This forum is for posting step by step techniques used in the art of making, customizing, and repairing knives. Please stop by and teach a few things or maybe learn something new from the talented members of AAPK.
muskrat man wrote:I normally don't countersink, I had problems with cracking the handles when I first started but have gotten the "feel" off peening, and can "feel" when it's right. Bolsters are pre countersunk slightly when made so no worries there. I hope to do some more various tutorials in the future so stay tuned
is it best not to counter sink when peening the pins? Any tips for a newbie on peening?
I recently did a desert ironwood LB7 and had some fine cracks appear next to a couple of pins.
for a 3/32 hole I counter sunk it a bit with a 7/64s bit. If you do countersink how deep should you go?
muskrat man wrote:I normally don't countersink, I had problems with cracking the handles when I first started but have gotten the "feel" off peening, and can "feel" when it's right. Bolsters are pre countersunk slightly when made so no worries there. I hope to do some more various tutorials in the future so stay tuned
is it best not to counter sink when peening the pins? Any tips for a newbie on peening?
I recently did a desert ironwood LB7 and had some fine cracks appear next to a couple of pins.
for a 3/32 hole I counter sunk it a bit with a 7/64s bit. If you do countersink how deep should you go?
Thanks,
Snorkel
countersink with a bit only a few thousandths larger, about 1/2 the depth of the scale. this should help hold the scale while reducing the risk for cracking the scale(s)
Here are a couple of things that may help with those who do repairs or that make new folders hope that it will help someone.
To pre-load the spring here is something that I was told by J.B. Moore one of the oldest and one of the best foldermakers that I have had the prevlidge of knowing. Get a large double C vice-grips, A 2 x 4 x 8 block of wood, and some try pins.
I do not drill my center pin into the liners until the blade and spring are heat treated, and ready for assembly. Place the liners on the wood and drill for the pivot pin and the heal pin. Place one liner outside down and place the pins in both the blade-pivot and the spring heal pin. Now using the vice grips against the edge of the wood and against the back of the spring and slowly increase the tension to the point that it will walk and talk properly. This is the point that I drill the center pin into the liner. Then remove everthing and place the non drilled liner outside down onto the block and pin, then place the drilled liner and drill the center pin. Now you are ready to assemble the complete knife.
I have been using this method for making slip-joints for six years now, and you can put the proper amount of tension on the spring.
One other thing is that if you are using a spinner to dome the pins is to use a tapered reamer to slightly taper the pin hole (normally only about 1/16" is all that is necessary). The slight taper is very minimal to say the least, but will hold well. If you are using annealed brass or nickel silver to be spinned for the pinholes, the spinner if done properly in this manner will also expand into the taper as well as pressure against the sidewalls of the pinholes. Using this method you could even grind the button off the head of the pin and it will still hold well. I have done this quite a few times in the past and it does work. But just make sure that the pin material is annealed prior to being spun.
Hope that this is of some help to others in the future.
Curtis
Hello! I am a 15 year old aspiring “knife mechanic” if you will, with a nice little workshop packed in a one car garage. Recently I attempted to re handle this old keen kutter, the celluloid scales were horrendous, but I could tell this was a well loved knife as the main blade was reground into a screwdriver. There are some gaps, and looking at them makes me want to throw it out a window, but hey, it was a good learning experience and it’s still a solid and functioning old jack knife. Here are a couple pictures I thought I would share.
Cooter wrote: ↑Tue Aug 31, 2021 2:21 pm
Hello! I am a 15 year old aspiring “knife mechanic” if you will, with a nice little workshop packed in a one car garage. Recently I attempted to re handle this old keen kutter, the celluloid scales were horrendous, but I could tell this was a well loved knife as the main blade was reground into a screwdriver. There are some gaps, and looking at them makes me want to throw it out a window, but hey, it was a good learning experience and it’s still a solid and functioning old jack knife. Here are a couple pictures I thought I would share.
Hey, it's still functional, right? And you pinned everything through also! Most on their first knife don't pin the covers (myself included). It's all about getting up the courage to take the darn thing apart in the first place.
Looks pretty decent from here. Get in there and do another!
