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PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 8:00 pm 
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Hi,
I have several LB7s and a buck 110 and am interested in putting some custom scales on them.

I am pretty confident about getting the rear brass pins out, but I am concerned about the front and pivot pins and I am not sure if those are stainless or nickel/silver.

Any info on how to properly disassemble/reassemble this type of knife would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Snorkel

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 1:12 am 
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Check in the tutorials - Dale (orvet) has step by step instructions, with pictures. That's how I learned to do it. It sure saves a lot of ruined knives by the "trial and error" methods. I've used tutorials by several regular AAPK contributors and I've printed them in a binder that I can refer to as I'm taking knives apart and putting them back together.

Basically, you need a strong utility razor blade,(or an old knife blade ) a vise, and a soft face hammer - then follow directions.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 1:54 am 
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knives4sale wrote:
Check in the tutorials - Dale (orvet) has step by step instructions, with pictures. That's how I learned to do it. It sure saves a lot of ruined knives by the "trial and error" methods. I've used tutorials by several regular AAPK contributors and I've printed them in a binder that I can refer to as I'm taking knives apart and putting them back together.

Basically, you need a strong utility razor blade,(or an old knife blade ) a vise, and a soft face hammer - then follow directions.



Yep, saw the one by Dale, and was very helpful, but it was for a non locking type knife.

Do you know if the pivot pin in the LB7/buck 110 is stainless or nickel?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 3:09 pm 
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I am glad the tutorial was helpful.

One note on the big knives like the Buck 110, LB7, 6OT, 7OT and big knives like that;
They use pretty large pins in the construction of those knives, many are 1/8" pins.
That is a pretty big pin to cut by driving it down on a razor blade. You might end up with razor blade shrapnel.

When I remove large pins like that I usually drill them.
Be sure to use a center punch and peen a pilot hole in the center of the pin.
If you have a hard time finding the pin, sometimes they will show up if you rough up the bolsters (just a little) with a Scotch Brite wheel or 600 grit sandpaper should work as well.

With the drill press I usually drill a 1/16" pilot hole to be sure I am centered and then drill down about 3/8" with a 3/32" drill.
Then I use a 3/32" pin punch to drive the pin out. Sometimes I have to drill both sides to relieve the pressure on the taper.

Be sure to drill only in the pin, or else you have a hole in the bolster. :shock:

Dale

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 4:46 pm 
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Hi Dale,
very helpful thank you.

Do you know what the front and pivot pins are made from? are they nickel or stainless?
I am pretty confident about getting them out now, but unsure as where to get the new pins and what the silver ones are
made of. Is it ok to replace the lockbar pivot pin with brass? I see a lot of newer lockbacks use a brass pin there.

For the brass pins can I just use the brass rods they have at the hardware store?

oh, also where can I get a pin spinner to use on the bigger knifes like the LB7 and 110?

Thanks,

Snorkel.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:08 pm 
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I know on most of the schrade lockbacks the pins in pivot are steel (there's a few rebuild's where I've mentioned that I think). I can't say the same for Buck, but once you get the pin out, just stick a magnet on it to see if it's steel or not. I actually keep a small magnet in my drawer full of pinstock. it keeps the steel ones sorted for me :D

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:30 pm 
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Darksev wrote:
I know on most of the schrade lockbacks the pins in pivot are steel (there's a few rebuild's where I've mentioned that I think). I can't say the same for Buck, but once you get the pin out, just stick a magnet on it to see if it's steel or not. I actually keep a small magnet in my drawer full of pinstock. it keeps the steel ones sorted for me :D


So they are just regular steel or a low grade stainless? I know a magnet will not stick to good quality stainless.

I have seen LB8s that have a brass pivot pin, and they seem to hold up OK.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:15 pm 
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Years ago I replaced the pivot pin on my younger brother's Buck 110 using the shank of a broken drill bit. I guess it worked ok--he's still using it last I heard.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:44 pm 
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snorkel wrote:
So they are just regular steel or a low grade stainless? I know a magnet will not stick to good quality stainless.

I have seen LB8s that have a brass pivot pin, and they seem to hold up OK.



Generally stainless pinstock is high 300 or low 400 series stainless. The very low end stainless steels (200 series, low 300s) and the weird series (nitrogenated steels, which I have never ever seen used in cutlery) are nonmagnetic. Steels you may see in cutlery (BG42, CPMS30V, ZDP189, etc) are pretty much all going to be magnetic.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:16 am 
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Peening a stainless pin may be a problem if you get carried away, so I always use brass or nickel silver.
I have not had a failure on one.
Besides most of the Schrades have a steel shim around the pin as a spacer. The hole in the blade is quite a bit larger than he pin stock they used.
Don't loose it when you take them apart, or you will have to make one.

Dale

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