A few I've pottered with

[Brumbydownunder]

Started tinkering with knife customizing about 3 years back .... these are a few of them. All are users by the way

[XX Case XX]

Wow those are real nice. I like how there's no gap between the bolster and the edge of the handle. That's one of my pet peeves, I hate gaps. If that's just tinkering, I'd love to see what you can really do...

__________
Mike

[Shearer]

Nice work.
Being a Old Timer knife collector I like the one on the bottom right.

Grant

[philco]

Those are an excellent testimony to your skills. Very well done.

[Landersknives]

Very nice work and a very nice group of knives. Something to be proud of for sure. Great tinkering!

[orvet]

That is a nice herd Grant!
Great work!

[Brumbydownunder]

Thanks for the encouraging comments Folks, it's something I get a lot of satisfaction out of. I don't have any commercial aspirations its all for purely for the enjoyment of bringing old knives back to life.

Closer view of the walnut on the knife bottom left above finished with Birchwood Casey 'True Oil'

[XX Case XX]

Thanks for the encouraging comments Folks, it's something I get a lot of satisfaction out of. I don't have any commercial aspirations its all for purely for the enjoyment of bringing old knives back to life.

Closer view of the walnut on the knife bottom left above finished with Birchwood Casey 'True Oil'

DSCN6604.JPG

Now just out of curiosity, what exactly does that "True Oil" do? Does it absorb into the wood to give it a "rich" kind of look to it? Kind of like using a variety of stains on a gun stock to achieve different shades? It looks very nice.

___________
Mike

[Brumbydownunder]

Now just out of curiosity, what exactly does that "True Oil" do? Does it absorb into the wood to give it a "rich" kind of look to it? Kind of like using a variety of stains on a gun stock to achieve different shades? It looks very nice.

___________
Mike[/quote]

Mike there are a lot of oil finishes out there that do 'similar' things. Firstly they seal and water proof the wood by filling the pores and grain .... and by applying lots of very thin coats it builds up a luster that highlights the wood's natural features (it does not add any color) On a small surface like this knife handle for each coat I used not much more than a dab on the end of a match then really worked it into the grain with the palm of my hand, letting it dry thoroughly between coats.

Once there are enough coats (when you get the 'look' you want) the finish can be left "as is" or you can rub it back to give it more of a satin or matte finish. Birchwood Casey actually supply a 'rubbing compound' for this purpose or you can use 0000 steel wool.

Cheers Derek

[americanedgetech]

What a wonderful group BrumbyD!
Did you make the copper bolster(s) on that first Colonial?

You have too many nice modifications on all of them for me too compliment them all so I'll just say that you must be quite proud to show them around.
I think I would begin rebuilding for friends if I were you.
It just may turn into a fun way to earn some free breakfasts while you sip coffee, and have your buddies admire your skills.

[Brumbydownunder]

What a wonderful group BrumbyD!
Did you make the copper bolster(s) on that first Colonial?

You have too many nice modifications on all of them for me too compliment them all so I'll just say that you must be quite proud to show them around.
I think I would begin rebuilding for friends if I were you.
It just may turn into a fun way to earn some free breakfasts while you sip coffee, and have your buddies admire your skills.

Cheers @americanedgetech Appreciate the compliments. The Knife on the bottom left still has it's original liners and bolsters.
For all the other knives I only used the original spring & blade from the 'donor' knife - all other components... Liners, Bolsters, Handle Material & Pins I made.
It's all good fun & rewarding

Derek

[americanedgetech]

That is quite humbling Derek.
I'm still working on the shop, and a few odd tools but with all the inspiration, and great workmanship here on the forum, I have a high bar to aim for.

Your workbench... Is that aluminum?
I ask because I have just finished building my bench top, and I thought I was being all so clever, and used a 3/16" marine fuel tank bottom (aluminum) for my bench top.
I can see limitless advantages to using it.

[orvet]

Your workbench... Is that aluminum?
I ask because I have just finished building my bench top, and I thought I was being all so clever, and used a 3/16" marine fuel tank bottom (aluminum) for my bench top.
I can see limitless advantages to using it.

I have used metal topped workbenches before, and they are outstanding for large heavy parts like when working on automobiles or farm equipment. There is nothing better for working on large heavy items, however I have had enough things roll off a metal workbench and even have had small items bounce and roll off of the bench and onto the floor. It has been my experience that recovery of small parts once they hit the floor is about 75%.

My main workbench is a portion of a solid core exterior door. It is heavy and I can bolt vises to the bench top and screw things into it when convenient. I cover the wooden surface of the front half of the bench with toolbox drawer liners. I preferred the brand sold by Harbor Freight; I find it less expensive and more durable than other brands. They are not expensive and I can often pick them up on sale. When I drop a small screw, spring, pin or any other small part on my bench covered with this drawer liner it does not bounce or roll.

I realize this choice is not for everyone, and it would not work if you use the same workbench for rebuilding your transmission. But on my workbench that is used almost exclusively for knives, this is what I use.

[americanedgetech]

Your points on bits dropping out of sight have been proven out a jillion times in my life. When I first opened my marine shop I was in a gravel floored pole barn. It was quite large 40x30 but every item that hit the floor was swallowed up.

I have another of these aluminum toped benches, and the best thing I found for keeping items on them are the silver ware drawer liners you get at the dollar store. Shelf liners I think... They are sort of a webbed silicone material so tiny things actually get trapped the moment they hit it.
Then if I need a heavy work space, just ditch the liners to the side, and bang drill, paint, fiberglass right on top of it, and wipe the debris away.
There is a picture of one in the "Outgassing" thread that is my lab bench, and I'll post some picts. when this one is finished.
I'm also gluing up a 24"x15"x1-1/2" iron wood "cutting board, and ordering a 20"x20"x2" slab of granite off of Flea bay.
Those, and a stiddy that I'm machining a removable/replaceable tang for... I'm hoping that should do me.

Thanks for the heads up Dale. that is a valid point!
(I'll add the other bench here...)

[Brumbydownunder]

The work station I stand at for a lot of my work has a soft vinyl surface - it's an old office machine stand of some sort - the best part is there is a small raised edge all the way around it about 1/4 inch high which stops most things from hitting the floor - including all sorts of dust and filings

On top of the bench I often use a slab of aluminium roughly 12 inches square and 1/2 inch thick ... handy for a lot of things I do and because it's softer than most of the metals I am working with, unlikely to mark/damage them.

Derek

[americanedgetech]

The work station I stand at for a lot of my work has a soft vinyl surface - it's an old office machine stand of some sort - the best part is there is a small raised edge all the way around it about 1/4 inch high which stops most things from hitting the floor - including all sorts of dust and filings

On top of the bench I often use a slab of aluminium roughly 12 inches square and 1/2 inch thick ... handy for a lot of things I do and because it's softer than most of the metals I am working with, unlikely to mark/damage them.

DSCN4180.JPG

Derek

Aluminum being softer than most of the knife parts, and other things that I will work on was my main reason for choosing it.
add to that the fact that this is a 34 year old marine fuel tank... there is enough patina that it looks like I've been doing this forever!

Well... I can't wait to see more of your work, and get some more inspiration!!!