Gunstock Jack wrote:Yeah Johnny; it's embarassing goin' around with all those bald spots and stubble on your arm. I wanted to try it on my wife's leg, but she wouldn't stand still for it!!!
"Wouldn't stand still for it!!
Oh God Jack, you kill me. I don't care who you are, that's funny.
Forged on the anvil of discipline.
The Few. The Proud.
Jerry D.
This country has become more about sub-groups than about it's unity as a nation.
"The #72 pattern has got to be pretty close to the perfect knife."
--T.J. Murphy 2012
HOW ABOUT THE OLD CASE MOON STONES AND STICKS? I HAVE ONE OF THE STICKS THAT I CARRY ON HUNTING TRIPS AND I THOUGHT IT WORKED PRETTY GOOD FOR TOUCHING IT UP.
Gunstock Jack wrote:Also, while shaving sharp is cool, it isn't necessarily the best edge to have on a knife, as a steeper bevel will outlast an extremely shallow one, as there is more steel to back up (reinforce) the edge. JMHO
I had a rather lengthy conversation with C. Risner the other day and the subject of sharpening came up, he told the same thing.
I ended up returning the KME and got a Lansky. I replaced the thumb screw with a smaller hex screw, and am able to put a 20 degree edge on most of my smaller Bucks.
I still plan on getting a smaller flat head screw for it. I don't know why the manufacturer doesn't see the problem with the thumb screw getting in the way for a large number of blades.
One thing I noticed with the clamping systems that I havent heard mentioned. When clamping a small blade at the edge of the clamp, where the indents are, it's very easy to accidentally change the angle of the knife in the clamp if you press on the stone too hard, or bump the knife while youre handling or flipping the clamp ..... and when you first clamp it in, it isn't necessarily always perfectly parallel to the clamp. Exerting a little pressure, even when quite tight, can change the position of the blade in the clamp.
I've been exercising care to eyeball it straight, clamp it tight, and be gentle enough to avoid knocking the blade out of alignment.
Also: Good points about the oils, Jack. I didn't realize WD 40 could be used. Probably would work well to clean the stones too.
I've had trouble with the blade slipping around as well. I tried a few different things and found that a small piece of blue painter's tape on the blade under the clamp helps hold it in position. It also keeps the clamp (and any grit on it) from scratching the blade.
I have used the carbide "V" type sharpeners.
They are fine for garden tools but I will not use them on good knives.
I saw too many knives that people messed up with those.
Sometimes the knife blade will chatter with that type sharpener.
When that happens the edge looks like a do-it-yourself serrated knife, but very erratic and not at all uniform.
My nephew brought me some knives of his to sharpen and one of them was really messed up from that type sharpener.
I use one in the garden for my hoe & winged weeder (or a machete) but I won't use them on a good knife that I want to keep a nice straight edge on.
Jack is right, IMHO. Even when used properly they remove a lot of metal.
I use a stone but just wanted to see what everyone thought about these type sharpeners....The first benchmade one looked pretty cool.
But after these bad reviews...NO THANKS!!
Thanks for the info guys...just another reason I love AAPK!!
These aren't the best, but they are what I am using. Spyderco Triangle, Fallkniven DC4, Japanese waterstones, micromesh on leather backing, various strops
Depending on the metal. An average kitchen knife? a fine Arkansas stone and a leather strop or belt. While swishing the blade on the leather, be careful not to cut yourself. Take your time. I have also used two diamond sticks and always the leather last to polish the edge.
