Thanks Dennis. Not typo, braino! The hone is dated 1823 too.deo-pa wrote:Whoops, typo Edgewise: 1840The knife is dated 1940...
Dennis
My legacy knife.
Re: My legacy knife.
Re: My legacy knife.
I never thought of it that way . It's just that we locals who are stuck here have a different perspective from visitors. The grass is greener kind of thing.TwoFlowersLuggage wrote:I don't have any pockets in my swim trunks, and saltwater is not good for pocket knives. Anyway, I don't need any pockets when I'm sitting at the pool bar drinking funny colored fruity drinks. The bartender always lets me charge them to my room...Edgewise wrote:And I bet you left all of them without having found a single knife worth buying.TwoFlowersLuggage wrote:I love the Caribbean! I've been to Jamaica, Barbados, Puerto Rico & Grand Cayman - and NONE of them by cruise ship! I could happily live on a small tropical island.
Not that you come down here to buy knives anyway.
Re: My legacy knife.
I was afraid of something like this appearing.Dinadan wrote:When I was younger I used to have only one EDC knife. Some I carried for several years and then was seduced by a new shape, some I lost. I guess it would be kind of cool to leave a legacy knife for posterity. But I am not willing to limit myself to just one or even three EDC knives. If I were, it would not be one of those Taylor Schrade knives. I have one, and while it seemed pretty good at first, it is really just a distorted echo of the quality of the original Schrades. I would go with either Case or GEC or else a real Schrade Walden. And though it is kind of sad to say, my number one choice would be a Delrin handle Schrade Walden. Sad in the sense that I have not come across any current production knives that I think are as good for every day use.
Just the thing to send me back into my cheapo analysis paralysis.
But I know that everyone else is with you on that, and it was worth it just to see your perfect description : " ...just a distorted echo of the quality of the original..." (Dinadan) This works for more than knives and I shall be quoting you in future if you don't mind.
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Re: My legacy knife.
Love the "distorted echo of the quality of the original Schrades" line. Hope you don't mind if i steal it.Dinadan wrote: it would not be one of those Taylor Schrade knives. I have one, and while it seemed pretty good at first, it is really just a distorted echo of the quality of the original Schrades.
As i read that, i imagined a chinese quality control manager for taylor knives reading your post and then angrily karate chopping his desk and other items in his poorly furnished office.
Re: My legacy knife.
Edgewise - I have plenty of cheapo knives, Chinese and others, and sometimes one is in my pocket. I just would not choose one of those for my legacy knife. You can get a very nice brand new Case for about $60, so I am not talking about breaking into your 401K.
I had just knocked back a couple Heinekens when I made my post and I will attribute any overly poetic flights of phraseology to the influence of the beer.Mel
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Re: My legacy knife.
A very interesting thread. At first I thought I wouldn't have an eligible legacy knife as I rotate my edc every few days and a legacy knife should be heavily used and favored over others. Then I realized that starting just a few weeks ago, a certain knife has taken up permanent residence in my pocket no matter what other knives I may be carrying. It is always with me and I try to find something useful for it to do every day. I have not had this experience before...of daily carrying one singular knife no matter if I am carrying one or two others. I believe that I am in the process of acquiring a legacy knife. Or perhaps it has acquired me. What is it? A simple Ulster Stockman. Carry it in a leather slip.
Re: My legacy knife.
Well, after Dinadan's eloquent, persuasive recommendation of Schrade Walden, and having lost all interest in any "distorted echo" of its current replicas ( with all due credit to Taylor Brands for reviving the old classic line) I took a chance on my first auction of a Schrade Walden 108OT, an almost full bladed beauty with a superb patina, because I also remember how Jerry had praised his own 108OT.Dinadan wrote:......... If I were, it would not be one of those Taylor Schrade knives. I have one, and while it seemed pretty good at first, it is really just a distorted echo of the quality of the original Schrades. I would go with either Case or GEC or else a real Schrade Walden. And though it is kind of sad to say, my number one choice would be a Delrin handle Schrade Walden. Sad in the sense that I have not come across any current production knives that I think are as good for every day use.
