So far, I've found I can't sharpen worth a lick, but I can hone blades to keep them sharp without issue. As long as I do it regularly and properly, they stay sharp.
I finally got one hair popping sharp today.
Knife: Antonini Cable Knife, an inexpensive work knife made in Maniago, Italy. Steel is said to be simply AISI 420, a basic steel, but because the company making the knives knows what they're doing, it's hardened well. Not a super steel, and easy to sharpen. Not really that sharp new, and it's been used rough.
Tool, a small ceramic hone that was marked on its leather slip "EXIDE WEST VIRGINIA SLICK". It is MUCH better than the cheap ones from stores today. It's made to be held with the wide sides in your hand, and then use the round, narrow sides to sharpen on. I do wash it after use with Comet. From what I looked up, "WEST VIRGINIA SLICK" was a brand used by a local businessman for about 20 years for sharpening gear (early '80s-'99 when the trademark was not renewed), largely crock stick sharpeners. Guessing the little sharpener was produced as an Exide giveaway item. Granddad did a ton of business with Exide in the mines, and they gave him two. I use them both.
And the results to prove it.
My technique I've identified as the problem. I was able to eyeball it, as I started the five strokes I made on each side, to ensure I was following the factory bevel and edge.
I will have a few of the knives I ruined bevels on professionally resharpened, and then use that bevel to hone them later on.
Finally Getting It Right.
Re: Finally Getting It Right.
There's nothing like success, Cody, Good for you.
May I kindly ask, since you are simply removing metal to create a fine cutting edge on a previously designed "proper" bevel, do you think you could get the same results with a six or eight inch carborundum stone? I can't recall if you have tried to use stones before. Even the fine side of a carborundum stone can get you fairly quick results. I use water.
I don't know when I have used a ceramic stone and I wouldn't discount them at all but they're rather fine aren't they?
Of course I haven't seen your bevels but I doubt that they are ruined. They just need a refined touchup.
If you have tried to use stones before and your results aren't what you expected I fear you have thrown in the towel too soon. Mistake are made to be overcome and when you can make corrections you can find your self on another path to success. I wonder how the professional knife sharpener will restore the bevels.
Good luck with it all, it looks like you have a sharp knife there.
May I kindly ask, since you are simply removing metal to create a fine cutting edge on a previously designed "proper" bevel, do you think you could get the same results with a six or eight inch carborundum stone? I can't recall if you have tried to use stones before. Even the fine side of a carborundum stone can get you fairly quick results. I use water.
I don't know when I have used a ceramic stone and I wouldn't discount them at all but they're rather fine aren't they?
Of course I haven't seen your bevels but I doubt that they are ruined. They just need a refined touchup.
If you have tried to use stones before and your results aren't what you expected I fear you have thrown in the towel too soon. Mistake are made to be overcome and when you can make corrections you can find your self on another path to success. I wonder how the professional knife sharpener will restore the bevels.
Good luck with it all, it looks like you have a sharp knife there.
Joe
Re: Finally Getting It Right.
Hey Cody, good work and welcome to the ranks of fur bearing mammals with bare forearms.
I’m only semi pro, but I’ll rebevel any knives you want to send me on a 220 grit Tormek wheel. It produces a toothy working edge which you can refine to your liking.
PM me if you want.
Parker
I’m only semi pro, but I’ll rebevel any knives you want to send me on a 220 grit Tormek wheel. It produces a toothy working edge which you can refine to your liking.
PM me if you want.
Parker