Is there any way to fix a knife with a lazy blade?

[Fishnbum]

Wondering if there a way, short of taking the knife apart, to fix a pocket knife with a lazy blade? Thanks

[Doc B]

This is not an all inclusive answer...and I'm no master cutler...but I've been playing around, for the last year, pulling old knives apart, to see if I can improve on their deficiencies. I've picked everything up, from this forum and the helpful people, here on the site. Under the knife repair and restoration...you will find tutorials about assembly and disassembly of knives. To address some of my observations about blade play: Side-to-side wobble often can be improved upon by additional "peening" of the bolster pins, which will tighten the blade up. If you have up/down play, or poor snap...it could be from tang wear, of the blade or springs. That can be very difficult to repair, without the ability to accurately accomplish fine TIG welding. Not too many people, get in to that type of repair.
If it's the opening / closing "snap" you are referring to...my first attempts would be to clean and wash the joints; then, liberally oil and work the joints. Even minor corrosion, in the joints can prevent the blades from functioning properly. Sometimes 10-15 minutes of oil and working the blades will free them up and increase the "snap".

[OLDE CUTLER]

Yes, the procedure outlined by Doc B above is the best first step. While doing this see if the spring rises on the back of the knife while opening the blade. If the spring does not rise or rises only slightly when opening and closing the blade, then the joint is badly worn out and nothing can be done to improve it without replacing or welding parts.

[Fishnbum]

This is a mint condition knife from the 1970’s. It has no “snap” on one of the blades when opening and closing

[Doc B]

Even though I said "corrosion" in the joints...even if it is mint...could be gummed up from prior oils. Try WD40 for 5 minutes of opening / closing...then a more substantial oil, like mineral oil or 3-in-one oil for another 5-10 minutes.

[orvet]

Even though I said "corrosion" in the joints...even if it is mint...could be gummed up from prior oils. Try WD40 for 5 minutes of opening / closing...then a more substantial oil, like mineral oil or 3-in-one oil for another 5-10 minutes.

If it is a 30 or 40 year old mint knife it probably is dried out lubricant in the joints. The oil in the old knives turns to varnish, like gasoline in the carburetor when it sets too long. Lighter fluid is a good solvent to cut the dried out oil. It works better IMHO then WD - 40. As he said work it for 5 minutes or more using the lighter fluid and once it starts to dissolve the varnish caused by the dried out oil, then use WD-40 as a cleaner to flush the old varnish residue and lighter fluid out of the joint.

I am convinced that the absolute best oil that I have found for knives is Quick Release Oil, it is put out by Latama, the Italian switchblade company. It is fantastic on switchblades, IMHO even better for slip joints!

I do not consider WD-40 to be a good lubricant primarily because it is designed as a water displacement formula, not as a lubricant, though it does have a light lubricating property.

I don't sell Quick Release Oil, nor have stock in the company, but it's about the only oil I use on my knives and on knives that I repair. The other oil that I use is Eezox and I use that for its rust prevention properties.

[Fishnbum]

Good info thanks

[Mumbleypeg]

Another cause of weak snap I have encountered is "crud" in the joints. On new knives I've found very fine grey-black "dust" in the joints which can be flushed using the methods already mentioned. Older knives also collect dirt in their joints, which are can be held there by the oil. That too can be flushed out by using a solvent.

Ken

[glennbad]

As was mentioned before, see if the spring rises and falls as the blade is opened and closed. If it does, than it probably can be fixed somehow. If not, then there may be something else going on.

[orvet]

Succinctly put Glenn!

[just bob]

" I am convinced that the absolute best oil that I have found for knives is Quick Release Oil, it is put out by Latama, the Italian switchblade company. It is fantastic on switchblades, IMHO even better for slip joints! "


Dale I have a friend that has been doing knife repair for years. He told me the best product ever made for knife lubrication was Kroil Oil. All of the old timers used it and nothing better has ever been made or ever will. It is cheaper than the modern lubricants. I bought some and have found that when you have a knife that is almost rusted shut soaking it in Kroil Oil does wonders. I was using mineral oil for that purpose and found that the bone soaks it in and it takes forever to completely dry out. The Kroil Oil is light enough that it seems to evaporate much faster. So far as the lubrication of a knife you carry the modern products may be much better because they leave a coating on the joints. I'm not sure Kroil Oil does that, but a drop works wonders.

[Reverand]

I have not tried Kroil oil, and it may work great. But t I just got a bottle of the Latamas Quick Release oil, and I was blown away by the difference it made in most of my knives. It really is almost like magic! Knives with good snap open so much more smoothly with it. Several knives with a weak snap now walk & talk great.
Of course no oil will ever fix a worn tang or a weak spring, but I had some knives that I believed had these problems, which I had previously oiled to no avail, but now work well with the Quick Release.

[Doc B]

OK, Reverend...you and Dale sold me....got it ordered...despite having a hundred other oils