Back spring materials,

This forum is for those who like to repair and restore knives, and for those who would like to learn.
Post Reply
Ozwelder
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:41 pm

Back spring materials,

Post by Ozwelder »

Hi Guys,
I joined a while back but its taken a while to get up to speed. So much to learn.

I have an old George Wostenholm IXL Sheffield gunstock single blade knife. It is pretty old and only 2/3rds of its original blade is left.

Rather than butcher this vintage knife trying to replace the blade, it is my intention to copy it. I have obtained some 1/8th 1084 steel.

It is normal practice to make the backspring from the same metal(1084) as the blade? As for the pivot blade hole does one drill the hole size for size or is there a need to ream the hole?

The hole is fairly small 2.7mms and I wonder are reamers made that small.?

Thanks, Ozwelder
User avatar
btrwtr
Gold Tier
Gold Tier
Posts: 5061
Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 11:53 am

Re: Back spring materials,

Post by btrwtr »

I’ve never had to ream a drilled pivot hole although I suppose you could. I am not sure what the heat treats are for 1084 blades and springs but I am sure there is a difference between them and that it can be found on line. Maybe you know the heat treat recipes. The 1084 should be fine for both blades and springs.
If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants.

Wayne

Please visit My AAPK store https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/catalog/btrwtr
User avatar
glennbad
Gold Tier
Gold Tier
Posts: 7366
Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 11:13 am
Location: NH

Re: Back spring materials,

Post by glennbad »

If I were making a replacement blade/spring, I would copy the hole sizes exactly the same as the existing parts.

(If that is your question)
Tony_Wood
Posts: 1368
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2018 5:06 pm

Re: Back spring materials,

Post by Tony_Wood »

I make backspring and blades from 1084.
It is common to make them both from the same material.
The temper in the backspring is different than the blade. After heat treating the blade/backspring for hardness ? And cycling through the tempering oven, I use a torch for drawing the spring to a blue/purple...all except the end that contacts the blade pivot.
Dip the pivot end in water to keep cool while drawing back hardness of the spring. Without this step, the spring is too hard/brittle and will snap.

As for the pivot hole, you will be repinning, so you can use whatever size you would like. Redrill and tapbthe holes in the bolster/liner/blade to match.
Post pics when working on it! We like in process pics.
https://m.facebook.com/sheepsfootknives/?ref=bookmarks

Instagram: #sheepsfootknivesbytwood
Ozwelder
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:41 pm

Re: Back spring materials,

Post by Ozwelder »

Hi guys,
No, I am not making a replacement blade for my IXL gunstock knife.

I am making a completely new copy of it from scratch.

I have only made fixed blades up to this point, so appreciate that there are still some aspects of knife making I am still not familiar with.

The new knife will be laid out as close as possible to the pin centers of the existing one.

Adjustments may be made for pin diameters as the range of them is not as big as in America.

I am using pin stock from the K&S rack at the hobby shop and adjusting drill sizes as needed. Liner shim metal about .023" is also K&S.
I'll seek another metal grade for the blade then.
Ozwelder
Ozwelder
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:41 pm

Re: Back spring materials,

Post by Ozwelder »

Hi guys,
No, I am not making a replacement blade for my IXL gunstock knife.

I am making a completely new knife copy of it from scratch.

I have only made fixed blades up to this point, so appreciate that there are still some aspects of knife making I am still not familiar with.

The new knife will be laid out as close as possible to the pin centers of the existing one.

Adjustments may be made for pin diameters as the range of them is not as big as in America.

I am using pin stock from the K&S rack at the hobby shop and adjusting drill sizes as needed. Liner shim metal about .023" is also K&S.
I'll seek another metal grade for the blade then.
Ozwelder
User avatar
glennbad
Gold Tier
Gold Tier
Posts: 7366
Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 11:13 am
Location: NH

Re: Back spring materials,

Post by glennbad »

You can always thin down pin stock, so I always like to go bigger and then if I need to remove some, I can. The only problem I've eve had with pin stock that is too big are proud springs and heavier snap. I guess I'd rather have that than the opposite.

Be sure to share pics of your work, we love pics of knives! ::nod::
Post Reply

Return to “Knife Repair and Restoration”