives.bladecollectorr wrote: ↑Fri Dec 27, 2019 12:48 am...but, the 1995 edition COPE33 was 1095 carbon.
COPE33 - Black Sawcut Delrin handle, brass bolsters, special scalloped high carbon sheepfoot blade with can opening tip, "Copenhagen Snuff" etched high carbon clip blade, antiqued brass copenhagen shield, Schrade/Cope USA tangstamp COPE33, Ship Start Jan. 1995 - 100,000 pcs.
viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23377&p=201090&hilit=ust#p201090
I personally thought I saw patina/staining on the knife in question inconsistent with a Schrade+ knife which is why I looked it up.
Here's a couple other examples I found online. Trying to force a patina with mustard etc would be one way to arrive at a more definitive answer. I've had good results forcing patina using mustard before.
I don't always respond to great posts but I always appreciate seeing them. Thanks for posting!