Centering

[1967redrider]

Blade centering on a single bladed tactical knife is more noticeable than a 3 blade Stockman. At some of the designer prices they're asking for tactical knives, I would be disappointed if everything wasn't 100% on a $150+ knife that only has 1 blade. Just my preference.

[Lansky1]

John I didn’t have anyone in particular in mind. I just had someone on Ebay that asked me that question and while I was taking pictures and answering the question someone else bought it. Makes me feel badly. That’s why I am asking. Just want to see how important this is and try to remember to include that in the future. It wasn’t the first time I have been asked this and honestly never noticed it on a knife or even looked for it. Like I said, if it’s not contacting the liner, I don’t see the importance.
Glad you have figured a way to straighten this on a knife. I considered trying that but don’t want to take a chance on doing damage. I’ve seen too many damaged knives and don’t want them to be mine.

SSK - no worries, I was just trying to be self deprecating about my obsession with centered blades ... crinking I found isn't really tough at all - just have to take my time - and gradually build up enough force to move the blade - might take me 15-20 little hammer strikes (checking after each one) as I gradually increase the force to where it moves - I've been lucky to have never broken one yet (although I did overdue it on a 1979 mini-T I just couldn't get to move & spread the bolster, so I had to re-pein it - I crinked a 70's copperhead with no trouble, so each knife is different).

If anybody's interested, I just lay a 3/8" thick scrap of soft wood as opposed to hard wood for better shock absorption - soft wood actually slightly dents (which I think is a good thing) on a bench - lay the knife blade against the scrap wood, and make sure to make flush hammer blows (I cover the face with duct tape). Key is to actually push the body of the knife down snug against the bench so there's no wobble during the strike. Here's before and after on an old 107w I just gave a good crinking to ---->

[rea1eye]

John I didn’t have anyone in particular in mind. I just had someone on Ebay that asked me that question and while I was taking pictures and answering the question someone else bought it. Makes me feel badly. That’s why I am asking. Just want to see how important this is and try to remember to include that in the future. It wasn’t the first time I have been asked this and honestly never noticed it on a knife or even looked for it. Like I said, if it’s not contacting the liner, I don’t see the importance.
Glad you have figured a way to straighten this on a knife. I considered trying that but don’t want to take a chance on doing damage. I’ve seen too many damaged knives and don’t want them to be mine.

SSK - no worries, I was just trying to be self deprecating about my obsession with centered blades ... crinking I found isn't really tough at all - just have to take my time - and gradually build up enough force to move the blade - might take me 15-20 little hammer strikes (checking after each one) as I gradually increase the force to where it moves - I've been lucky to have never broken one yet (although I did overdue it on a 1979 mini-T I just couldn't get to move & spread the bolster, so I had to re-pein it - I crinked a 70's copperhead with no trouble, so each knife is different).

If anybody's interested, I just lay a 3/8" thick scrap of soft wood as opposed to hard wood for better shock absorption - soft wood actually slightly dents (which I think is a good thing) on a bench - lay the knife blade against the scrap wood, and make sure to make flush hammer blows (I cover the face with duct tape). Key is to actually push the body of the knife down snug against the bench so there's no wobble during the strike. Here's before and after on an old 107w I just gave a good crinking to ---->

IMG-1968.jpg
IMG-1973.jpg
IMG-1976.jpg

So what you are doing then is slightly bending the blade near the tang? And this does not
cause a blade wobble?

Interesting.


Bob

[Reverand]

Hmmm...I think it more likely that you are bending the pivot pin, rather than bending the blade. I like it! I have broken a couple of blades trying to crink them, but I use my stiddy and have tried to bend the blade near the tang. This method looks like it may be less stressful on the blades. I will give it a try!

[Lansky1]

actually, I find most of the time on the Case's I've crinked, the blade takes a slight bend in the half closest to the tip which makes them off center, so I'm sure to strike the blade around the mid point, maybe a tad closer to the tip ... not near the tang (which would be more inclined to loosen or bend the pin). I'm very aware of blade wobble - that's even more of a pet peeve to me than off center blades. As I said, I've done this on alot of Case knives & I've only loosened a pin once - the way I've come up with to do this doesn't loosen the pivot pin at all.

[1967redrider]

Would there be any way to make this blade center better by removing the blade screw? It almost looks like the liner lock is causing the issue. Just a cheap knife so it doesn't bother me (that much ).

The second picture of the lock is in resting position and the third is me pushing left on the blade tip.

[Sharpnshinyknives]

Can you tighten the screw? It looks like the screw is loose and there is a lot of space between the blade at the pivot point.
I have a cheap knife that is put together w/ screws and it comes loose all the time. It was a freebie that SMKW threw in. Not worth a buck.
If that doesn’t work, try taking it apart and bending that liner lock a bit in the other direction.

[1967redrider]

You were % right, the screw was loose. Thanks, I like easy.