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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:49 am
Posts: 7
Really nice! That really gave a second life to a nice user.
Hope I get to put it to work.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 2:51 pm
Posts: 88
Location: Carrollton, GA
Darsev I'm always amazed how someone can take a knife and rework it into an amazing knife. You truly have a talent. The knife looks great!
I wish I had your skill.

Clint


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:10 am 
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Posts: 355
Location: Santa Ana, CA
Hey Adam,

Did you forget I wanted you to rehandle one of my Railsplitters like this one?

Canal Street Cutlery Canittler (canoe frame whittler) with D2 steel blades. Handles are done with African Blackwood and Nickel Silver, which was a nightmare to do. The end result was well worth it. Corresponding U file work.

Don Franklin


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CSC_Canittler.jpg
CSC_Canittler.jpg [ 111.14 KiB | Viewed 647 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 1:47 am 
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Location: NE Ohio
was just thinkin bout it the other day Don, I still haven't cut up that block of AB I bought back before my hand went to crap on me. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:20 pm 
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Location: Tucson AZ.
I think it would look and feel real good in my pocket!! ::tu::

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:04 pm 
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Posts: 63
Location: Nebraska
darksev, looks great! Thanks for the opportunity. Anxiously awaiting the end of the month!!


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:14 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:04 pm
Posts: 63
Location: Nebraska
Darksev, Can you explain how you go about putting a convex edge on a knife? Does this refer to just the edge of the blade near the cutting edge? What are the advantages of doing this? Can this be done on any blade? And have you ever done any cutting tests i.e. regular bevels vs. convex edge? sorry to bombard you with questions, just wondering. Mark


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 3:43 pm 
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Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon
I am not Adam, but maybe I can give you an answer until Adam gets here.

I use my 1" x 42" belt sander and use the slack belt above the platen and the top wheel.
It is about a 5-6 inch area of belt with no backing behind it. When I push on it it it flexes in ward and wraps slightly around the edge I am sharpening, thus making the edge convex.

Perhaps Adam can explain it better or has a different method.

I hope this helps,
Dale

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 6:43 pm 
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Location: Nebraska
Thanks for the response Orvet. Mark


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:00 pm 
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Good Day Knifer Friends!!! :D

Here is the final list of entrants...
(Goood Luck!!!)

1 Frank Evans
2 Navihawk
3 mlweg3
4 jbob120385
5 vperkins
6 jim12586
7 jugglover
8 mr.fred
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 3:22 am 
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Location: NE Ohio
holy smokes, that's alot of folks :)

With regards to your question Mark, I used a magazine and some 600-800-1500 sandpaper. with the right pressure the magazine (I've seen guys do it with a mousepad as well) will "dent" a bit and allow you to get the edge you want. After that I use some leather I had left over from a sheath loaded with some red compound. Same effect (basically stropping, but using that little bit of give leather has to fine tune the edge). I don't trust myself nearly as much with a grinder as Dale does :D

It's something I've been playing around with. I appreciate that a convex edge is technically the strongest edge you can give a blade, as the most metal is supporting your cutting area. In practice (I have a few other knives I've tried it on) it seems to cut reasonably well for everyday stuff (better at push cutting than slicing, but it does both) and all it takes to get it sharp again is a few passes on the leather or some high grit paper.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 5:14 pm 
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Location: Illinois
Lotto number was 251.

glenn nailed it! Congratulations, Sir ::tu::

Email inbound.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 5:24 pm 
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Location: Kentucky (Wildcat Country)
Congratulations Glenn. ::ds:: ::ds::

Couldn't have been won by a nicer guy. ::tu::



Phil

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They're about who we are and the people we've known.


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