Stabilizing a crack in ivory

[QTCut5]

I just got this ivory handled Gerber Silver Knight and I don't know how long it's had the pin/scale crack, if it's old or recent. Could anyone give me some advice on what I could do to stabilize it? I was thinking maybe a tiny drop of Superglue, but I sure don't want to do anything that might somehow make it worse (unforeseen/unintended/undesired consequences due to uninformed actions). The knife is a "safe queen," so, it's never going to be carried or used...but, I would like to be able to handle it from time to time without worrying about the corner of the scale breaking off. Appreciate any expert opinions.

~Q~

[americanedgetech]

If no one has a method for you, here is the fella you need to talk to. Pablo Noriega. He lives/works in Texas, and is a master restorer of ivory.
He restored, and fabricated some pieces for a small "Virgin Mary" sort of picture frame with working doors. I forget what that piece is really called but it was a wedding gift to my mother from her aunt in the late 50's.
When my mother passed (1992) my sister found Pablo, and had it restored. I (to this day) can not tell what he made, what he re-assembled, and what was untouched.
He will advise you.

pnoriega2@gmail dot com

Just found an article on him... http://www.valleymorningstar.com/news/l ... f6878.html

[orvet]

To repair cracks in bone or ivory I use Zap-A-Gap CA glue. It is formulated to fill in gaps.
The first step I would do is to clean the ivory with 91% to 99% denatured isopropyl alcohol. 99% is available in Kroger’s pharmacy for under $2 per pint. Using a syringe and a needle I squirt the alcohol in the crack and underneath the handle if possible. At the very least pour some of the alcohol in the crack and blow it out with compressed air. This will help dry it and blow out contaminants.

The second step is to apply a drop of the thin Zap-A-Gap, in the pink bottle. This will run down the crack and hopefully underneath the handle. Give it several minutes to dry and repeat. It is important to note here that you are not trying to fill the gap at this point, you are just trying to seal it at the narrowest point, generally the bottom of the crack and beneath the handles. Securing it to the handles helps prevent further cracking.

After the pink Zap-A-Gap has dried thoroughly I then apply one drop of the green Zap-A-Gap, the regular setting Zap. Check the bottle for drying time on this but make sure it has had time to dry before adding more Zap-A-Gap to the crack. One trick to help get the glue in the crack and not on the handle is to try and get a drop of the glue on a toothpick and place it in the crack.
You repeat this process until the crack is filled. It is also helpful if you wipe off any glue you get on the surface of the handle because you’re going to have to sand it down if you have a lot of glue on it. However, instead of using sandpaper I highly recommend 3M Polishing Paper. The scratch pattern it uses as much wider and if you use it all the way down to the 8000 grit polishing is almost unnecessary.

3M Polishing Paper is available through Jantz Supply and other suppliers.

I hope this is helpful. Please ask me if you have questions regarding the process.

[QTCut5]

Wow...that's a lot more involved than I thought. I shouldn't be too surprised, though; that's what I get for asking the pros.
I appreciate the advice, Dale, but I'm afraid my capabilities may not be up to the task. So, for now I think I'll just leave well enough alone and only handle this knife very infrequently and with extra care when I do.

Cheers & Aloha,
~Q~

[kootenay joe]

I think you don't need to do anything. Pin cracks in ivory handled knives are common. A knife maker who does make ivory handled knives told me it is the final tap to seat a handle pin that yields a crack. As long as you don't further tap on the pin, the crack will not change.
I have about 20 ivory carvings my grandfather collected in London about 100 years ago. They were already antiques when he bought them and a few had an existing crack in the ivory. During my 70 years these cracks have not changed.
kj

[TheSilversmith]

As a silver restorer and conservator, I am occasionally called upon to fill cracks in ivory insulators and handles. I first clean the crack with rubbing alcohol to remove any dirt. I sometimes use a very fine flat hook to help loosen the material. After blowing out the dirt, I put a thin layer medium Zap-A-Gap in the crack and immediately add powered imitation ivory which will settle in the adhesive. I then pack the remaining crack with this powder and coat it with the Zap-A-Gap, and overfill with additional powder, patting it down. After the adhesive dries, I use #2 needle files to level the surface a few thousands from the top of the crack. This allows me to use wet 600-, 1200-, 2000-, then 3000-grit wet/dry abrasive paper. I polish the area with ZAM polishing compound:
https://www.riogrande.com/product/zam-c ... und/331123

[orvet]

to AAPK. TheSilversmith!
Your process is very similar to the process I posted.
What was never posted was a private conversation I had with QTCut5. I had him send me the knife and I stabilized the crack using my method as I described it.

I didn't fill the crack, it wasn't that wide and often the zap glue will take on the color of the ivory and a fill isn't really necessary if the gap is not too wide.
I don't remember if the crack was highly visible or not when I was done.

Q - if you read this, perhaps you could post a picture of the knife as it is now. It's been a year or two since I repaired it, and I would love to see how well the repair has held up and what the knife looks like today. I would like to make sure the method I'm using holds up with time. Thank you my friend.

[QTCut5]

Sure thing, Dale...your wish is my command. When I read the new post on this two-year-old thread, I realized I had been remiss in posting a photo of the stabilized crack for all to see. For that negligence, I sincerely apologize.

So, to update the record...Here is the same knife two years after the fix by Dale. Although the crack is still visible, it's perfectly smooth and when I run my fingernail over it it's impossible to detect. Dale did an outstanding job. Thanks again, my friend.

[orvet]

Thanks Q!
I was more curious than anything else about how the repair had held up. I don't often have a chance to follow up on work that goes to a tropical climate or an Arctic climate and I have sent knives to both places. Sometimes products and methods that work well in a temperate climate do not work well in extremes of hot or cold, or in arid climates either.
I was curious as to how the zap glue held up in that crack. I suspect that Gerber stabilize that piece of ivory before they used it and yet it still developed a crack. I'm glad to see it hasn't grown and that the zap has stayed in place as it is supposed to.

Thank you my friend for the pictures!