I was there watching the seconds countdown with my finger poised over the bid button, raising my bid every time the repeated red line told me I was out bid.
With a few minutes left the red line stopped telling me I was out bid so I stopped raising my bid till the end.
I even thought I had won but somehow I was outbid without knowing it by 50 cents I still don't know how, maybe lack of experience
My bid was # 20 out of 21 bids.
That's a lot of bids, so kudos to the winner . The better man won..................this time.
Re: My legacy knife.
Edgewise - I guess all of us have had that experience. One time on Ebay I had noticed an old Craftsman (made by Schrade Walden) with a broken tip on a secondary blade. It had a starting bid price of 19.95 and it went through the auction cycle twice and never got a bit. The third time I saw it come up I got to looking at it and figured out how I would reprofile the broken blade, so I put a bid of $20 on it. I could not believe it when I checked Ebay - someone else had got it for $21.00! That incident kind of made me paranoid - is some kind of spyware following me around to outbid me?
If a knife is something that I really want, I need to be watching Ebay but not bidding until the time is down to thirty seconds. Then I bid as much as I am willing to bid. I have done that and put my max bid if for $50 and been top bidder for a couple of seconds: then seen the bidding top out at over $80. At least two other folks were doing exactly what I was doing but with higher maximums.
If a knife is something that I really want, I need to be watching Ebay but not bidding until the time is down to thirty seconds. Then I bid as much as I am willing to bid. I have done that and put my max bid if for $50 and been top bidder for a couple of seconds: then seen the bidding top out at over $80. At least two other folks were doing exactly what I was doing but with higher maximums.
Mel
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Re: My legacy knife.
Is this a 33OT ?
Marked "Schrade+/U.S.A. LTD"; 3 3/8", black saw-cut Delrin handles.
33OT were supposed to have non stainless steel but towards the end they could have been stainless but not marked with "+".
kj
Marked "Schrade+/U.S.A. LTD"; 3 3/8", black saw-cut Delrin handles.
33OT were supposed to have non stainless steel but towards the end they could have been stainless but not marked with "+".
kj
- TwoFlowersLuggage
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Re: My legacy knife.
Ebay bidding: It is called "sniping" and has been around as long as ebay has existed. You have to realize that ebay is NOT like a live auction. It is "proxy bidding". You can't try to inch your way up to pay the least price. You have to bid the maximum amount you are willing to pay and then let the eBay software decide who is going to win. The software does the back and forth, not you. This is nice because it means I don't need to be watching the auction when the bidding ends and I can still win. HOWEVER. This is also where the timing comes into play. If you bid your maximum early and you aren't there at the end, then all I have to do is bid higher than you and if there are no other bidders, I'll win by 50 cents. So, the trick is to NOT bid AT ALL until the last possible moment, then bid as much as you are actually willing to pay. That way, you aren't advertising your interest in the product, and you don't give other people a chance to outbid you. BUT, now you are back to needing to be there at the very end and being very, very quick on the button to time it just right without missing it. If you get the bid in and are the high bidder, you win. If someone else bid more, then fine - it went for more than you wanted to pay, so let it go.
And, there are computer programs that will allow you to do the sniping automatically. This allows the bid to go in reliably with literally just 1-2 seconds remaining AND you don't need to be there when the auction ends. Some of these programs are quite sophisticated. Let's say you want to buy a specific product, and at the moment, there are 3 different listings. You can set-up snipes on all three, and if you win the first one to end, then it won't bid on #2 or #3, or if you lose #1, it will go ahead and try for #2, etc.
It's been a while since I have researched this stuff. At one time, ebay was actively trying to stop sniping (not successfully!), but I know this caused the snipe programs to constantly stop working and need to be reworked. There are most definitely security concerns with sniping - the sniping programs need to have your ebay username & password so they can place bids as you.
