Olympische-Spiele Berlin 1936

[BrownFox]

This Berlin Olympics 1936 pocket knife has been stored and ignored in a cardboard box for many years. Both blades are extremely sharp and there is no play in the blades. It was left to me by my uncle who was 18 in 1936. My father, who was 16 in 1936 has no recollection of this knife but tells me that there was no money from the farm income available to purchase a souvenir such as this. So we assume it was a present.

I’m thinking of using this knife as my EDC because it is thin, light and has terrific conversational value. However I want to show it the respect due by its advanced age. Any and all information that you can provide to me about it will be greatly appreciated.

Length closed = 3 5/8 inches.
Length both blades opened = 7 6/8 inches.
Large blade has a stamp = ‘Carl Schmidt Sohn’, a building in the middle and ‘Solingen’ underneath.
Small blade has no markings that I can see.
Olympic rings appear to be grey, (faded from blue?) yellow, black, green, yellow (faded from red?).

How do I determine whether this has a celluloid handle?
What is the best way to clean this knife while retaining any value?
How can I identify the steel used in the blades?
Thanks!

[Mumbleypeg]

Welcome to AAPK and congratulations on having a family heirloom knife. Those are really special!

You've asked enough good questions to require an entire essay to answer them all so I'll try to be brief. Your knife doesn't appear from the pictures to be badly rusted. The veteran collectors here on AAPK have stuff we've purchased especially for knife cleaning. I'm gonna assume you don't have any of that, so my recommendations will use stuff you likely have on hand.

First I'd apply a thin coat of light oil (like 3-in-1 for example) to the blades. Let it soak in for a few minutes or so, then rub it off with a soft cloth. Much of the rust will disappear. If any remains use a sharpened number 2 lead pencil, rub on the rust with the "lead". This is a very mild, fine textured abrasive. Wipe it off, repeat as needed.

If that still doesn't remove it, turn the pencil around and use the eraser end. This is a more aggressive abrasive but still fairly mild. Rub the offending spots with the eraser, gently at first. Don't rub any harder than you have to! Wipe the blade after each attempt to see if you can stop. Don't do any more than you have to. Don't rub on any areas that are not tarnished.

If you have any metal polish, such as Mothers Mag, Semi-chrome, Flitz, or similar, use as directed. I doubt you'll need anything more aggressive on the pictured knife. If there is any dirt, lint, etc in the blade wells it can be removed with a cotton swab, or a soft cloth or tissue on the end of a match stick or broken toothpick. Some rubbing alcohol or light oil on the swab may help and won't hurt anything in the blade wells, just be sure to keep it off the handles, which, given its age, I suspect may be celluloid. (See here for some techniques for confirming celluloid http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... id#p542630. Havent tried these personally - you're on your own there!):lol:

Go slow, be patient. A little slip or going too far too fast without checking your progress can inflict damage that can't be reversed. When you've finished wipe the blades with a light coat of oil, put a drop (one drop) into each blade hinge and work the blade open and closed a few times. Wipe off any excess. You're done! I doubt your knife will require anything more extensive than what I've outlined but just in case it's more severe, see this AAPK thread for recommendations. http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... 38&t=47909

If you decide to carry it, given that it's an heirloom I'd get a knife pouch to place the knife in while its in your pocket. Similar to these https://www.etsy.com/shop/CIRKLEBLEATHER/items, or these https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SK803/ ... ix-pouches. Or you can make your own out of felt, if you can sew a little (or know somone who can do it for you). This will protect it from banging around and being scratched by other stuff in your pocket, like keys and coins.

Good luck!

Ken

[BrownFox]

Thank you Mumbleypeg, for your complete and detailed answer. You are correct that I do have 3-in-1 oil in my cupboard and it has done its job well. The tip about using a pencil was amazing. I had never heard about using a pencil like that before so I had to try it too! I don't have any metal polish but have decided my knife looks fine without it. I have considered your thoughts about the knife being an heirloom so I have decided to display it on a shelf with other memorabilia rather than carry it. This way I can pass my heirloom knife down to another generation in as good condition as possible.

I'll continue to carry my trusty Victorinox Weekender. Interestingly, I don't recall ever using oil on my SAK, however I have occasionally washed it in warm water with dish soap since I bought it in the mid 70's. I can hear the gasps of horror now With the reduced use of corks for wine bottles and common use of twist tops, I don't need the tools so much now that I have used extensively in the past. But the blades are easy to keep sharp and it is still my preferred can opener when car camping.

Thanks again and 2 thumbs up for your advice!

[knife7knut]

I would add only one thing to what was said before:PLEASE do not open both blades like that at the same time! It puts a HUGE strain on the back spring of a knife to the point that they will sometimes snap in two. Don't ask me how I know this.

[Mumbleypeg]

Thank you Mumbleypeg, for your complete and detailed answer. You are correct that I do have 3-in-1 oil in my cupboard and it has done its job well. The tip about using a pencil was amazing. I had never heard about using a pencil like that before so I had to try it too! I don't have any metal polish but have decided my knife looks fine without it. I have considered your thoughts about the knife being an heirloom so I have decided to display it on a shelf with other memorabilia rather than carry it. This way I can pass my heirloom knife down to another generation in as good condition as possible.

I'll continue to carry my trusty Victorinox Weekender. Interestingly, I don't recall ever using oil on my SAK, however I have occasionally washed it in warm water with dish soap since I bought it in the mid 70's. I can hear the gasps of horror now With the reduced use of corks for wine bottles and common use of twist tops, I don't need the tools so much now that I have used extensively in the past. But the blades are easy to keep sharp and it is still my preferred can opener when car camping.

Thanks again and 2 thumbs up for your advice!

You're very welcome and thanks for the reply letting us know the recommendations worked. How about some "after" pictures?

Nothing at all wrong with warm water and dish soap. I didn't recommend that on your heirloom knife because of the probability of the handles being celluloid - it's peculiar stuff. However I do strongly recommend a drop of lube on each blade's hinge periodically, on any and all knives. You'll be doing your SAK and yourself a favor by oiling it.

Ken

[kootenay joe]

Knives from 1936 Olympics are rarely seen in any condition and your knife is in good condition.
Most old used pocket knives are not worth much but i think yours is worth at least $100 to a collector of knives connected to the Olympics.
kj

[Berryb]

I've been collecting Olympics odds and ends for several years and have never seen anything that cool. I'd give a hundred bucks for it in a heartbeat and I'm a legendary cheapskate. The problem is; if I had it I'd have to throw away the rest of my collection.
Bruce

[Colonel26]

Just because of the historical significance I don't think I'd pack it, no way, no how.

It's a beautiful piece. And a great piece of history.

[btrwtr]

Very cool old knife. The handles are ivory celluloid.