All About Pocket Knives

Here's one that I saw on ebay today - I also saw another similar one but can't finde it right now.

Vintage bone 4.25" knife with pliers at end knife NR seller: sportcolbs
(Mar 18, 201020:45:50 PDT)

Check in the tutorials - Dale (orvet) has step by step instructions, with pictures. That's how I learned to do it. It sure saves a lot of ruined knives by the "trial and error" methods. I've used tutorials by several regular AAPK contributors and I've printed them in a binder that I can re...

I was able to get some spring material for the Buck 110 from Kaleb (muskratmanknives@gmail.com). If he doesn't have any, he'll know where to get it.

I bought the buffer Baldor new on ebay a couple of years ago, after saving for a year. The next week, I found the other one, on a stand, with 3 new burnishing wheelsand 2 buffing wheels, for $20.00 at a garage sale! You're right, they are the best tools in the shop. I also bought the Kalamazoo 2X48 ...

I also use the Birchwood Casey product. It's aggressive on the grime and gentle on the wood and steel. I have special tools to clean knives, but a fine scotchbrite pad cut into little pieces and a dental pick will work for most knives. I also buy the cotton rounds in the makeup section of WalMart an...

Thanks! I'll go to their site today and see what I can find.

Does anyone out there have a source for shields for pocket knives. I have many Old Timers, and etc. that are complete except for the shield. It seems that when I buy parts knives, the shield is the main item missing. (other than the worn out master blade). Is there a source for some of the basic sha...

I'm kind of a nut about organization. I mess up the shop while I'm working in it, but before I leave, it's cleaned and everything is put back in it's place. I don't have much time to work in the shop, so everything has to be in it's place so I don't waste time looking for what I need in the short ti...

Thanks. I have the tools, but developing the skills, while working full time selling heavy equipment, is the problem. I've got enough project knives to keep me well into retirement, if that ever happens in this economy. I learn a lot from the tutorials on AAPK and reading everyone's shop tips. I loo...

Here's a few more pics.

You guys inspire me! I don't have much space ( basically a converted utility room) but I stack a lot of equipment in it. I have most of my machines mounted on blocks so I can move them to my main workbench as needed. I also am posting a couple of pictures os some of the tools I use, a couple of Stid...

I got a great Stiddy from Dale, but I found another one made on the specs found in Ben Kelly's book. I paid $185.00 plus shipping for it ($205.00 total) Here's the guy that had a machinist make a batch of 20. There's a feature article on this anvil, with pictures, in Knife World mag. about 3 or 4 is...

Thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for.

I've been using cheap engraver to mark my repaired or customized knives (inside the liner) but I'm ready to take the plunge and get a good stamp made so I can also mark knives I make. Does anyone out there have a good source?

Thanks for your willingness to share and the effort you put into it. I really learn a lot from your tutorials. I have a master binder above my workbench where I keep all of the AAPK repair tutorials so I can review them as I work on different kinds of knives. Great Job!

Great tutorial, I really needed to see a couple of the steps you take. Thanks for your help! By the way, the Cutler's Stiddy I got from you works great and is a huge timesaver.

If you separate them by brand and take pictures of each group with 3 shots: Blades Open (front and back) and close up of tang stamp (Shrade USA 840T for example) Then the bidder can see what he's getting and will offer the best prices. If you put them on ebay, make sure and have accurate description...

A picture tutorial or video on reassembly of a Buck 110, Schrade LB7 etc. would really help me out. I also could use the same for reassembly of any pocket knife - peening pins and etc.

I use a 1" X 30" Delta for most of my pocket knife sharpening - It gets the first grind OK if you have a steady hand. I have a Kalamazo 2" X 48" for the heavy work. I have a couple of the small 3" buffers from Harbor Freight for light benchtop work with Scotchbrite wheels an...

What do you guys use for the round pin or spring? inside a Buck 110 lockback, a Schrade 6OT, and similiar knives? I've got about a dozen to fix that need new ones. I hope this is clear enough, I don't know the proper term, but is is the short round or flat pin that makes the lockback spring back int...

Thanks for the help on this. I'm going to try a few next weekend. It's a relief that I don't have to fill the bolsters. This is a great forum and I appreciate everyone's comments!

Thanks for the info. When you change from a Swinden Key to standard Pin, do you have to fill the bolsters and holes? If so, do you just do this with solder or what? I've done a couple that way, but I'm having trouble centering the hole correctly so that everything fits perfect. As soon as I figure o...

For cleaning up an old rusted knife, I use a fine scotchbrite burnishing wheel on my baldor buffer. The tangs can be cleaned up eaisly with a dremel tool and scotchbrite wheels (available from any jewelry supply - I buy them 10-30 at a time on ebay) As I do a lot of these, the dremel tool, with vari...

I always have my Chris Reeve LH Small Sebenza on me and a small Al Mar folder in the left pocket and a Swiss Army Money Clip knife in the right. Then there is usually a Cold Steel Medium Voyager clipped to my right pocket and often a Leatherman XTI on my belt - wow, seeing this in writing makes me l...

The tang is stamped Ulster over USA and the handles are dark brown jigged (plastic or bone) I have plenty of pictures on my computer, but don't know how to attach them to this site. In any event, I'll probably put it and another Ulster USA Scout knife on ebay this Saturday. Check it out. I'm knives4...