Bottom line is: you really don't need to worry about ANY of this. If you just bid the maximum you are actually willing to pay, then if you lose, it wasn't meant to be. Sure, it might look like you only lost by 50 cents, but that's not really true. You don't know what the other guy's maximum bid really was. He might have been willing to pay MUCH more than you.
And, there are computer programs that will allow you to do the sniping automatically. This allows the bid to go in reliably with literally just 1-2 seconds remaining AND you don't need to be there when the auction ends. Some of these programs are quite sophisticated. Let's say you want to buy a specific product, and at the moment, there are 3 different listings. You can set-up snipes on all three, and if you win the first one to end, then it won't bid on #2 or #3, or if you lose #1, it will go ahead and try for #2, etc.
It's been a while since I have researched this stuff. At one time, ebay was actively trying to stop sniping (not successfully!), but I know this caused the snipe programs to constantly stop working and need to be reworked. There are most definitely security concerns with sniping - the sniping programs need to have your ebay username & password so they can place bids as you.
Bottom line is: you really don't need to worry about ANY of this. If you just bid the maximum you are actually willing to pay, then if you lose, it wasn't meant to be. Sure, it might look like you only lost by 50 cents, but that's not really true. You don't know what the other guy's maximum bid really was. He might have been willing to pay MUCH more than you.
"The Luggage had a straightforward way of dealing with things between it and its intended destination: it ignored them." -Terry Pratchett
Re: My legacy knife.
Thanks twoflowersluggage, now I can stop spinning top in mud.
If my high bid wins, do I pay my whole bid or just 50 cents more than the previous bid?
I don't want to pay to my bid limit if I can get it for less.
If my high bid wins, do I pay my whole bid or just 50 cents more than the previous bid?
I don't want to pay to my bid limit if I can get it for less.
- TwoFlowersLuggage
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Re: My legacy knife.
You pay only what it takes to beat everyone else by the minimum bid increment. So, if the other guy's max bid was $21.03, and you bid $50, then you will win at $21.53. BTW, it's not always 50 cents more. The minimum bid increment increases as the current bid price increases. Here is the table: http://pages.ebay.com/help/buy/bid-increments.html#what
HOWEVER, don't bid more than you are willing to pay. That's tempting if you think you are the only bidder and you want to make sure you don't get sniped at the end - but do not do it. If there is another bidder that thinks the same way, then one of you is going to pay way too much for that item and the only one who will win is the seller!
HOWEVER, don't bid more than you are willing to pay. That's tempting if you think you are the only bidder and you want to make sure you don't get sniped at the end - but do not do it. If there is another bidder that thinks the same way, then one of you is going to pay way too much for that item and the only one who will win is the seller!
"The Luggage had a straightforward way of dealing with things between it and its intended destination: it ignored them." -Terry Pratchett
Re: My legacy knife.
Wow, thanks for filling me in on that info., twoflowersluggage.
I still haven't stopped discovering the value of AAPK's support system.
I still haven't stopped discovering the value of AAPK's support system.
Re: My legacy knife.
Don't really have a legacy knife ... closest is a USA Parker damascus pen knife that I bought new & carried for about 15 years before I got into Case knives. I like the idea that I own every scratch and mark on that knife. Nowdays, I have a fair stash of Case knives that I like, and I rotate all of them for daily carry, so none of them get much wear.
As for eBay, I've been a sniper for close to 15 years. If I want something bad enough, I set what my wife calls "my ebay alarm" on my phone, so that the alarm goes off a few minutes before the end of auction. That gives me time to get up from the table or tv, make my way to the computer, find the auction and get everything set up so I enter my bid in the last few seconds. eBay makes the count down part easy - there's a stop watch countdown right above where you enter the amount of your bid. Figure by sniping, nobody will have time to react to out bid me ... and if their bid ends up being higher, so be it - they simply wanted it more than I did. The new computer sniping programs are annoying though ... if I get my bid in 2 seconds before end of auction, they can still beat me.
To be successful on eBay (actually, it's more like to pay as little as possible on eBay and still win - meaning, not giving the competition time to incrementally bid up your high bid), you have to be willing to get a sniping routine figured out - it's survival of the fittest and you're trying to beat everyone else ... nice ends for me when I get off the couch and make my way back to the computer.
As for eBay, I've been a sniper for close to 15 years. If I want something bad enough, I set what my wife calls "my ebay alarm" on my phone, so that the alarm goes off a few minutes before the end of auction. That gives me time to get up from the table or tv, make my way to the computer, find the auction and get everything set up so I enter my bid in the last few seconds. eBay makes the count down part easy - there's a stop watch countdown right above where you enter the amount of your bid. Figure by sniping, nobody will have time to react to out bid me ... and if their bid ends up being higher, so be it - they simply wanted it more than I did. The new computer sniping programs are annoying though ... if I get my bid in 2 seconds before end of auction, they can still beat me.
To be successful on eBay (actually, it's more like to pay as little as possible on eBay and still win - meaning, not giving the competition time to incrementally bid up your high bid), you have to be willing to get a sniping routine figured out - it's survival of the fittest and you're trying to beat everyone else ... nice ends for me when I get off the couch and make my way back to the computer.
pffffft that's not a knife ......... now THAT'S a knife !! Crocodile Dundee
John
John
Re: My legacy knife.
That makes me feel like playing the game for the game more than for the knife.
Re: My legacy knife.
LOL - I never thought of it that way, but the eBay sniping "game" is pretty fun, especially if you WIN !Edgewise wrote:That makes me feel like playing the game for the game more than for the knife.
pffffft that's not a knife ......... now THAT'S a knife !! Crocodile Dundee
John
John
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Re: My legacy knife.
The only problem with this game is that the more you "win", the more in debt you will be...
"The Luggage had a straightforward way of dealing with things between it and its intended destination: it ignored them." -Terry Pratchett
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Re: My legacy knife.
My legacy knife. PAL carbon steel camper. Easy to get razor sharp and I find myself using the screwdriver in can opener often. I believe it is from the early to mid fifties
Knife collecting Deadhead
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Re: My legacy knife.
I always snipe on ebay and have always wondered why more people do not do so. I succeed at least 90% of the time.
Re: My legacy knife.
I'm gonna have to try that "ebay alarm". I sat at the computer during the holidays, watching this one-
all set to put in a last second bid a good bit more than the $14.xx it went for, and just as the time was coming to a close, I got caught up in a conversation just long enough to look up and see "closed".
As to the topic of legacy knives, you could always grab a well-worn knife from the 80's, pass it down as your great, great, great grandaddy's knife he used to fight off the injuns, and give everybody here a good laugh when they come on wanting more info on it.
all set to put in a last second bid a good bit more than the $14.xx it went for, and just as the time was coming to a close, I got caught up in a conversation just long enough to look up and see "closed".
As to the topic of legacy knives, you could always grab a well-worn knife from the 80's, pass it down as your great, great, great grandaddy's knife he used to fight off the injuns, and give everybody here a good laugh when they come on wanting more info on it.
Lan
Re: My legacy knife.
I think kj may have had pity on me and sent me this skitb (swift kick etc.) beauty along with a Camillus sword brand 882, both strong legacy knife contenders and the best skitb I ever got . They are new and unused, factory condition, my current favorite pattern, my two top brands, ( I love that Schrade shield ) and more than I deserve, and I didn't even have to sneak them in to avoid disapproving looks and interrogation.kootenay joe wrote:Is this a 33OT ?
Marked "Schrade+/U.S.A. LTD"; 3 3/8", black saw-cut Delrin handles.
33OT were supposed to have non stainless steel but towards the end they could have been stainless but not marked with "+".
kj
They may be still a bit too much for the sheeple outside my warehouse working environment so Jerry's little Camillus #77 comes in there. It's the same length as a peanut but even more discrete looking.
Ain't it great when outright, spontaneous, unmotivated generosity supplies your knife needs? And what better reason for choosing your own legacy knife(s).